Valve noise

What does it mean if I can not hear any valve noise when the engine is cold but when the engine is hot I can hear some ticking, which sounds like loose valves. Any ideas?
81 911 SC

Could be Low Oil Pressure...
Are you sure it is Valve noise ??

Joe A

sounds like valve noise. low oil pressure is a possibility. sounds like tick, tick, tick,
etc...

Pre 3.6L 911s have solid lifters you will always hear valve noise
I'd worry more if you don't hear anything as that would mean they are too tight which can cause a burned valve or to the extreme a piston hitting a valve

I suspect a couple of 'loose' valve clearances are making the noise. You don't hear it as the engine is warming up because of the fast idle speed. If it is anywhere near an oil change time, go ahead and drain the oil, adjust the valves after the engine has cooled down, but before you refill the oil, do all of the regular mintenance items in your owner's manual, including the gear oil in the transaxle!

I assume you are a relatively 'new' 911 owner, and have never adjusted your valves before. It is a relatively straightforward procedure, philosophically the same as adjusting valves on a VW Beetle or Bus! If your oil is nowhere near a required change jack up one side at least 8-9" higher than the other, and do all the valves on that side, then jack up the other, and do that side. Exhaust valve covers are normally 'under oil' when the engine is off!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 05-19-2000).]

I actually attempted to adjust my valves. I started on the opposite side that I now hear ticking coming from. I got the valve covers off and have no idea how someone can get the feeler gauge between the adjuster and the valve stem. I could not even see where the gauge is supposed to go. Is it a "blind" procedure or am I missing something? Please advise

There is a special tool, a heavy brass 'handle' with a very-short section of 0.004" feeler gauge at just the right angle ... avilable from many sources, including Pelican. A dial indicator can also be used, either with a magnetic base, or a special holder designed just for 911 valve adjustments. All it takes is practice to get the 'feel' for where yours hands go to get at intakes for cylinders 2, 3, 5, and 6. There is a Pelican tech. article on valve adjustment with pictures that you may want to look at carefully. One thing that is very important is not to use an open end wrench to loosen or tighten the nuts on the rocker arms! A flex-handle socket or box-end wrench MUST be used on that shallow nut! A box-end wrench is ideal, since a slotted screwdriver can still access the swivel-foot adjuster. If you find any nuts that have been damaged or partially rounded by a previous inept 'wrench,' it should be replaced, as it will be difficult to properly adjust and tighten. I found two rounded, damaged nuts on my car when I did the first valve adjustment, and have kept spare nuts on hand ever since!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren and others,

What is the diameter of the lock nuts on the rocker arms (the ones that should be loosened with a box wrench)?

I am prepping for my first valve adjustment, and would like to confirm that I have the right tools before beginning.

Thanks,
Roger

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'85 Carrera 3.2 coupe
Guards Red/Black Leather
http://www.rogerplacer.net/911/

It is a 13 mm jam nut, low profile, and that is why it is critical, and susceptible to damage! The noise heard after warming up can also be caused from worn swivel-foot adjusters, though that is usually in high-mileage cars, which is most of the air-cooled cars, since none have been made in over 11 years, now!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

I won't belabor this point, but I have used the 'feeler gauge' method of VWs and I now use the dial indicator method to adjust the 911 VAlves. I have a very hard time using the feeler gauge, particular on the 911. In a recent thread I described the dial indicator method and the special tool ($30). the magnetic base did not work well for me.

At the autocross event yesterday, a guy quit early because of a very, very noticeable valve lash noise. He swears it was adjusted just a couple thousand miles ago and was fine until yesterday. I hope his car is alright.

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'83 SC

Thanks for the response. If anyone on the list has adjusted the valves on a 3.2, I would love to hear from them regarding the following:

What needs to be removed to gain access to all of the valves? Did you remove the catalytic converter or other exhaust parts to access exhaust valves 1-3? How about the intakes - can you get away with just taking the air box cover and filter out, or do you have to remove a larger part of the assembly?

Please be very specific, including removal instructions! The devil is in the details, as we all know. I've done engine oil, tranny oil, shift linkage, and shifter cup bushing replacement thanks to this list. Valves are my next challenge (a whopping #3 on the Pelican difficulty scale).

Thanks,
Roger

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'85 Carrera 3.2 coupe
Guards Red/Black Leather
http://www.rogerplacer.net/911/

You guys, I went in and adjusted the valves on my 81 911 this weekend. No problem, just get in there and do it, stop thinking about it; it's simple. No, the catalytic does not have to be removed. Just be patient and get the clearance right.

Thanks for the advice! I guess I really should just stop thinking about it. I usually get my best work done that way anyway... ;-)

No, but really. I am not afraid of the valve job itself, but I worry about things like "swinging the AC compressor out of the way" and similar tasks that are glibly dismissed as trivial, both here and on Rennlist.

In my experience, it is frequently the ancillary tasks that get the least attention, and end up buggering the job the most!

Well, if you get a canvas tarp, and fold it over a couple of times to make four layers of protection for your rear sheet metal and paint, there will be a lot less danger involved in 'swinging the A/C compressor out of the way' ... good luck!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa