voltmeter options
 

I've read the various posts on the variety of ways voltmeters have been installed in our cars.

I am thinking of placing a voltmeter in the place normally occupied by the clock. Being a stickler for detail, I would like to go with VDO, using a black face , white numbers and red pointers. I've come across three units...see here as a comparison view from the Summit catalogue--->

http://store.summitracing.com/Compare.asp?Dn=115&Ntt=digital+voltmeter&N=700+0&r sview=sku&Nao=80&Nu=P%5FSKU&Ns=P%5FRank%7C0&Ntk=Ke ywordSearch&RemoveSKU=ATM-1491

Some questions from those who've BTDT....

- why not use a 2 5/8" ( 66 mm ) dia gauge instead of the normal 2 1/16" ( 52 mm)?
- I favor the "Vision" series since it has the "look" that matches the other car gauges better, but it also has a lit pointer and backlit face..something our OEM dials don't have. It does..however, come with a set of filters to allow white, green or red numbers. If too bright, couldn't the filter be used ( or made up "smoked") to better match the other gauges?
- how would a digital unit work? I think it might even be a little easier to wire since there wouldn't be (?) separate power leads ( switched power) and lighting leads...right? Also...wouldn't the decimal fraction be good resolution, too? ( more important than seeing rate of change of numbers?).
- the other two versions shown are the small and large versions of the older Cockpit style, presumably w/o backlighting or the lit pointers.

Any advice an any of these three ...or the digital alternative??

- WilSmileWavy :confused:

Link at Summit didn't work.

Personally I would punt the digital one if you are going for a matching look.
As for the brightness, you can swap the 5watt bulb it comes with and use a 3 watter instead it will tone it down a little bit. Wire it with the cars interior reostat and you can control it with the rest of the gauges.
I have the VDO's in my BMW and I like them. I went with the red bulb condom to match the rest of the gauges in the car, however in the Porsche it will look diff. at night. The numbers on the alt gauge will light up red as well as the pointer. The rest will be white numbered.
I used the little red bulb condoms in the back lights of all the gauges in the Porsche and the numbers are red at night.I find it easier to look at without having to be bright. If you went that route your alt. gauge/clock replacement will look as close as it can.
I sometimes wonder why that gauge was omitted from our cars?

hmmm... works for me when I go back to this thread .

Maybe this ? --> http://store.summitracing.com/Compare.asp?Dn=115&Ntt=digital+voltmeter&N=700+0&r sview=sku&Nao=80&Nu=P%5FSKU&Ns=P%5FRank%7C0&Ntk=Ke ywordSearch&RemoveSKU=ATM-1491

Wil

If anyone is still with me on this...the three model numbers are:

VDO-332103 ( Vision)
VDO-332041 and 332601 ( small and large cockpit)

- Wil

I have a digital in my car and after living with it for years would never go back to anything else. It tells you what is going on with your generator and electrical system far better than the idiot lights every will.

Didn't replace my clock. Just moved my hazard switch:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159963066.jpg

OK rs6er...let's take your unit as an example...no matter where it's located.

Is it the 2 1/16" ( 52mm) "Cockpit", model 332-041...or the 2 5/8" ( 66mm) "Pro-Cockpit", model 332-601 ??

How is the lighting? Is it "perimeter" lighting much like the OEM setup?. Or.....does the entire gauge face light up with strong backlighting, like the "Vision" model apparently does?

Let's see if this might work --->

cockpit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=VDO%2D332041&N=70 0+115&autoview=sku

pro-cockpit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=VDO%2D332601&N=70 0+115&autoview=sku

Vision:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=VDO%2D332103&N=70 0+115&autoview=sku

- Wil

I sent my clock...which wasn't working..to No Ho and had them put a 21/6" volt meter in that housing. I didn't like the look so bought a new/refurb clock. I think I still have that unit which I can sell you if you want...price to be agreed upon.

Later I sent them my fuel/oil level gauge and had them replace the oil level (which is basically useless) with a volt meter and it looks like it was always there. Not cheap but very cool looking and I like having a voltmeter to keep tabs on that function.

Email me if interested in the one I have....I think ;-)

that clock hole is worthy of 3 or 4 in 1 custom gauges imo.

Westach sic does nice custom aircraft gauges

I don't know what model it is since I put in over 15 years ago. I believe it is 52mm (you can see its size relative to the ignition switch cover). I will say that it very nicely matches the look of the other guages, in appearance and lighting. The needle is the same color as is the bezel. It is the only guage that has green on it, but I think it still looks very OEM. I can't take a picture of it illuminated because my battery is out of the car right now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159970065.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159970087.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159970128.jpg

Mark:

Thanks for the offer...but I'll pass...

A nice unit for the clock position is the identically-sized fuel level/ oil level gauge....as mentioned. This can be done up as a voltmeter and something else ( trans temp?)...but recent quotes from NHS left me breathless ( $350 + customer supplied core + misc. refurb).

I'd like to pursue answers to how these units ( I list) light up....I can work-around possible "extra" brightness vs the rest of the gauges..but it might look funny to have ONE backlit gauge and the rest perimeter-lit. If the cockpit is perimeter-lit...that might sway me.

Also, the size issue. Either size cockpit ( or even the vision) will require a black "surround" made of plastic or such. Any problems with the larger 2 5/8" unit..or will the threaded collar or rear attachment pose a more difficuly install because it's now closer to OEM diameter ???

As I said...I'd like to flush out some of these details before proceeding....don't want to find an ..."Oh S*&t " ...after purchase !!

- Wil

John..it seems we just posted at the same time...

John...thanks for the extra pics...I think you have the small Cockpit model ( relating to the Summit pics...note how the 14 and 16 numbers are a bit crowded on the Cockpit..and yours... compared to the Pro-Cockpit). Thanks for sharing how it lights up...that might be the "match" I'm looking for.

I guess the only question remaining is the size...the larger Pro-Cockpit more closely matches the OEM clock size, but still is smaller and will require a small collar. I hope the rear-mounting doesn't interfere with anything for this larger size...

Getting closer !! ....

- Wil

Will,
No problem....I didn't like the look either.

Yes, NOHO is pricey but I wanted a factory look on my SC so I spent the $$ A combo in the clock is the ticket if you don't want a clock. I considered the same as you...trans temp or CHT. CHT should be each side though. Trans temp is really not nec. in a street toy.

Which digital gauge do you have?

rs6er, is it possible for the non-electrically inclined in the group (me) to install that gauge? Are the instructions detailed? (Yes, I know I'm a dope.)

Are you using two VDO CHT gauges (one for each bank) or one dual Westach gauge?

It was pretty simple. As I am in Westchester too, I could certainly help you.

I'm not using a CHT gauge at all. I replaced the clock and added the voltmeter to the fuel gauge instead of the oil level. Looks factory.

Drdogface

You are way ahead of me. Replacing the worthless oil level with the meter is what I have been considering.

Can you post picture?

Would you mind PM me with the details and cost. I am closer to Palo Alto Speedo and would compare with them.

Thanks

Wil...If you can look past the glare you can see where I mounted my gauge. I used the smaller cockpit model. Mounted in the console, looks like it belongs. The lighting is dim enough to look OEM. I tied the lamp to the heater lever light at the base of the console/handbrake. The gauge drops in the panel hole from the front and is held in place by a plastic screw on sleave that attaches from the back. Someone posted a picture awhile back of two VDO gauges mounted side by side in the console. I recall the trick was to file flat spots in the bezels so that the gauges could be mounted close.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1159975320.jpg