Doug,
this is a great solution... in the pic you posted your missing the washer at the bottom of the tranny mount, or at least I have one there.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1171979104.jpg

Also... what the heck is up with your car?? Did you get the motor taken care of and what was the problem? SmileWavy

That is what I am using and it works very well. Is not cheap but very well made.

The Timmins cables I have seen were crap. May have gotten better in the last few years but the last thing I want is to take a chance on the throttle cable sticking wide open and ruining an engine because of it.

Herman,
You are right!
I need to add the washers.

Thank you,

Doug

PS - on a side note, I'm close to a heat solution worked out with Ben M (M&K). He's doing a bit of Aluminum fab work for me and sending me some bulk flex hose. It will use only one Heat Exchanger, but that should be more than fine for me. This will be simple, clean and at least provide me defrost.

Throttle Linkage
 

All of that is well and good. My '75 race car has an even simpler solution. From the gas pedal all the way back to the swing plate on the engine block, it is all 911. So all I have to woory about is how to attach the rod to the throttle body.

What the car's builder did was weld a small ball to the 993 throttle body, shown in these pictures.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1171991351.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1171991388.jpg

Works very well. Also works with the 80 mm Ford throttle body I installed last year.

Simple. Works.

I can take pictures of the entire setup if you need them. I think if you can weld, this is a $5 solution. Actually, you don't even need to weld it on, you can screw it on as well.

I just completed my throttle setup, based on Ingo's info. All I had to do is cut off about 12" of the outer mantle and it was the right length. I made the stand off with a brass plumbing reducer and a barbed fitting with an OD almost the same as the ID of the adjuster on the 964 cable.
I got the cable for the doner car and the other stuff was in my plumbing bin.

Only question I have is that the throttle spring seems like its going to be weak. Is there just 1 on a 964?

Bill, I only have one spring on my 964 that is integrated into the throttle mechanism. It is strong enough to pull the throttle shut all the way and engage the idle microswitch. Maybe you need to lube the mechanism a little bit.

MikeZ uses the Timmens setup. He had to put in an additional spring to make the throttle close all the way.....

It works fine, I just wonder what it will feel like under my foot!
I'm almost there my freind!

Hey Ingo, thanks for swinging by - any thoughts on the above?

I've been using the Timmins setup for 5 years without a glitch. Many track days.

Has anyone heard of his engines blowing up because of a stuck throttle? The way it's setup, I just can't see how that could happen.

I think RHD and LHD are the same - no reason for a difference since the cable goes through the center tunnel. As far as 964 and 993 they are the same for sure.

Good luck,
Ingo

Here is a picture of the 964 and the SC cables at the point where they enter the tub.
Sorry my picture is bad. Having problems with the focus on my camera.

The front ends of both have the same threaded connection onto the part that snaps on the ball on the lever.

The black part on the 964 cable can adjust about 1" and some moer ajustment is avalible (if needed) by bending the stop on the engine side.

Someone posted a picture of the throttle end before.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1172518425.jpg

I found a few more pictures
Here's the adapter by itself

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1172519636.jpg

Nice work Bill. I simply punched a plastic reducer into the tunnel to work as stand-off on my setup . At the time I was kind of on the last legs of my project and really anxious to get it going. Today, if I had to do it again I would probably try to source a piece of the tube on from a 964 and weld it in properly. But oh well, you know how this goes - at some point you need to start to cut corners if you want to get the car on the road....

Cheers and keep us posted on progress,
Ingo

Thanks William and Ingo - I have ordered the cable and I will see where it gets me.

Here's another picture I found of the cable entering the tunnel flange.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1172591893.jpg

Can you post some pictures of the cable when you get it?
I wonder what comes with it.

To strip the outer layer I first used a utility knife on the black plastic, then used the dremel to cut the stranded wire at the new location, then unpeeled the inner metal jacket and cut it at the new location.
Pictures of this process would be good for the thread.
Hope the cable comes soon!

Ok guys I have the cable and it now makes more sense. I have fitted the cable to the throttle and fed things forward so I'm at the point that I need to decide how much to cut off.....!

I think it needs to be fairly accurate, cut too much off and you will have too much slack running forwards, too little and the cable wont reach the pedal.

How did you guys judge this - I have layed the cable out under the car to roughly where it needs to be and marked it but this seems a little hit or miss, would it be best to feed it all into the tunnel then measure from there?

Also did you guys build in some adjustment anywhere other then the very front mount where it connects to the pedal?

Thanks again in advance for your help - off to raid B & Q for brass fittings :-)

Throttle for 3.6 or 3.8 in earlier car
 

Looks like you are on your way with a cable solution, so my approach may not be relevant to you, but may help others searching and discovering this thread.

My approach uses stock linkage all the way to the plate that is mounted to the 3.6 case. The plate is from an earlier 911, and bolts right onto the case. Then I run a rod between that plate and the throttle body. So you have to add a ball to the throttle body as I mentioned earlier. PMO sells these for a few bucks. So really, all you need to do is add a <$5 ball and find a throttle linkage rod with the correct length, which you can probably find at a Porsche dismantler.

Some special things on my car not needed for most conversions...

I am running Haltech, and a 993 intake manifold. I want the intake window to work and so I use an RPM switch to control it. To mimic the logic of the factory CPU, I need a switch for ~67% throttle, so you can see I have mounted a magnetic switch to the plate for that. A car with the factory computer would not need that, as the stock throttle body will have all of the microswitches you need.

I also have a BBK 80 mm throttle body for more power, so that is a little different from what you'd need with a typcial 3.6 conversion. Since I have the big throttle body, and no idle stabilizer stuff, I strapped the intake manifold to the case so that it doesn't move as much and this improved my idle sufficient for a race car. You can see one of the straps in the pics below.

Also, the BBK has a rather weak spring, so I added one for better response. The stock 993 throttle has a nice strong spring.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173820188.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1173820225.jpg

jevvy,
In my first picture above, I had the SC throttle rod and the 964 cable lined up side by side. The pedal ball ends clamped to a workbench so they were even. The other ends streached out. You can see where the SC rod enters the tunnel by the position of the rubber boot.
This is the approximate length considering what your using between the outter seith of the cable and the tunnel. Mine came from a doner car and it has this nice adjuster at that spot. The adjuster is black plastic and can take up to about 1" of slack.

I installed the engine about a week ago and it all works great.

Mike, I love your setup and wish I thought of it or saw it before I got as far as I did.

jevvy, you will find that running the limp 964 cable thru the tunnel is a pain. There are 2 or 3 plastic bushings that it needs to be threaded thru. Luckily I did this when the seats were already out. I removed the shifter housing and the e-brake. With these out of the way I could pretty much feed the cable with my hands.

Excellent, I never thought about working back from the front using the ild rod on a bench - sounds perfect.

I was thinking I might slide a length of tube forwards over the rod before a remove it then I can use that to feed the new throttle cable through upto the pedal - might even leave the tube in place to protect the cable as Ingo suggests above.

Thanks for the help