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How To Convert Throttle Linkage on 3.6 Transplants?
How do guys do the throttle set-up on earlier cars when a 3.6 is tranplanted??
I have a Hot-Rod 3.4 with the plastic 3.6 intake. My ('85 Targa) has hard linkage from the foot pedal all the way to the engine. I need to use either a cable set-up from the foot pedal back or some other known solution. So I need the same deal as the 3.6 transplant guys. Advice please Thanks |
Throttle cable by Patrick Motorsports is what I have seen.
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Asphalt,
I've got a great solution for you. Buy a generic hot rod throttle cable (36" is the right length, I think). $40 for a nice braided stainless one from Summitracing: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LOK%2DTC%2D1000HT 36&N=700+%2D104640+115&autoview=sku You need to add 3/4" to one of the bellcrank lever arms on the 915 tranny. (That changes the leverage between the pedal and the throttle plate.) And you need to buy a clevis pin (I bought one from ACE Hardware) and cut it off to fit into the clip on the factory throttle pull. I'll post pictures shortly. If you cannot weld and don't have a local resource, you could send the bellcrank to me and I'd modify it. Doug |
It is necessary to fab this bracket (black, seen best in the middle picture) which holds the end of the cable at the transmission, as well. You could easily use 1" x 1/8" steel bent to shape. Worst case, you could send it and a gusset and I'd weld in the gusset to strengthen it.
I used sheet metal and welded the gussets in place. The throttle kit comes with the ball and socket you see attached to the modified bellcrank. Note, the lengthened bellcrank arm is the one attached to the throttle cable. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160171085.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160171114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160171137.jpg |
Doug - So you keep the OE throttle rod /linkage from the pedal assy all the way back to the trans bell crank and run a cable from there?
I have extensive fabrication / welding experience |
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I did have to reset the throttle stop so I wouldn't bend anything when I hammer the gas pedal. I'm hunting for a pic on the throttle body side. The throttle cable has a ball at the end that you pull against. I have a hole through the clevis pin (about 1/4" in diameter) which sits against the ball and rotates within the factory clip on the throttle body arm. Does that make sense? I will measure that the cable is 36", also. If you buy oversized, you can trim the cable and trim the housing, as necessary. Mine requried zero trimming. $40, some welding and a bit of fab and it looks factory. |
BTW - the arms on the bell crank retain the same angular reference to one another. Only the length on the one was increased.
Doug |
Found a beautiful picture of it:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160171802.jpg
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lay a string from the bellcrank up to the zinc plated bracket that you see above and you will have the right length - leave it loose.
Finally, I zip tied the cable housing to the top of the tranny breather to make sure it didn't wrap around the axle. Doug |
Doug thanks for all the detailed info and pics. I just may do it this way. It looks like the simplest way to go.
Anyone else do something different? |
Why so complicated. Use a stock 964/993 throttle cable, shorten the outer mantle, fabricate a shand-off at the tunnel exit and you are done. It woks much nicer than the old-fashioned linkage.
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Cheers |
Bump
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Jevvy-
I also have the Timmons setup. My mechanic has told me that it may indeed fail some day. He suggested the Patrick Motorsports throttle cable as suggested earlier. |
OK, I'll try to give some more details of the throttle cable setup I use.
The 964 cable is a bare steel cable that has the ball-pan connecting it to the pedal pivot point in the tunnel close to the pedal. The other end connects to the throttle body on the engine. The outer mantle running from the tunnel exit to the engine is made from rigid steel wires wrapped in black plastic sheeting. I used a 1/4 inch teflon tube in the tunnel to route the steel cable. It makes sure the cable does not interfer with the shift linkage. The outer mantle of the 964 cable runs from the tunnel to the metal flange on the engine. It is a bit longer due to the shorter tunnel in 964/993 cars. I shortened it by cutting the plastic part with a sharp knife and using a triangular metal file to cut the steel wires. Once you have the right length you need to fabricate a stand-off at the tunnel exit. You can use a large washer welded onto the exit or a piece of steel tube. Since I had no access to a welder at the time I used a PVC reduction piece from an irigation system jammed into the tunnel exit. The benefits of the 964 setup are that it does not use any linkage parts in the tunnel. There is not binding or dead play at all and you have a perfect pedal feel with no parasitic forces. I have seen the early Timmens setups and they reminded me of cheap bicylce break parts from the early 70's. The Patric cable is nothing else but a modified 964 cable. I just didn't feel like droping a lot of cash so I did it myself from a used cable. Once I get back from Asia (business travel) I'll snap some pictures. The engine is currently out for some R&R so it's a good time. Cheers, Ingo (in Tokyo) |
Jay, thanks for mentioning your Mechanics comments - seems my concerns are shared by a few.
Hey Ingo, thanks for the explanation - I think it makes sense but of course pictures would help, I will try to find a 964 cable while I wait for your pics. Hope you are having fun in Tokyo, my mrs used to go there a lot and I seem to remember her mentioning having lots of fun in a club called "dump truck" and that Shibuya and Shinjuki are nice places to eat and shop. |
Guys,
How close is my setup to Timmons? I'm very confident in this setup not breaking, but simple is usually better. I replaced the ball and sockets when I put this together, too. The mechanism is very tight and responsive. Thanks, Doug |
Doug
Your setup uses the same principle as the Timmins one however you have used far superior materials, If I was going to just re-do mine I would do it like you have but I'm gona look at alternatives before I do. FWIW my timmins stuff has done great for the 10k miles I have done since the conversion and cant really fault it however I'm sure there is a better longer lasting solution available its just im not bright enough to think of it myself! |
Hey Ingo(and others)
I have tracked down a cheap throttle cable and wondered if any of you might be able to tell me if it will be of use on my LHD 3.2-3.6 conversion. The part I have found is 993.423.024.03. For an early 993 RHD. Since I dont know how the front end hooks up I dont know if the LHD/RHD difference is a problem or whether the 993 one is the same as the 964 mentioned above. FWIW my engine is a 993 non-vram. Hope someone can help - pics of the connections used would also be awesome. |
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