TOTAL RESULT- nearly

I have finally solved my ongoing and extraordinarily frustrating motor problems, and am rather excited at last. Obvious with hindsight, but what isn't? I still have to repair the ailment, which is where you guys can hopefully help.

Symptoms:

*Engine miss at 2800-3000. 'Cured' by playing with just about everything, especially lots of time dedicated to the MFI. (learnt lots regardless).

*Hideous fuel consumption- lots of raw fuel blowing from exhaust.

*clacking noise coming from left side of engine. Set valves too many times to count. Still no change.

*odd pattern of wear on rotor arm. (only realised how important when I had discovered the problem). It was worn only on the top face and the cap 'terminals'were worn only on their extreme lower edges..

*Gradually loosing power, but put it down to getting used to the car, as we all do?

I'd checked the Dizzy lots of times before, but hadn't pulled it out. Checked points, vacuum advance, shaft wobble (side to side).

Last night I isolated the noise and it seemed to be coming from the Distributor area, so I pulled it down and found the culprit.
One advance spring had come adrift (hence the 3000rpm miss?), but the cause is verical movement in the shaft itself (up and down)having dislodged it. When you move it manually the noise is like the noise I heard when the motor was running.

So now I need to fix it- the easy bit!
If you look at the base of the dizzy there is the gear, pinned to the shaft. Next from the bottom up is a smaller steel washer, a 0.5mm fibre washer, then another wider but still thin steel washer. Then I have a gap of around 3-4mm of shaft- and movement- before the dizzy itself starts. Looking inside, the base plate for the centrifugal weights has been cutting into the base of the dizzy body- shavings of aluminum and bronze bushing contaminate the housing. There appears to be the remnants of a fibre washer, about 0.5mm thick, but there's only a tiny portion so It's difficult to tell.
I figure the repair would be to machine up a bushing of whatever was supposed to be there, plus a spacer to compensate for the dizzy body wear. Accurately machining this will not be a problem as I have access to all the right CNC mills and lathes.
What I need to know is the best way to get the pin out of the gear, and what to replace it with. Then I need to know the clearance between the gear and body in a properly specced dizzy , and lastly what the packing material is inside the body between the base plate and body itself.
The shaft bushing is good so can stay. I have no desire whatsoever to take it to a reco shop or buy a new one, believe me.

Anyone done this? Can anyone help?