Newbie oil change mistake.

billroth · billroth's Garage

I did my very first oil change today and boy do I feel proud and manly. Saved $100, only took me 2 hours. Wife is semi-understanding of how I spent my Sunday afternoon.

Jacked up the left rear to make it easier to get at the engine case plug.

One tip for uber-newbies like me. I had some fancy air tools that I got cheap. Can't use 'em to take off the engine case plug. Jams up against the heat exchanger as the drain plug comes outand almost couldn't get the bloody air rachet off the car!

Ready to try a brake fluid flush next! I wonder what new mistakes I can make.

Lawrence

Por_sha911 · Por_sha911's Garage

Congrats. Working on your car is a bonding experience that makes the driving that much sweeter.

Jim Sims · 10-15-2006, 02:33 PM

If using a pressure bleeder, pumping brake fluid out the reservoir vent onto the ground because you didn't plug the vent.

If using press the pedal method, stroking the MC seals into a dirty, rusty section of the bore where the seals become damaged and subsequently leak.

Both methods, breaking off or rounding off the flats on a frozen bleeder valve.

rattlsnak · rattlsnak's Garage

air rachet on oil drain plug?? uh oh....

john70t · 10-15-2006, 03:08 PM

Check oil level when running.
Very little anti-seize on lugnuts(curved section) and use hand torque wrench.
Learn jack points and use wood block.
Only anti-seize used on the plugs should be Locktight Graphite 50 (high conductive).

Zeke · 10-15-2006, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by billroth
I wonder what new mistakes I can make.

We all make mistakes. I just did the stupid brake fluid-on-the-ground trick a week ago forgetting the overflow tube like an idiot. Lost a good part of a quart of ATE Blue. ($$$!!!) I need to put the clamp on the Motive handle with tape to remind me.

Don't use air tools as a novice, is all I can advise. You can't feel what you need to feel as you remove and tighten various fasteners and plugs. Air tools are for working on trailers, AFAIC. Or Chevy V8's. (I've had/have both)

billroth · billroth's Garage

Thankfully the tools don't have much torque. Just faster. I used a regular rachet to "crack" it. I know better for next time.

Lawrence

LakeCleElum · 10-15-2006, 08:27 PM

I patted myself on the back after my 1st oil change....Kept patting until I drove it and put oil all over my garage floor......

Super_Dave_D · Super_Dave_D's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by milt
We all make mistakes. I just did the stupid brake fluid-on-the-ground trick a week ago forgetting the overflow tube like an idiot. Lost a good part of a quart of ATE Blue. ($$$!!!) I need to put the clamp on the Motive handle with tape to remind me.

+1 - Isn’t it amazing how fast a quart can come through that little tube??

rnln · 10-15-2006, 09:01 PM

Me too, I will (plan to) do clutch/brake fluid bleeding next weekends.

911pcars · 10-15-2006, 10:39 PM

A 1/4" or 3/8" drive air ratchet is handy to have. I use the less awkward-to-handle 1/4" ratchet for most fasteners up to 13mm (head size) or so. Use manual force to break the fastener free - the small air ratchet doesn't create much torque anyway, then pull the trigger to spin the rest of it off. Saves much time iif you have several fasteners.

Save the air gun for rapid removal of fasteners.

When installing, start the threads by hand, use the ratchet to spin the fastener until it seats, then final tighten by hand.

Or take your time. Some find rotating nuts and bolts relaxing.

Sherwood

defcon65 · 10-16-2006, 10:37 AM

11-piece open/box end metric wrench set from Sears. Leather work gloves. Take your time. Once you get the spillage on a 911 oil-change below one quart, you're pretty much a pro.

billroth · billroth's Garage

I did pretty well on spillage until I tried to pour the old oil into the old jugs. Lost about half a litre (quart).

Lawrence

Dan in Pasadena · Dan in Pasadena's Garage

Not to get off track here, but what brand oil drain pan are most of you guys using? My tried-and-true Pep Boys black plastic one - the kind that acts as a reservoir to store the dirty oil until you take it to a recycling station - I don't think it has enough capacity. Isn't min capacity for a 911 without an external oil cooler like 12 or 13qts? i.e. 3+ gallons?

glenncof · 01:00 PM

billroth,

I hope you drained 'both' the engine and reservoir. Each has drain plug. Also wipe the little magnetic tips with a clean rag.

Use the Mahle OC-54 filter on the 1985 (I did not know that for awhile.)

I also did new brake pads/rotors. I did one wheel at a time, seating the brake pad after the flush (using clear jar and clear tube ~3feet). End of tube in jar must be cover with fluid as the process will suck some back in.

When you compress the caliper, the brake fluid backs into the brake reservoir. So be careful not to overflow it. That's why I do one wheel at a time.

Basically I pump and check, repeating until clean fluid is flowing in the tube. Then do one more push, I hold peddle down with a broom wedged to the seat and proceed to tighten bleed valve. This is when I go back and pump the peddle to seat a new pad.

I do the other side, same process. If new pad then they must be broken in (bedding) per mgf recommendation.

Also I have some plastic caliper I use to check rotor thickness. I never turn disc brake rotors but just replace them on second set of pads.

911pcars · 10-16-2006, 04:26 PM

"I did one wheel at a time, seating the brake pad after the flush (using clear jar and clear tube ~3feet). End of tube in jar must be cover with fluid as the process will suck some back in."

This is the procedure I suggest. However, instead of curving the tube into a jar, point the open end upward. If the tube is long enough, the end will be above the height of the MC reservoir and fluid won't overflow (liquid finds its own level). This creates an extension of the hydraulic system for that caliper. With the bleeder screw open, you can pump the brakes all you want (careful with pedal travel) and/or rap the caliper with a mallet to dislodge bubbles. Fluid will exit and enter the caliper with each pedal stroke, or just let it the system sit and wait for air bubbles to escape. If the tube becomes too full from working the pedal, point it down momentarily and empty the excess into a jar.

Sherwood

defcon65 · 10-17-2006, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan in Pasadena
Not to get off track here, but what brand oil drain pan are most of you guys using? My tried-and-true Pep Boys black plastic one - the kind that acts as a reservoir to store the dirty oil until you take it to a recycling station - I don't think it has enough capacity. Isn't min capacity for a 911 without an external oil cooler like 12 or 13qts? i.e. 3+ gallons?

I found a very large, flat shaped oil change reservoir/jug with a widemouth 10" funnel that screws into it for 15 bucks at a farm and fleet store. It will hold 15 quarts, more than enough for a 911 oil change. I still use a 5 gallon bucket for draining the tank, though - it just comes out too fast for the funnel to catch it all.

Ron.G · 10-17-2006, 11:40 AM

I cut down a five gallon bucket so that it fits under the oil tank.
Never spill a drop.

glenncof · 01:13 PM

I use Rubber Maid dish washing tubs, small and large for various oil drains. They also store the oil change tools/funnels. I hang on to 1 gal. plastics jugs and use them for recycling oil. My garbage company picks them up curbside if screw-on lid. I go to a recycle dump with filters and oil also.

BTW, don't let anyone tell you 3000 mile oil changes are bad for environment. Recycled oil gets refined and reused. What is bad is poorly maintained vehicles that don't live long lives and have higher pollution. Think about the energy consumed to make a vehicle.