clutch problem

bob thibodeuax · 10-21-2006, 06:58 PM

New Porche owner of 1972 911T. Brought to mechanic to have updated tensioners installed and new clutch. Mechanic kept car for 10 months (suppose to be good on Porches) and never had my car running. He installed the tensioners, clutch and reinstalled the engine, but did not get the car running. I towed the car home and began doing the work myself. However when I was adjusting the clutch the clutch lever would not move when I tried to pry with screw driver. Did not want to put too much pressure, scared to break something. Is there something he could have installed incorrect to prevent the clutch lever from operating? How can I check? Would hate to drop engine. Any help please.

Nine9six · Nine9six's Garage

Bob,
What work exactly, did you contract your mechanic to perform? Just the tensioners and clutch?
Did you tell him that the car did not run, and that you wanted him to diagnose, and rectify this problem as well?
FWIW, 10 months is an awful looooooooooong time to wait for tensioners and a clutch.

bob thibodeuax · 10-23-2006, 10:32 AM

I had the mechanic put in the tensioners, clutch and couple minor repairs. The car was running when I brought into sop and I had to have it towed from shop. The mechanic just put me off. I paid for parts only and no labor.
I need help on the clutch on how much I should be able to move the lever by hand. Also what could he have put in wrong?

vash · vash's Garage

i dont think the mechanic hooked the TO fork on the TO bearing.

(total guess on my part btw) but me and a friend did the same thing. sucky part is the motor will need to come out....again.

bob thibodeuax · 10-23-2006, 10:42 AM

The fork will not move in either direction.

Zeke · 10-23-2006, 11:51 AM

The fork should have some movement when not pulling on the throw out bearing, so no movement sounds bad. However, the mechanical advantage of the clutch pedal coupled with the fork is what does the work and it's reasonably difficult to move the pedal, let alone move the fork w/o the leverage of the pedal. At least take that in consideration while diagnosing what this idiot has done.

BTW, it's not all that hard to just remove the engine and tranny and start over checking things out while you can get all around the thing(s). This will force you to look at fuel ines, etc, to make your car safer and more reliable.

Get the 101 Projects book, a Haynes and maybe Wayne's engine rebuild book, just for reference. Actually, the Haynes has most of the engine stuff, Wayne just does a much more superb job.

Between the manuals and this forum, we'll get you sorted out in no time.

Jay Auskin · 10-23-2006, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bob thibodeuax
...However when I was adjusting the clutch the clutch lever would not move when I tried to pry with screw driver...

I don't think it would. What about when you hook up the cable? Does it move with the cable hooked up, and you push the clutch pedal?

bob thibodeuax · 10-24-2006, 07:13 AM

I have both the Hanyes manual and Waynes 101 Projects. I will hook up the cable tonight and let you know. Really appreciate the help from everyone.

jtfreels · 10-24-2006, 07:45 AM

I'm working a similar clutch/adjustment issue.
How much SHOULD the smaller lever move when you push the clutch pedal.
I know 101 says the cable end should move 25mm, which I'm not getting currently. The small arm does move but not enough to get reverse.
I'm rebuilding the pedal cluster now, the plastic bushing where the trunion goes was cracked and deformed.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

jtfreels:
Apples and oranges.
You have an '82 SC with the C-helper spring, Bob has a '72 ( NO C-SPRING!)
Rebuild your pedal cluster first, then make sure that the clutch cable sits correctly in the rear-tube in the tunnel. You'll need a light and feel for it to pop in. Follow the procedure in the book.

Bob t: Hope that the fork is engaged in the T-bearing groove. If not, the engine/transmission has to come out again. It means that the mechanic is not that good with Porsches and I would look closely at the tensioners too. Check the bill to see what clutch parts and tensioners he put in.

vash · vash's Garage

i think if the TO fork is between the TO bearing and pressure plate (in front) it would lock up in both directions.

T77911S · 10-24-2006, 10:00 AM

i just had the eng/tranny out of my 77. i could not move the arm (w/spring) with a screwdriver. had to loosen the nut on the cable , then have wife pull pedal up to remove cable from the arm.
it could still be the TO fork to bearing.
my concern was the 10mm screw adjustment on the arm?
if u take out the motor, u might want to put i dial Gage on the valves and check the cam timing. i just re-timed mine because the last idiot ( not present idiot) advanced the cams 15* and the car pinged under load. all is better now! also installed new oil thermostat, oil temp stays below 200!....so far, no really hot days yet.