Remove light for better cooling? Y/N ?

Deschodt · 06:48 PM

I need more airflow to the front cooler... Will removing the parking light below help any ? I plan to to duct the air from there somehow, has anybody done it and got good results ? Horrible whistle noise ? Anything ?

Is there anything that I would fry back there by opening it to the elements ? (sorry, I can't raise the car right now and take a look for myself, kinda stuck due to a garage situation)

Thanks !

PS: I am aware of the little air scoop thing that replaces the other element (turn signal on my car), don't like the looks of it... If this works I'd put some mesh there on both sides for symmetry !

MattAlpha · MattAlpha's Garage

Should work just fine. Just be careful with the flasher's wiring harness and the grounds so that the side marker will still work and you do get the dreaded fast blinking turn signals and hazards..

I've seen many people remove their passengerside headlight for the same type of effect (though they had to also drill holes in the headlight's hub) on the track and AXs. Not very practical for a DD.
-Matt

rouxroux · 10-30-2006, 03:14 AM

Hmmmm. I thought the lens you drew the arrow to WAS the turn signal...do you have them reversed? (at least, on both my '86's the OUTSIDE light is the "running light").

Deschodt · 10-30-2006, 05:39 AM

I thought someone might mention that - I think they are reversed on my car ! The ones with the arrow are definitely running lights and the corner ones turn signals on my car ! Funny... I suspected it was reversed because the scoop that pelican sells replaced what was the turn signal on my car and I thought that was unlikely for a company to sell something that replaced a turn signal (litigation and all) - but wasn't sure - works for my purpose though !

rouxroux · 10-30-2006, 05:58 AM

Greg, that's neat that yours are reversed! Heck yes, I'd do it just as you said...should help quite a bit (I run the scoops in the outside position on our '86's)...I'm not that well-versed in the lighting arrangements throughout the different years... Maybe someone else can tell me why this was done? I know the ROW models have the side repeater lights, maybe someone was trying to make the signals more visable in a US model?

Wil Ferch · 09:27 AM

I did something along these lines..sorry, no pics right now...let me explain.

I reversed the turn-signal and side marker lights. The T/S units have spades on the backside that "feed power" to the side markers..

Now....( stay with me on this..it gets goofy and maybe hard to follow), *normally* the side marker lights stay "lit" as parking lights or when the headlights are "on".... and the T/S...quite naturally...blink when called upon to do so....both with main headlights on or off. If you go to Dan Sterns web page you will find a way to make side marker lights blink ( see where this is going?). I made a small wiring harness/jumper that is placed inside the T/S housing, which mimics this wiring change, but is now totally inside the T/S housing ( totally reversible).

But....more....

I now discard the OEM "side marker" light ( that now faces forward because of their reversed locations)...since it uses up all the available front-facing open area to the cooler...and replace it with a smaller "button" light tucked-in on the far edge of the opening. I actually fabbed a sheet metal bracket , modded to use the Porsche Euro side marker light. Placed it on the "inner" edge of the forward-facing "hole". I then cut-fabbed a piece of rear deck grating as a mesh...and fitted it to ( on one side, with a slot) the sheet metal bracket that holds the Euro side marker..and the other side is bolted to the newly available place where the light used to mount. I used stainless bolts/nuts to create a new "stud" through the holes used earlier to mount the T/S.

Voila ! .... I have a front-facing small light that blinks...as well as the original T/S ( now mounted on the side..where the side marker used to be)..that also blinks...and plenty of fresh air to the oil cooler.

- Wil

Look also at my 3-10-06 post here---> Brake/oil cooling ducts via turn signal lites

Deschodt · 10-30-2006, 11:44 AM

Voila, he says ;-) Yes, I thnk a picture is in order, but I get the gist of it !

Did you duct the air to the cooler somehow or just let it flow there indiscriminately ? Thanks ! I need to go find me some mesh !

rusnak · 10-30-2006, 07:15 PM

Just removing the light and no ducting will not work at all. That's like wishing the air to force it's way into the cooler.

You need to run a duct from the high pressure area (bumper) to the cooler to force air to go over the fins.

I have tried all sorts of ducting arrangements and just ended up installing the Porsche factory fan on the factory cooler. That works better than any ducting ever did.

Deschodt · 10-31-2006, 05:24 AM

Already got the fan, it does not work well at freeway speed - it's great at lower speeds though. ;-)

Ducman · 10-31-2006, 06:46 AM

Take them both out at the track - I simply added a connector to the incoming harness (sorry don't remember to which light that actually is) took out the retaining bolts and added heavy duty automotive velcro to the back sides of the housings. I drive on the street and the lights stay in place, pull up to the track and it takes 15 seconds to pop out both lights.

As far as working without ducting .......it most certainly does on my car - I have a full radiator style cooler and a big push fan, but removing the marker/turn lights makes the difference as to running all out and having to take cool down laps (on all but the hottest days). Maybe 5-10 degrees diff.

Don

Wil Ferch · 10-31-2006, 06:53 AM

I agree that ducting is not absolutely necessary.....but is certainly beneficial .

I've never posted pics of any kind before....but as time permits I may go back to this thread and see if I can post..

- Wil

Ducman · 10-31-2006, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
I agree that ducting is not absolutely necessary.....but is certainly beneficial .

I've never posted pics of any kind before....but as time permits I may go back to this thread and see if I can post..

- Wil

I agree - I'd like to work out some sort of duct as well, but removing the entire right side assembly is so easy it just make sense to do so.

81 911 SC · 10-31-2006, 11:18 AM

just install this:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_MISCLL_pg16.htm#item75

Deschodt · 10-31-2006, 11:22 AM

I mention that early in the thread. I don't like it, it looks goofy and that part on the car is my turn signal anyway (reversed I guess). The other reflector (your turn signal) is my driving light, and it's in the front, straight, and easy to make mesh for ;-)

Gotta duct this thing but right now I am in trouble with timing issues, first things first ;-)

rusnak · 10-31-2006, 11:59 AM

Greg, did you install a bypass switch on your fan that will allow you to turn the fan on below 250F? Also turn the heater blower on to evacuate hot air from around the heat exchangers.

Deschodt · 10-31-2006, 12:02 PM

Yes, my fan gets activated at the temperature I set via a knob in the front trunk ! About 95C right now...

There is a whole other thread on my (over)heating issues that is 4 pages long ("SC running too damn hot", or something)

rusnak · 10-31-2006, 12:09 PM

We get 105F+ summers here, and I run my AC all summer long. So far 210-220F is normal. 240F is almost unheard of, at least for me. If you're getting much more tan that, it may be due to your higher relative humidity. I'd look at running a front oil cooler, and maybe a Carrera wing. The gain in cooling capacity with the turn signal delete is minimal if at all, not to mention the problems with people turning left right in front of you. Of course, you may still try it before realizing this fact. There is a lot of bad info out there, so nothing isbetter than first hand info.