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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,049
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piont gap, very quick question.
I have just replaced the points on the dist I pulled this afternoon. I gapped to 0.012". FIRED right up & almost imediately went to 2 grand with absolutely no hesistation or miss firing. let it sit for a a minute and then took a couple of quick pulls and it seems to run up nicely and very quickly, again no hesitation. Quickly adusted timing & idle appropiately. Then shut it down
o.k. the question: Is there a possiblity of burning something up with the points or contact system as a result of improper gapping of the points/dwell setting? I don't have a dwell or decent multi meter but am pretty confindent with my twelve thousands, and that thing is really firing. I just don't want to mess anything up. The dist. gears have a nice shine & show a consitent spin, but the cam on the shaft does not contact the point's follower consitently, meaning that when the cam starts to open the points, it is in contact the the follower only at the bottom and not so much at the top. I will try to illustate later. Is my dist shaft cam worn? I also noticed that foward/backward play of the rotor is not nearly what I thought it was, and that it was a pretty significant force required to activate the plunger on the vacuum, However the plate that the points sit on moves freely. I can't imagine that little vacuum line creating that much force, but sure enough when I connect it, the idle drops and the timing retards. I think I should let it warm up, get it running with the vacuum on, then careully adjust the AFR/ Idle speed to 950 rpm. I will then pull the vacuum line, and adjust the timing, noting the rpms, then see what happens when I connect the vauum line. Might have to adust the AFT/Idle again. Then I'll throw a screw driver into the fan. Just Joking. Having a whole lot of fun here and hope to hear from anyone soon. And, please, let me know if I'm missing something here. Chris |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,346
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Year of car? Stock ignition?
If this is a car with CD ignition then the gap/dwell is not critical. If it is an early car with standard coil/points/condenser then it's more critical but your method is probably good enough and I don't think any harm will come from an improper gap. If the follower is not in contact along it's entire length then it will probably wear quicker and need to be adjusted sooner. Otherwise I don't think this is a problem either. -Andy
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72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,723
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Back in the stone age, if we lacked a feeler gauge, the back of a book of paper matches could be used as a way to check points gap...it being approx. .0014" thick.
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ogden Valley area, UT
Posts: 1,049
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thanks for the replies guys.
Eagledriver, the car is a 76 911s, stock ignition. background is here: possible dist. problem (long, but pls read.) Not a problem to readjust the gap as required, as this all is turning out to be alot of fun. Wish I had gotten one sooner. pwd72s, I used three of my spare valve feelers (3*0.004"=0.012"). It sure seems to be working Last edited by chrisf; 11-03-2006 at 08:32 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Keep in mind that the point gap affects the ignition timing; i.e. the moment the spark occurs relative to TDC. Thus, after adjusting the point gap, check and adjust the ignition timing.
Also keep in mind that as the rubbing block on the moveable point wears, the gap decreases ...... and the ignition timing changes - moreso if the rubbing block isn't lubricated. Sherwood |
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