Ignition switch - How long have I got?

[Dirty Marty]

Had the same issue happen to me a while back. If the vehicle is at home. Remove the ignition switch mechanism from the dash in its entirety and take it to a locksmith to have it cleaned/repaired and lubricated. If the mechanism's not damaged this should do the trick. If it is you'll need to replace it . I've got a 70 911 with the original switch that has been handled this way since new.........

Dirty Marty
Fallbrook, CA

[JBO]

I agree with Phil - lock graphite is specifically made for this purpose - how could it be bad to use??

[RoninLB]

if my memory is correct... pelicanhead "safe" said WD-40 is the what to use. He does locks for a living.


maybe do a search.. I would but I'm not at home on my machine.

[911pcars]

Originally posted by JBO
I agree with Phil - lock graphite is specifically made for this purpose - how could it be bad to use??

Probably not bad when used by itself, but who knows what else lies within? If someone had previously sprayed a liquid lube inside, the graphite will mix with it and existing munge and form a ?lube/munge/graphite paste which may be good, bad or indifferent to the workings of the switch.

If all other lube attempts or lube combinations fail, Super Dave might want to remove the switch and follow Dirty Marty's suggestion.

For Plan B, I think a new ignition switch for an '88 is pretty affordable, not like earlier versions which are NLA.

Sherwood

[Super_Dave_D]

Originally posted by 911pcars


For Plan B, I think a new ignition switch for an '88 is pretty affordable, not like earlier versions which are NLA.

Sherwood

I guess $532 would be considered affordable to some but I am struggling with that one??? Maybe a nice used one.

[911pcars]

Yeah, I guess the $532 is not in the category of affordable (to me anyway). I might have been thinking of the electrical portion of the two-piece switch. Isn't that "less"?

Or compared to NLA, $532 is affordable. For that price, I'd see what VW has to offer.

Sherwood

[HarryD]

Originally posted by RoninLB
if my memory is correct... pelicanhead "safe" said WD-40 is the what to use. He does locks for a living.


maybe do a search.. I would but I'm not at home on my machine.

The fellows handle is SAFECRACKER. He is an advocate of WD-40 since, in his experience, he has noted that while WD-40 may not last very long, it does wash out stuff and leaves very little residue. He notes that unlike most of the other lubricants, you can use it frequently with few ill results. He does note that the other lubricants, if overused, can create more prolems than they solve.

Here are a few of his comments:

Originally posted by safecracker
I can't speak of firearms etc. but I can speak of locks. I have operated a locksmith company for 32 years so I have just a little experience on the matter. I am aware of it being a "water displacer" as you put it. Any lock exposed to changes of temperature especially going to the cold side have more problems caused by wrong lubrication than anything else. Graphite, lockease, 3 in 1 oil, silicone, and especially penetrating oil will harden and the larger problem is they attract debri of any kind. Locks aren't guns, they have delicate moving parts that can be restricted from moving the complete travel required for the key to operate. Yes, WD40 is not a lasting lubricant and believe it or not, we DON'T want it to be. WD40 will NEVER create a problem in a lock. If you notice a difference in the smoothness of the key going in or out, give it a little squirt periodically.

I do not intend to say that WD40 will cure other mechanical problems within the lock, but it does a good job to loosen wrong lubrication that has been put in the lock previously.

Originally posted by safecracker
If the lock has not been giving you trouble in the past wd40/tri-flow might solve it. However the bottom line is that when a key suddenly stops turning it is caused by one of the wafers extending up (or down depending on which side it is on) and not settling back down onto the key. The wafers not settling onto the key is caused by a few things. Old and improper lubrication resticting the movement, debri inserted along with the key and blocking movement, a distorted chamber that a wafer travels in or the worst thing is bent/ broken wafer or broken spring. A wafer bending or breaking is usually caused by worn or poorly cut keys and over time the brass wafer finally gives out.

For anyone who gets stuck somewhere, this is what I recommend. Squirt in some WD40 and run the key in and out numerous times, without putting a turning action on the key. This will often free up debris and distribute the lubrication around the whole lock cylinder. After running the key in and out, now insert the key fully and gently wiggle the key back and forth (also removing tension on the wheel at the same time.) Since these locks are double sided, 90% of the time it is a bottom wafer that has to be sprung upward to settle against the key. Unfortunatley gravity is working against you. When a top wafer has movement issues, gravity will usually caused the wafer to settle back down on the key. Hope this helps someone in the future.

[porsche930dude]

if your key looks to be in good shape id take the whole switch out and spray it out with wd-40 and blow it with compressed air. the let it dry out completely for a few days and use graphite. just my .02

[911pcars]

WD40 leaves an oily residue. If one is to clean the insides of the ign. switch, why not just do it with some spray solvent instead of WD40 which the graphite would stick to. Let it dry as suggested, then apply the graphite.

Sherwood

[sig_a]

Originally posted by 911pcars
Yeah, I guess the $532 is not in the category of affordable (to me anyway). I might have been thinking of the electrical portion of the two-piece switch. Isn't that "less"?

Or compared to NLA, $532 is affordable. For that price, I'd see what VW has to offer.

Sherwood

Ignition Switch (1970-1998 - 911) complete with steering lock is $373.95 plus 2 sheer bolts $4.95 each. Also, my 1987 Carrera locks with the wheel at 12 and 6 rather than 9 and 3. I guess that's standard for 911's

I replaced my ignition switch and did not have to rekey because I got the original emergency key AND THE NUMBERED TAG from the previous owner. I was very lucky. I used this number to order the replacement from the Porsche dealer and received the new switch keyed to my original key set. Hopefully, you have that key tag, which is red and white with a 3 or 4 digit number stamped on it. Good luck.