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Location: Milwaukee, WI
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So I am performing my first engine drop and am following 101 projects through out the journey, but now I am stuck.
1. Are there any tricks to removing the barrel nut on top of the starter? 2. I can not seem to remove the long clutch lever. Clip is off and so is the small lever. Large one is stuck. 3. Where is the back-up light plug (or what ever it is called)? Thanks for the help!
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Jeremy C. Why's he calling me meat? I'm the one driving a Porsche. (Bull Durham) ----Nothing is far away in this car!--- -2001 996 Turbo |
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Location: London Ont Canada
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The back up light switch sticks out of the front of the trans ,under a black rubber boot and above the leading edge of the trans crossmember.
It,s been several years sinceI have dropped an engine but I think you can drop it with the starter in and remove the barrel nut later.I think you also only need to remove the small clutch lever,the shaft will then turn and allow separation of eng trans .Others who do this all the time can chime in
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At the front of the trans are three rubber boots, do you recal which one it is?
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Jeremy C. Why's he calling me meat? I'm the one driving a Porsche. (Bull Durham) ----Nothing is far away in this car!--- -2001 996 Turbo |
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Hi,
I recall two sets of wires running into the tunnel. They can both be disconnected where you shift linkage. Dave EDIT Scratch the image, it was the wrong thing, long day...
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Make sure to check out my balls in the Pelican Parts Catalog! 917 inspired shift knobs. '84 Targa - Arena Red - AX #104 '07 Toyota Camry Hybrid - Yes, I'm that guy... '01 Toyota Corolla - Urban Camouflage - SOLD Last edited by slodave; 11-08-2006 at 08:53 PM.. |
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You need to disconnect all the wires that show up in the shifter tunnel spedo and backup wires will appear there .I think the backup switch is the lowest on the front of the trans .pull back the cover and there will be 2 wires undo both.I can,t think what the other 2 boots would be.
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Do you have the engine out already? You do not need to disconnect the back up switch from the front of the trans to remove the engine. It only needs to be pulled if you are separating the engine and trans. Same with the starter.
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Guys,
You've missed a key point in the original post. "am following 101 projects through out the journey" The book has him dropping only the engine only not the engine/tranny combo. JCC, Put everything back together and follow the instructions in the Bentley book. It is soooo much easier to drop the engine and trans mission together. Do a search on engine drop and you will find tons of info.
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Glenn Daily Driver - '78 911SC RoW Endurance Racer - '85.1 944 Street/Track Project - '86 951 Race Project - 944 Spec |
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Thanks for the info. I have gone this far and I would hate to go backwards and pull the tranny as well. I will take another look at it tonight.
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Jeremy C. Why's he calling me meat? I'm the one driving a Porsche. (Bull Durham) ----Nothing is far away in this car!--- -2001 996 Turbo |
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oh man You are killing me. It is really hard to pull just the engine if you have never done it before as a complete assembly. Don't worry this project will get better. there are 2 bolts that hold the starter on one is a barrel 10mm I believe the other is a 17mm nut. The reverse light switch is 2 wires that go through a skinny rubber boot. it may be in your best interest to just pull the CV bolts out and disconnect the tranny in the tunnel and pull the hole thing.. anyhow I have now Internet at home for the next 3 days so you have to call if you need anything.. (roadrunner sucks)
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I think I have know where the reverse light switch is, but how do I remove the longer clutch arm (the one that the helper spring is connected to)?
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Jeremy C. Why's he calling me meat? I'm the one driving a Porsche. (Bull Durham) ----Nothing is far away in this car!--- -2001 996 Turbo |
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The longer arm should slide right off after you remove the circlip and small lever arm. If it is stuck, give it a little whack with a hammer, or try prying it with a screwdriver. Watch out for the backlash of the 'loaded' helper spring.
As for the 4th barrel nut on the topside of the starter, the only way I could get to it was to reach all the way around the transmission with my right arm with a regular allen wrench, almost like I was hugging the tranny. You can actually get decent leverage that way. Otherwise, you need to find the right combo of extensions to get your allen socket on in from the starter side. If you get everything else ready to drop, you could also do a partial drop (lower the engine about 2 inches or so) and then you can get to that nut from the back of the engine bay.
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Here is a picture of the where the reverse light connector is. As said above, there are 2 wires under that little rubber cover that you have to pull out.
If you have not looked already, there is a tech article on this with lots of other good info and pics.... http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_engine_drop/911_engine_drop-1.htm
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I've never felt like pulling the engine was any harder than pulling the engine/trnny together, but that;s just me.
To get the top barrel nut off the starter, lower the rear of the engine once you've removed the two rear engine carrier bolts and then you can access that barrel nut from above much more easily.
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Quote:
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I need to chime on this one. I pulled my first recently... And it is not only better but easier to pull the engine and transmission together.
Aside from the minor stuff you have 4 bolts 2 half shafts and shift linkage....(and ofcourse all the linkages and hoses and wires..not much really) Its not a volkswagon( volkswagons were real easy to drop just the motor). I dropped mine by myself with 2 jacks and jackstands. It took about 2 hours... Just by coincedence....I JUST saw a guys 911SC who dropped just his motor replaced the clutch and put it back in. He re-installed the motor and missed the lineup on the clutch and throwout bearing when he reinstalled the motor...NOW he has to replace the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Pull them both at the same time...seems like alot but believe me, its not. It will save you trouble in the end.
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ok, engine and no tranny coming down? i have had great success taking off that top barrel nut by hugging the tranny. feet pokiing out the back, right hand working the wrench, and right hand guiding. no issues. i typically just jab my 10mm socket in there and turn it with a box wrench.
that clutch arm needs to be pried towards the front of the car. it will unload that helper spring and it will drop everything onto your head. i have done it to my head twice. it will have an eccentric feel. it is tight to pry, and then it gets past a point and it all comes loose. try not to have your head in the way. the better way it to do the prying before you remove the tiny circlip, and the smaller arm.
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jcc911:
As others have said, it would be easier to remove the engine/transmission together. Do yourself a favor; it's not too late. Wayne's 101 is well-meaning but, use it along with the Bentley Manual When reassembling with the transmission in midair: It is tricky to lign up the spline-shaft from the transmission into the clutch disc wiggling the 400 lb engine to match up, plus: The clutch fork has to be mated with the groove in the release bearing; much easier to do with both units on the ground; easier access and a better cleaning job.
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yeah, I tried the "hugging" method last night but it was getting late, so I may have gave up too soon.
I was also concerned about snapping a stud. Anyway, thanks for the great info and I cant wait to get back too it. All in all, I really do not think the drop has been to difficult, yet the tough part, i.e. removal is yet to come
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Another vote for engine and trans. You really are making things alot harder for yourself.
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