Clicking after valve adjustment

Christien · Christien's Garage

Did my first valve adjustment yesterday, and all seemed to go well. After double checking all the clearances and then putting everything back together and starting the car, there was a definite clicking from the top left side that wasn't there before.

Is it more likely that it just needs to get fully warmed up and properly coated with fresh oil to settle down the clicking, or is it more likely that one valve isn't properly adjusted? I wasn't able to get it up to full temp last night because the oil was low (didn't have enough oil to get it to the right level) and I didn't want to really drive it too much with low oil. I let it idle for maybe 7 or 8 minutes, but still not anywhere near full temp.

If the valve still needs readjusting, can I get away with pulling the valve cover off the top, readjusting (pretty sure it's intake on 2 or 3), then replacing the cover with the same gasket? I used a brand new gasket and hardware yesterday, but I only have the one set.

Thanks!
Chris

Todd Simpson · 03-12-2006, 07:01 AM

I've successfully pulled the top covers and reused the gaskets. I think the lowers would be tougher but I've never tried it.

This thread has an interesting method for double checking the clearance at the cam as opposed to the valve tip. You'd need to pull the lowers to do it however.

makaio · 03-12-2006, 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Christien

If the valve still needs readjusting, can I get away with pulling the valve cover off the top, readjusting (pretty sure it's intake on 2 or 3), then replacing the cover with the same gasket? I used a brand new gasket and hardware yesterday, but I only have the one set.

As long as you didn't over torque the nuts, you should be fine. If it was the bottom or exhaust gasket I would say replace it, but you should be ok with the intake (top sided one).

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Just drain about 2 liter out of the sump before you open the lower valve covers and re-check all clearances making sure that you have the correct position of crank vs. cams.
(TDC and distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder)
Try double-checking with longer feeler blades between rocker and cam lobe base circle aside from the normal procedure.
Check for broken springs while you are at it.
An old trick we used in industry was to coat the gaskets on one side with anti-seize lube; they'll come off without sticking.
Works fine; I have re-used the same gakets on mine for the last 3 years (6 oil changes) No leaks!

Christien · Christien's Garage

Hey guys, thanks for the tips. I just topped up the oil and took her out for her first "stretch of the legs" drive this spring. The clicking was still there after about 20 min. of highway driving, so it's definitely not just a question of warming up. I opened up the top valve cover and rechecked the intake of 1 2 and 3 before I left, so it must be the exhaust valves. I'll tackle that hopefully tonight.

Thanks again!
Chris

RoninLB · 03-12-2006, 10:52 AM

fwiw.. I use a long piece of soft hose that is 1/2" ID to probe on top of the vave covers to listen to valve clicking. The soft hose makes a nice seal as you move it from one rocker to another. I need 10 hy miles for a warm up.

Nine9six · Nine9six's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Gunter
An old trick we used in industry was to coat the gaskets on one side with anti-seize lube; they'll come off without sticking.
Works fine; I have re-used the same gakets on mine for the last 3 years (6 oil changes) No leaks!

Gunter,
Does it matter which side you coat with anti-seize? Do you do this with the gaskets with the silicone bead? Why wouldn't you coat both sides of the gasket?
Thanks for your knowledge...

2.7RACER · 03-12-2006, 07:00 PM

Christien,
If you think you have a loose adjustment at a exhaust valve, with the upper valve cover off, try to slide a 0.003" feeler between the rocker and the base circle (back of lobe) of the cam. If the 0.003" feeler slides in, that rocker is over 0.004" at the elephant foot and valve. If the 0.003" feeler does not slip in the adjustment is not loose.
Conversely if a 0.0025" feeler doesn't slip in, the adjustment is too tight.
See the thread refered to by Tod Simpson for a further explanation of how this works.
You'll still need to remove the lower valve cover if a adjustment is needed.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

Nine9six: You can do both sides if you like.
I do only the side that faces the engine case (Cam towers) because I want the gaskets to stick the the covers when they come off.
New gaskets are cheep but, it's such a waste of time to try and clean old gasket-stuff off an area that has a confined space.
They are just the regular gaskets, not the Silicon ones.
If the covers are not warped, and the mating surface is clean, there is no reason for a leak.

Nine9six · Nine9six's Garage

Thanks Gunter...That makes perfect sense.

HopefullEngStdt · 12-30-2006, 09:39 AM

Hey same exact just thing happened to me, i have not had the chance to take my valve covers back off yet but I was wondering if you ended up finding your problem to be a miss adjustment after all or something else

Christien · Christien's Garage

Yep, readjusted twice to get it right, now all is good. Read up on Doug's (2.7racer) methods - lots of people are saying this is the better way, though I could never get the 2 checks to agree!