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Smart Racing Front Sway Bar Install Q!
Hi All,
I've got a Smart Racing front sway bar waiting to go on. The instructions state that you have to remove the fuel tank first, has anyone managed to fit one without doing so? I'm sure I've seen it mentioned before but I can't find via a search now! Cheers, Tim.
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD http://forums.pelicanparts.com/impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Join Date: May 2003
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I've installed a few with the tank in the car. Getting the back side of each mount positioned and attached is more difficult and involves creative use of a coat hanger to help position it. There are also wires and the heavy gauge starter wire that can obstruct passing the bar through.
After doing a couple this way I'd recommend pulling the tank. With the tank out of the way installing the mounts is easy and you can rearrange all the wiring beforehand.
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Keith Lally 85 911 Blue Coupe - gone 84 911 Silver Coupe - gone Last edited by lally911; 01-04-2007 at 03:59 AM.. |
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Stahlwerks.com
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Just did this install a few months ago, and I would recommend pulling the tank. Its not that big a deal and also lets you check the condition of the tank, etc.
Susp upgrade (sway bar porn install) I would also recommend installing the bar about 1/4" back from the stock location as stamped in the sheet metal. I'm running a 31mm bar in front and had issues with clearance to the tank.
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John Helgesen Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design "Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet" |
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Thanks guys, looks like the tanks coming out then
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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I started the install of the sway bar today, having terrible trouble getting everything aligned properly. Has anyone got any tips on alignment?
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Stahlwerks.com
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Follow the smart racing instruction of having to install the bar in the mounts, then tighten the bolts down, then slide the bar out and us it as a pry bar to tweek the mounts into alignment. I would twist the bar while it was close to the mount on the other side to feel for drag. They have to be dead nuts even for it to slide smoothly.
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John Helgesen Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design "Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet" |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Black Rock, CT
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I debated as well, but I think opulling the tank is the way to go, to do it right. And the tank comes out so easily, it's no big deal.
The alignment issue takes some tweaking. It's easy to get reversed and bend the wrong way. But keep at it, it will clign up in time. aIMO, the Smart bars are VERY sweet.
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT. '73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B] |
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I don't think there's any way to install the fittings, on a later car anyway (I think there are two methods in the instructions, one for early cars and one for later)
Anyway, for the later cars, the bolts are used as studs and the bolt head are on the trunk side. For my 87 I was able to get the fitting/bolts installed on the pass. side without removing the tank but no way on the drivers side. As for alignment, as stated above, keep working it using the bar to align the holes.
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Don 97 993 Coupe - Arctic/Black 13 991 Coupe - Platinum/Black - Sold 87 911 Coupe - Venetian Blue Track Car - Sadly Sold 2015 Audi Q5, 2015 Golf TDI |
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I just loosened the tank mounting fixtures and pulled in a wee bit forward....
Cheers
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Turn3 Autosport- Full Service and Race Prep jeff@turn3autosport.com 997 S 4.0, Boxster 2.7 Race Car, Cayman S 3.8, 958 Cayenne TT, VW GTI 2.1 TSI, Mini Cooper S JCW, Cannondale Supersix EVO SRAM RED E-tap, Cannondale Slice SRAM RED E-tap, Giant Roam Hardtail- to ride with the wife. |
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Thanks guys, I have removed the tank, guess I just need to spend some more time bending stuff about!
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Yeah, it takes time. It will happen, though... The most important tool in aligning the bar is patience! Once set, the bar will roll very smoothly. It's a kick-a$$ product.
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Garen (87 930 track rat) |
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OK, after a few hours of trying to get the bar aligned the best I've managed is to get them so they move with light hand pressure on the lever arms. Will this be OK?
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Stahlwerks.com
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If you put the lever arms on, do they rotate down on their own? You need to get them that aligned.
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John Helgesen Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design "Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet" |
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![]() I spoke to a Porsche specialist over here that's recently installed some for a friend of mine and he seems to think it's fine for them to bind a little??
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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make the little effort NOW to get everything aligned as smooth as possible
if not, your bar will start to squeek in about 4 to 8 weeks and you can take everything apart again to realign by then you're thinking "wish I did it right the first time" ![]() BTDT
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better explain what you mean by aligning everything....
i.e. you don't mean taking the car to an alignment shop, do you?
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Quote:
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1984 Carrera - 3.6 Conversion, 326bhp, 1020kg - SOLD 1987 930 - SOLD 1983 911 SC Targa - SOLD impactbumpers.com - Classic 911's and nothing else |
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Thx - given the large number of views, it's always good to make your posts understandable by the beginner
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yep, that's what I meant... sorry if it wasn't clear
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The SR bars are very frustrating to align properly. If you try to "force" the bar in, the thin plastic bushing will crack very easily. I've done these a few times. Some hint maybe not mentioned are: Tighten the bolts holding the brackets in the fender-wall with the bushing and bar in place to keep the relative spacing accurate. If you already have them in, then try the next step. Use a spare spacer (one that may of cracked
![]() The good news is that once they are properly done, they need minimal maintenance and never make any noise. I usually remove them once a year, check for worn of cracked bushings and re-grease. A quality made item. |
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