Longhood guys. What year and model would you recommend?

[livi]

Some of you may have noticed my ill concealed passion for the pre-74 models. As it happens I might find myself in a financially rather viable situation later this year.

What year(s) and model(s) would you regard as the best for a guy like me with wrenching experience that amounts to very little, but a passion to learn. We are talking ROW models here of course.

Be very interesting to here your thoughts. Thanks!

[Hoss3.0]

Well the '72's of course. Non sunroof coupes are my choice naturally (see sig.). Hopefully it works out for you. I too want a variety of years in my stable, that will have to wait though.

[Bill Verburg]

'73RS then '72 S

[Jim Richards]

Markus, I think any of the early models would be great fun to own. Probably an S would give you the biggest grin per $(convert to your currency), or maybe a hot rod. I lust for a short wheelbase 911, but only have room for one 911, so my hot rod 73E/2.7RS will have to keep me smiling. No problem there.

Bill V's recommendation is real good. If you can afford it, get the RS. If not, a 72 (or 73) S would be a blast.

[Eric Coffey]

`67-68 911T/911L (SBW) and turn it into a 911R clone.

Or if you prefer the completely stock, non-bastardized route, a `68 Euro 911S.

[}{arlequin]

i'm afraid people that actually can afford (and get) the RS, end up not enjoying it as much as they could due to the value/importance/rarity of the vehicle which takes the fun out of it wheras a 'normal' longhood can be driven daily.

non-sunroof cars are my top pic and the '72 is at the top of my list as well for obvious reasons.

after that, it usually comes down to whatever you find that is the 'healthiest' in terms of body/rust/mechanicals.

do you want a 901 transmission w/ a dogleg 1st gear or do you want a more traditional 915 shift pattern... different years different equipment.

either way, you won't regret it

[304065]

Not an SWB car. They are getting too rare and when you find a good one ( a good one is defined as having less than 50% rust) the correct thing to do is restore, not modify. An "R" can be built on any tub because everything (trunk, roof, engine lid, fenders, quarters, doors) gets replaced anyway.

Livi, the car for you is a Rust-free California 1971 911T with the original engine in storage and a similar-appearing 3,0 with PMO carburetors installed.

[livi]

Thanks guys!

The RS is probably not possible. Too much money and too rare. I want a car I dare to drive.

You have mentioned the 72 S but not the 73 S. How come ?

Are the 2.4 engines generally more reliable than the earlier ones ?

I have no speed requirement. The T and E models are slower of course, but do they have any advantages over the S models say in terms of reliability and longevity ? What about how the different models lend themselves to DIY wrenching ?

Lot of questions, but according to the slogan: If anyone can - Pelican!!

[t6dpilot]

You have to decide SWB or LWB first, I think. The SWB cars are getting harder and harder to find, especially in good condition. I have two LWB cars, but am starting to long for an SWB car. Next (or maybe really first), you should determine what your pocketbook will stand. If you can do $45K to $60K+, go for an S. They are fast and high revving, though a little flat on the cam in the mid range revs. They like to be revved - above 5,000 - and really fly. For $25k to $40k there is the E, which is a great all around performer. As fast to 100mph as the S (so they say), but more comfortable to drive around town. Less cammy as I understand it, but still quick nonetheless. I have heard it said that a 72/73E is faster than a 70/71 S. Last, but certainly not least is the T. A great little car if you get a solid one, that was primarily designed for the American market. It is the lowest horsepower model and probably the best for typical in town American driving. Check out www.early911s.com to see all the HP and weight figures for all years.

Bear in mind that I am by no means an expert and the pricing stated above is a very rough estimate and only my opinion. The cars values are all dependent on condition, rarity, and what someone is willing to pay cash that day for a particular car. That said, I did not forget the RS cars - they are the rarest and most desireable of the bunch. Muscular, yet lithe, and with the most HP. Also, the most expensive by a factor of 3 or 4 (from an S).

Next decide if you like chrome or not for the exterior trim. Every model had the chrome treatment, but the 73 model year has black horn grills and turn signal lens treatment. I personally prefer the chrome look. The 72 is pretty cool with the external oil filler door. The interior is pretty much the same for all the LWB models in design and you will find mostly black out there (although there were some very, very cool color combinations available - I especially like the red interior with silver exterior).

Is originality important to you? Do you want a numbers matching type of car? Or would you settle for an R Gruppe style of hotrod? Personally, I like both for very different reasons. My T is a matching numbers, 99% "all there" type of car and I love seeing it in its unmolseted condition. The 69E that I have is slightly hotrodded in the R Gruppe vein and I love that car for its purity and rawness. That might be a way to go also if that is your gig.

Sorry for the rambling and I am sure I will be corrected on some of my points posted as I am no expert. I am just an enthusiast who wanted to point out only a few of the things to consider when choosing a car. Remember it is all about what you like. Then go out and find the best car you can afford. Condition is everything! Rust, maintenance history, records, ect.

Good luck and keep us informed.

[t6dpilot]

Oh, forgot to add... Coupe! IMHO.

[Jim Richards]

Originally posted by john_cramer
Not an SWB car. They are getting too rare and when you find a good one ( a good one is defined as having less than 50% rust) the correct thing to do is restore, not modify. An "R" can be built on any tub because everything (trunk, roof, engine lid, fenders, quarters, doors) gets replaced anyway.

John, what prompted this train of thought? My post? If so, I suggested either an S, or a hot rod, or a SWB or an RS. If I wasn't clear, my bad.

[rcooled]

As a former longhood guy, a '73 911E would be my choice for a road car . Last year for longhoods....2.4 liters....915 trans....better drivability than a "S" but with enough HP to make it interesting. For a track car or hotrod, just buy any rust-free example that you like....only real choice would be SWB or LWB.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally posted by livi
Thanks guys!


You have mentioned the 72 S but not the 73 S. How come ?

Are the 2.4 engines generally more reliable than the earlier ones ?

I have no speed requirement. The T and E models are slower of course, but do they have any advantages over the S models say in terms of reliability and longevity ? What about how the different models lend themselves to DIY wrenching ?

The '72 has the oil tank in the proper place ahead of the rear wheels. They didn't do it right again until '89.

2.4 is the least stressed early engine, this generally means reliability, all US models had MFI, I believe that only RoW E,S had MFI, the T used carbs, T also didn't have sway bars. Avoid hydropneumatic suspension cars, carbed cars, 4 speed cars, auto trans cars.

'72 up at least had galvanized floor pans

[Evans, Marv]

Marcus,
I owned a '67 912 and '92 911E. Currently I'm working on my '69E (and have been for what seems like an eternity), but it won't be stock. I liked them all & feel most nostalgic about the '67 912. If I were you, I would take '72 or '73 911E or 911S, whichever you find that is the best you can afford. The S is a car that will appreciate over time the most, but the Es are doing pretty well also. By the way, the E outruns the S in the quarter mile & has a great torque curve that makes daily driving fun.

[randywebb]

The '72 has the oil tank moved forward for better balance. The factory claims a 6" shift in the CG!

But it is a bit less safe as it lacks the side impact door beams that the '73 has.

Are you going to keep the car stock? If not, then get a '72T (and I love the sunroof) and hot rod it.

If so, then an E or an S is what you want. The S is not good in traffic. The '72 and '73 gearboxes will be better in traffic.
OTOH, you should avoid traffic to begin with.

If it was me, I'd get a '72T, put in a hot rod motor and the type 911 tranny - the dogleg pattern is the road racing style and is superior for driving rel. to the 915. You would then start lightening the car...

[Jim Richards]

Randy, is the side impact thing RoW or USA (DOT mandated)?

[Hoss3.0]

Originally posted by Bill Verburg
The '72 has the oil tank in the proper place ahead of the rear wheels. They didn't do it right again until '89.

2.4 is the least stressed early engine, this generally means reliability, all US models had MFI, I believe that only RoW E,S had MFI, the T used carbs, T also didn't have sway bars. Avoid hydropneumatic suspension cars, carbed cars, 4 speed cars, auto trans cars.

'72 up at least had galvanized floor pans

Options for the '72 included sway bars and other sport upgrades. My car ('72T) came from the factory with Koni shocks, sway bars, S front bumper and S brakes. At some point someone added Webers, while it's not as convenient it sure makes a nice package. This to say that you don't need to shell out the big $$$ for performance in an early car. Unless you are hung up on having the "S" badge. Most people don't have the opportunity nor training to notice or take advantage of the difference between the two.

[Drago]

Why the '69T* of course!

*Only if you like being passed by little old ladies.

[Lukesportsman]

If your inclined to modify, I'd look for a late E then have the delightful option of later RS P&C's bump up compression with some good exhaust and a 915. This gives you a nice poor man's RS setup after lightening her up. Oh, geesh I just described my car. But really a 2.7 MFI gives the old school feel with better street manners than any 2.2S could offer. You could do one better than me by using the 7:31 gears.

What look do you want? Stock or Mod? SWB or LWB? 901 or 915? Easier or more challenging to drive on the edge?

No flares and a 3.6 w/PMO's could be interesting in a swb.

[Bobboloo]

My favorites are 70' thru 73' T,E, or S. Coupe or Targa.

I wouldn't limit my search to any specific one. I'd find the best condition car I could find.

Preferably I'd find a well sorted car that has had suspension upgrades.

For example, I had a 72'T Coupe that I rebuilt the motor and tranny on but it had a stock suspension. My 73' Targa by comparison is far superior though in the fun department with it's upgraded suspension. By far the funnest car I've owned. I've driven the car with two different motors. A 3.2 and a 2.7CIS and really either motor is a blast because of the suspension and the Rennshift. The only thing I miss from the old 72' Coupe is the sound of the MFI. That's it.

I'm building a 2.7RS MFI motor for the car in the near future so I can have fun swapping and comparing it to the 3.2EFI.


If you can find a car that has had the suspension upgraded you'll be ahead of the game.