Oil tank removal - question

[lespaul]

Second question of the day. While I have the oil tank drained for oil change and valve job, I decide to take the oil tank out and clean it inside and out and the paint exterior of the tank ------- and while I am at it, to get way up under right rear well and clean up all dirt and rust and give it a good coat of POR ---- and also take off the rear bumper and do the same inside of it ---- and also reverse the muffler clamps the PO had on the wrong side which are eating into the back of the bumper. . . . . and then do the left side next. . . . .

Anyway, there is a big nut (about 2" dia.) at the bottom of the oil tank and which holds on the end of the black rubber oil line running to the engine. It won't come off the oil tank. I used penetration oil. It still won't come off. I am using so much force, I am afraid I will twist the part of the oil tank body where the nut screws in.

Is there a trick to getting this particular nut off? If not, should I use heat?

Any good advice appreciated.

Thanks.

[Grady Clay]

Picture please.

Best,
Grady

[lespaul]

Thanks Grady,

I will take one tonight. Just saw that a new tank will cost me about $700, so I don't want to ruin the one I have.

[Early_S_Man]

lespaul,

Be sure you have cleaned and degreased the fitting and tank of as much oil/mud/debris as possible ...

Brush on plenty of 9% pickling vinegar and continue applying every 2 - 3 minutes at the top of the threaded area, allowing to seep down the threaded area of tank fitting and nut. After an hour or so, try loosening again with tight-fitting wrench at least 18" long.

If corrosion or rust is still present after application of the vinegar no longer bubbles ... use 1:1 water-diluted Muriatic acid [HCl] for cleaning swimming pools with protective gear on hands, face, and eyes. Catch any and all runoff in glass container, and be aware that any remaining cadmium plating on the fitting will be removed by the muriatic acid. Rinse thoroughly with water after use of the muriatic acid.

Last resort is a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool ... cut through the nut [ very slowly and carefully] at a 45° angle to the threads in at least two locations.

[lespaul]

Warren,

I can hardly wait to get home to try this.

I guess I need a life other than that longhood in my garage . . .

Thanks

Brad

[randywebb]

also try bumping it the other 'wrong' way and tap on it with a steel handle

[lespaul]

Will do.

I will report back.

[lespaul]

Warren, Randy and Grady

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't know if it was the vinegar, muriatic acid, heat with penetrant or the 18" pipe wrench -- but I used all of them and got it off! Oil tank is out of car now. Plan to POR exterior and clean out interior. Would sloshing kerosene inside, letting it dry and then sloshing a quart of oil prior to reinstallation do it? Or should I use something else to clean interior of oil tank? I saw where someone took theres to a radiator shop for cleaning - should I do that?

Thanks again for your help.

Brad

[lespaul]

I have read a lot of threads about cleaning the inside of the oil tank. I can't see any consensus - except don't POR the inside (which I agree with).

I don't think there is rust in mine. In fact, although the wheel well is rusty, I see no rust on the outside of this tank, -- is it possible this tank is stainless?

I would rather not spend money having someone clean or treat the inside, if I can do it myself.

Is there a consensus method?

My plan would be to slosh kerosene around inside until the kero comes out "clean." Then, a quart of oil to coat the inside.

I am not too crazy about putting in bolts and marbles and shaking it - unless someone can tell me this won't hurt the copper lining that I understand it has.

What is the best way to go?

[Early_S_Man]

Brad,

I use a two-stage process. First, a low-volatility solvent like Varsol or kerosene to clean out the residual oil and surface coating. Second, a more active solvent like Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to really go after the long term, stubborn deposits.

Slosh and sit, slosh and sit, repeat ... until you are worn out, then drain. Repeat with fresh solvent until drain is clear, then move to more agressive solvent.

A couple of layers of duct tape over each orfice and worm-gear clamps can help to minimize spillage during sloshing.

Who knows ... you may find an extra dipstick or two down there!

[lespaul]

Thanks Warren. As usual, your advice is clear, concise and very helpful. I wish I could reciprocate, but the only car I ever restored was a TR3-A - 30 years ago, and I don't suppose you have one of those in your garage do you?