How is my sway bar geometry?
 

I have an aftermarket rear sway bar that has been identified as an old Addco unit. The passenger side bracket and bushing have been torn off of the car. The end links were replaced within the past 5 years or so but I think they may be a little long, possibly causing stress on the mounts.

Here is the driver's side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170877711.jpg

And the torn passenger side.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170877744.jpg

The bar measures 17.5mm and the links measure just under 2" long shaft length between the bushings.

I am going to replace the mounts with Energy Suspension parts as well as the links. The energy suspension links come in a 2" length, 1 5/8" length, and 1". Should I go for the shorter links? With the car on the ground the end of the bar seems to put a lot of stress on the bushings (you can see it in the first photo).

Also does the bar look like it's upside down to anyone? With shorter links would it work flipped over? The only reason I ask is that it may be incorrectly installed all together.

Thanks!

I think you need to reshoot the pics with adequate & better lighting!

What I see looks like the lever-arm portion of the bar is too long.

Looks like this end is home-made AND there is no bushing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1170885005.jpg

Personally, I'd ditch that home-brewed, cobbled-up mess. I'd either source a rear OEM bar and bushings, or spring for a decent aftermarket set of bars.

addco still makes theirs you might just contact them for parts.

It's scrap, take it off and install a proper sway bar and mounts.

Hmm, well obviously my setup is not well thought of! The car is an early T so it doesn't have the OEM sway bar mounts. I was trying to replace the mounting components (and possibly correct the install) of this unit to use it for a while which would probably run $35 all together. I have other suspension projects I'd like to complete before spending big money on having mounts welded to the car and acquiring a new bar.


I will take some better pics when I get home this weekend and get back to you guys. I need to take care of some other things under the car so I should be able to take a better look at what I'm dealing with. I definately don't like how low this bar sits on the car, making me think it might be installed wrong. From what GaryR says I might be better off removing the bar all together.

I think Addco's bar's are good for MG's and Triumphs, but for a 911 "No" There is little benifit to have those drop links with the exhaust bracket type rubber hardware. This is 1960' technology....

Go with updated SC type mounts with a more modern bar, the weltmister rear bar would be a very economical way to replace your setup

If you post on the parts board here for a rear weltmister set up, you will get lots of reponses.

Ditto on the front setup

This thread has some shots showing the "weltmeister" way to do a rear bar on a car that does not have the welded mounts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=266897&highlight=rear+s way

Sorry, sometimes I can be a little... abrupt. The reality is if the bar doesn't have an equal range of unrestricted motion on both sides it isn't functioning properly. Without bushings yours can't work correctly even if the geometry was correct, which it sure doesn't look to me. At least removing the bar will allow the suspension to work equally on both sides, and as long as you are not driving crazy you will be fine. Better off with no sway bar as opposed to an improper one (with a soon to be broken mount by the looks of it..)
:)

Gary- Oh yeah, I didn't take offense. At least if you're abrupt people know where you stand! I completely agree that the setup is wrong and if the bar is poorly executed it's much worse than no bar at all. I wouldn't ever run the bar without the bushings or brackets installed. I know the drop links were added within the last three years while the bar was added about 10 years ago. Whoever thought those drop links were a good idea was on crack.

The front bar is an OEM through body unit that had a weird linkage setup. I have all the OEM linkage parts to get that back to normal sitting in the garage.