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How is my sway bar geometry?
I have an aftermarket rear sway bar that has been identified as an old Addco unit. The passenger side bracket and bushing have been torn off of the car. The end links were replaced within the past 5 years or so but I think they may be a little long, possibly causing stress on the mounts.
Here is the driver's side. ![]() And the torn passenger side. ![]() The bar measures 17.5mm and the links measure just under 2" long shaft length between the bushings. I am going to replace the mounts with Energy Suspension parts as well as the links. The energy suspension links come in a 2" length, 1 5/8" length, and 1". Should I go for the shorter links? With the car on the ground the end of the bar seems to put a lot of stress on the bushings (you can see it in the first photo). Also does the bar look like it's upside down to anyone? With shorter links would it work flipped over? The only reason I ask is that it may be incorrectly installed all together. Thanks!
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-Jess |
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I think you need to reshoot the pics with adequate & better lighting!
What I see looks like the lever-arm portion of the bar is too long.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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Looks like this end is home-made AND there is no bushing.
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Tony G 2000 Boxster S |
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Southern Class & Sass
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Personally, I'd ditch that home-brewed, cobbled-up mess. I'd either source a rear OEM bar and bushings, or spring for a decent aftermarket set of bars.
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Dixie Bradenton, FL 2013 Camaro ZL1 |
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addco still makes theirs you might just contact them for parts.
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It's scrap, take it off and install a proper sway bar and mounts.
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Gary R. |
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Hmm, well obviously my setup is not well thought of! The car is an early T so it doesn't have the OEM sway bar mounts. I was trying to replace the mounting components (and possibly correct the install) of this unit to use it for a while which would probably run $35 all together. I have other suspension projects I'd like to complete before spending big money on having mounts welded to the car and acquiring a new bar.
I will take some better pics when I get home this weekend and get back to you guys. I need to take care of some other things under the car so I should be able to take a better look at what I'm dealing with. I definately don't like how low this bar sits on the car, making me think it might be installed wrong. From what GaryR says I might be better off removing the bar all together.
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-Jess |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: redwood shores Ca.
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I think Addco's bar's are good for MG's and Triumphs, but for a 911 "No" There is little benifit to have those drop links with the exhaust bracket type rubber hardware. This is 1960' technology....
Go with updated SC type mounts with a more modern bar, the weltmister rear bar would be a very economical way to replace your setup If you post on the parts board here for a rear weltmister set up, you will get lots of reponses. Ditto on the front setup |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
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This thread has some shots showing the "weltmeister" way to do a rear bar on a car that does not have the welded mounts.
adjustable sway bars...1971 chassis
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Quote:
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Gary R. |
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Gary- Oh yeah, I didn't take offense. At least if you're abrupt people know where you stand! I completely agree that the setup is wrong and if the bar is poorly executed it's much worse than no bar at all. I wouldn't ever run the bar without the bushings or brackets installed. I know the drop links were added within the last three years while the bar was added about 10 years ago. Whoever thought those drop links were a good idea was on crack.
The front bar is an OEM through body unit that had a weird linkage setup. I have all the OEM linkage parts to get that back to normal sitting in the garage.
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-Jess |
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