Cool brake ducting, with pics.

[palle7688]

Thought I would share this.
Made from leftover 3" galvanized pipe normally used for my house rain gutter drain. Cut to fit.
You have to remove the galvanizing in order to weld it.

[MattAlpha]

Very nice!

[911teo]

I love it!

[azasadny]

Great work!!

[IROC]

I like your use of the tubing around the a-arm. I need to do something like that in the next month. How did you secure the tubing to the a-arm? I'd like to see some pics of the completed routing if you have a chance.

Mike

[bkreigsr]

in a word, yes, cool
pic of finished front valance please, and the completed ducting?
Bill K

[Scooter]

More pics of your car, please!

[jaydubya]

Great work! The tube over the a-arm is like the pieces that Smart Racing sells, only much cheaper!

I'd like to see th hose routing too. I have the Smart Racing pieces, which use 2.5" diameter hose, and I can barely get those routed properly between the a-arm, swaybar droplink, brake line, etc. to line up with the inlet for the backing plate... Seems like 3" tubing would be nearly impossible to route through there.

Cheers,

JEff

[randywebb]

the tube is small so don't expect miracles...

very clean looking tho

[palle7688]

I'm so sorry but I can't get to my beloved car for some time. I'm working abroad at the moment. This gave me the time to post these pics:-)
No pictures of finished valance on car, except the ones already shown.
Screen hold in place with bodysealant only.
No pictures of ducting but it runs from inlettube to the tube on A-arm and from tube on A-arm over A-arm and behind swaybar link to the fabbed rotor backplate. I'm using 3" hose but it barely clears and get worn after a while. I've tried to clearify with photoshop. Please, bare with me, I'm a novice in this.
This was done spring 2005. One thing I had to mod was the tube on the rotor backplate. The thickness of the tube is to small to really thighten the hose clamp so the hose bacame loose when the wheels turn. I cut a piece of sheetmetal app. 1/2" wide and long enough of fit inside tube when rolled. I then drilled some holes in the tube and spotwelded the rolled sheetmetal in place to reinforce tube. Works perfectly.
The cutout in the tubes on the A-arm is closed with some sheetmetal or a piece of tube cut in half like a "C". Holds in place with tiewraps or the clamps for hose. The safety wire shown in picture on A-arm tube is just for trial fit. This tube a clamped against the part of A-arms where torsionbar is.

[911pcars]

Nice job, but a quick comment. The wire grill is going to impose some air flow restriction. If you could disassemble the grill wires and group them together, you'd see how much of the passage it blocks. For street driving, leave as is since you're rarely going to overtax the factory brakes. For the track, make the grillwork removeable. Just MHO.

Sherwood

[palle7688]

yeah, I know, but it was I had. But it makes it a bit stealthier.
In the last pic in first post the grille is not installed.
If it ever becomes loose I'll replace it with bigger mesh grille.

[palle7688]

Any suggestions on how to make a removeable grille???????

[Zeke]

Originally posted by palle7688
Any suggestions on how to make a removeable grille???????

I don't know, you seem to be doing pretty darn good on your own.

I think Sherwood has a point, but it's on the track that you need a little protection, methinks. I would surmise that most rocks would get hung up in the duct work before getting into the rotors. Maybe all you need is a more open and finer weave on the wire to let in the maximum amount of air.

For a removable screen, I'd try to make a small flange or series of tabs for the mesh to rest against. To hold in place, just some srews and washers. Real pretty would be a bezel. Maybe there's something from some kind of dash board or other source. Check those aircraft supply places.

[KTL]

Agreed that it does not need to be removable. Just pick a screening that has quite large openings. Track debris can indeed get into the rotors. More of a concern is track rubber, than rocks.

Take a look at what I did here

new valence and cooling ducts

It's by no means the perfect solution. I still have to install the receiving ducts and the hose, and remove the 964 scoops in lieu of backing plates.

[JeremyD]

Yeah - mine are similiar to Kevin's - but with a similiar modification
to add some more fresh air to the brakes and carrera oil cooler.



Looks like a stock carrera - Stainless Steel mesh epoxied to the inside of the housing


APC driving light mounted to the inside
Lights on


with the flash to highlight the guts

[bkreigsr]

anyone think the rotation of the disks will create a negative pressure down the inlet tube thereby eliminating the concern that the inlet with screen will suffer because of the aero effect?

Bill K

[911pcars]

I don't. Airflow hits a spinning wall. Where does the air go then? Probably stalls. If you want to ensure positive air flow, find someplace to install an inline blower in each hose. Here's one from Detroit Marine:



I'd recommend a water spray system too, but I'd save that for serious brake cooling.

Sherwood
SeineSystems. com

[porsche930dude]

palle what kind of wheels are those. They are awsome! Very cool braking ducts also. Looks like somthing i would do

[len911]

For the benefit of all of you, and not stealing the thread, I'll show you the setup on my 74. I also made the A-arm tube and in addition, made my custom backing and blocking plates since I use Wildwood rotors. Pictures are also included showing hose routing. I use a coarse grille on an RSR bumper and I have tested it with a leaf blower to make sure there is enough air flow into the rotors. Enjoy... Lou