OK-I broke an exhaust manifold stud-quick question

[efhughes3]

I broke one, which ain't bad I guess. The problem is no dealer in town has them in stock today. The question is: does anyone think it to be a problem to get the new headers all bolted in place minus the one stud? When I get it in next week, I can then spend a few minutes installing it. Problems?

[hkspwrsche]

Did you already get the old remaining stud out of the way? If thats the case the hard part is done. If not I guess that'll be your project for the rest of the weekend! The exhaust would still need to be out of the way to install the new one if you get the old one out.

[efhughes3]

I didn't say that! I was being optimistic and trying to locate a replacement stud today. Assuming I can get the stud out, I'd like to get it all back together minus the missing stud. I won't be driving, just working toward completion.

[Grady Clay]

Ed,

The most difficult part is removing the broken stud from the head. How much of the broken stud protrudes from the head? Is the stud broken off below the head surface? What stud removal tools do you have available?

Too many times a broken head stud removal attempt results in the problem becoming worse and necessitating more extreme measures all the way to removing the head. Planning, the right tools, and careful execution are critical.

Can you post a picture?

Best,
Grady

[Rot 911]

The exhaust studs are not any special heat treated studs. You can probably go to your local hardware store that carries metric bolts and find a stud that will fit.

[Joeaksa]

Ed,

I would put the exhaust back on and drive it down to Zims or whatever shop you use and have them drill it out.

Really takes a bit if experience and a drill fixture to do it right and not muck up the head. Like Grady says, it can go from bad to extremely bad at this point if not done correctly.

JoeA

[Jim Sims]

It's too late for ef- but having broken some of these exhaust studs trying to loosen nuts without a real torch and then dealing with the consequences and then having seen how easily the nuts are removed with a oxy-acetylene torch and a helper to wrench free the nut while it's red hot my advice is to buy or rent or borrow a REAL torch. The cost and hassle of having to remove a head and having stud repairs done will pay for the cost of an oxy-acetylene torch set and gas bottle rentals! Jim

[efhughes3]

First of all, I did use a REAL torch. Secondly, it MAY be my lucky day! The stud only broke off 3/8" from the end, so I'm guessing it was between the barrel nut and the flange-possibly corrosion. Since the B&B flange is 1/4" thinner than the stock manifold, I may be able to let this ride. Would everyone agree this is better than tempting fate? The downside, the way I see it, is to keep an eye on this nut (Stover type) so it doesn't back out. Any naysayers to leaving it be?

At any rate, here she is:

[89911]

Maybe its the angle, but the head looks like it is distorted. Can a nut screw on this ok? If so and you have enough turns to tighten the flange, go for it and leave it.

[efhughes3]

I looked at it, must have been the photographer screwing up the pic, it's straight. Thanks for the moral support!

[Jim Sims]

Ed, My apologies, I thought I read you were using a MAPP torch. I would try and use the stud. If the B&B flanges don't allow you to pick up at least two to three complete threads on a hex nut then turning down the outside of the threaded end of a barrel nut and perhaps slightly opening up the mating hole in the flange may allow you to get enough threads engaged. Be sure and chase all those stud threads with a chasing die (Sears sells a nice set) and coat them well with anti-seize compound. New nuts are in order too. Cheers, Jim

[Joeaksa]

Ed,

You must be living right as you are lucky so far on this one! (Play the lotto tonight just to make sure!)

I have had most studs break closer to the head and you have a lot to work with. If you cannot get a nut on the stud then you might try to pull the old stud out but pls be careful.

Harbor Freight sells a descent set of stud pullers that screw onto the stud and pull it out pretty good. Not like the ones that slip over the stud and work only on part of the outside. Might check with them as there is one in Richardson and Irving areas... not sure how far they are from you.

JoeA

[930 Guy]

I'm at 635 & 35, I think I have a stud of the right size. e-mail me direct at a930guy2@swbell.net

[Grady Clay]

Ed,

If you have an expert shop close by, this might be the time to have them replace the stud. With that much of the stud protruding from the head it should be easy for a skilled shop with the right tools and heat/cool ability. I count only 8 threads where the undamaged one has 17 threads. The stud probably broke flush with the outer surface of the flange. If so, there isn’t any way a nut will turn on.

Your idea of installing the heat exchanger with only 5 bolts is just fine. If there are three serviceable used exhaust gaskets, use them. Save the new ones for the final install.

Best,
Grady

[930 Guy]

Use a die from pep boys to tap the end of the threads. Put two nuts on and tighten to remove. Should work.

[efhughes3]

930Guy: Thanks for the offer! I trial fitted it and I'll be OK. I'm going to drop the motor for a rebuild this winter, so I'll address the stud then when I have the heads done. I'll chase the threads with a die, and hopefully be in good shape!!

[930 Guy]

I also have Kroil. if you want to loosen it. I just had the same problem on my 930 and it was a 5 minute fix. With that much stud sticking out it should come loose. I confirmed I do have several studs here at the house. Good luck, let me know.