Jacking points again.. + suspension tweeks

Dear All,

My car is up on jack stands at the moment.
The stand locations I chose are at the front of the sills just back from the wheel arch.
The rear stands are placed under the vulcanised rubber coated torsion tube covers that poke through the spring plate.
The latter location was copied from a Pelican article on fitting an external oil cooler in the current edition of 911 & Porsche World.

The car is a '76 Targa, the drivers door is difficult to open/close with the car like this. Am I doing some damage? Other than this the car seems pretty much planted.

I have read the other posts on jack stand location, with the wheels at the polishers I'm reluctant to move the car in case it falls.

The planned work :
Turbo tie rods
Neatrix bushings for the back end
Brake o/haul inc. new disks
New Bilstein shocks

New tyres also (Bridgestone SO2 PP's) + alignment.

Are there any other 'must do's' to add to the list?

Basically want to get the car handling like it did 25 years ago. The cars feels very loose at the moment.

JG

Jon, I can tell your not from the US with the words "tyres". I always wondered how that came to be. Anyhow, I think your seeing a prime example of targa's having less rigidity with the open top compared to the coupe. Also happens in cabriolets. It sounds as if your jacking points are correct. I see some support the car on the outside area of the torsion bar cover, but I prefer the inner part as close the outer sheet metal as possible. I would think your car is already lowered since it is European? Since your going to have the rear spring plate off, it would be a great time to go for torsion bar upgrades. Just go conservative with the sizing if it is just for street use.

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Well spotted, yes I am British, although the car is actually a US model (49 state spec.).

So I am lowering it, the spring plates are coming off so I will do the bushings too.

Couldn't decide if larger torsion bars are really worth it for a Targa.
The ride is pretty firm, at present the car lacks feedback. It seems to corner fine, it just takes some courage to trust it.

Maybe some driver training would be wise.

Now I can see how much the body does flex would a strut brace help, even though torsion bar suspension doesn't significantly load the shock towers?

Jon
I have an 83 sc and are currently doing/ have done the same mods as yourself so here goes.
I noticed a big difference with the SO2' on the front, the car feals much more secure and confidence inspiring. I am from southtampton too so recommend Micheldever tyres for the best price and no wheel damage fitting. The car is currently off the road having just fitted turbo tie rods and I am just about to fit the neatrix bushes so will be able to say soon the effects from these. Still pondering about larger rear torsion bars and where to get the best prices for new bilsteins. Rebuilding the front brakes with new discs pads and caliper seals ensured that the car stopped swerving on braking. It now stops at any speed in a straight line.

Bruce 83 sc

It seems like you guys are quite happy with the SO2's. What is your general opinion on tires? Which are the best for an 88 911 3.2?

I too have SO2's also. Mods I have done: Turbo tie rods, camber strut, front, rear torsion bars (22,28), Bilstein sport shocks, adjustable front, back sway bars, (22mm), adjustable spring plate, polyurethane bushings, 17" 8 and 9" rims, 225 and 255 tyres (!), lowered to Euro specs,. Goal, zero body roll!!!

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Where you thinking of hollow or solid torsion bars? Iv'e heard good things about sway away, but has anyone tried the hollow bars. Bruce Anderson mentioned both the hollow and solid in the Handbook, but did not mention the beneifits or downfalls of using one over the other. Any ideas?

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Paul
78SC Targa

Jon,

I am not sure if the jackstand locations you used are a problem, or not. The front location is not a reinforced location, and the rear location is dependent on the rubber spring plate bushing's not to 'crush' or give any. I use the torsion bar tube itself just inboard of the end casting, a very secure location with no rubber involved ... at the rear. At the front, I use the front mount for the A-arm (control arm) ... just behind the bolt-on, 'S-shaped' skid ... also a reinforced and secure location.

One note: you can't install the Neatrix bushings while the car is supported the way you have it now!

I didn't refer to any magazine or manual for my locations, just practical experience ... and I haven't had any problems opening the doors since 1978 on my Targa using the above locations! So, I would suggest jacking one side of the car and relocating your jackstands, two at a time, front and rear, before starting your extensive project. Whether you use the factory jack or a floor jack, I don't think there is any danger with the wheels off. When I raise my car onto jack stands, I don't change the height on each side more than 3" at a time, alternating sides ... it takes extra time moving the jack from side to side, but no slippages or accidents, ever! Good luck!
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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 12-07-2000).]

And were your mods successful? I suppose your 89 911 is about the same as mine (88 911), so one question: the tires being ovesized, did you have any problems fitting them?

No problem with fitment, but I am using Fikse forged 3 piece wheels made to my offset. Fuchs can't fit those tires.

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8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line.