Troy, you mentioned that you have already replaced two of the 3 sensors? Two sensors are the same part #, the speed and reference sensor, the other sensor is the TDC sensor, and it is only used for diagnostic test equipment, it does nothing as far as the operation of the engine, like the speed and reference sensors do. It could be removed, and your engine would not know the difference with it or without it.

Sorry to resurect this thread but any adverse effects on alternative BMW sensors? My Connectors have crumbled and need to be replaced.

No adverse effects so far.

Since they are just sending impulses to the DME for ignition timing there should be no other problems as long as the engine can start and runs on.

The new connectors also make the engine compartment look way better than did those cracked old ones with black silicone glue around the bracket.

Found two sites selling them for $57 USD.

Has anyone compared the signal outputs on these two (versions) WITH an o-scope?

just curious as to waveform similarities..

Thanx!

Except for the extra length, would the signal vary if all remaining components are identical? Please edify

Where did ya find em for $57.00

Update:

The BMW Sensors is maybe less than 1/2 inch longer.

Note: removing the Reference sensor is easy enough due to the fact it is housed by a sleeve and slipped right out. However the Speed sensor does not have the housing and on mine it siezed and could not be removed so I had to remove the bracket to physically tear out the sensor.

If you do not have to replace the speed sensor, don't.

It appears heat has expanded mine and made it impossible to remove by hand.

The sensors are liken to a light bulb, if you twist the sensors to install them you will most likely damage the new sensor, like a light bulb, twisting the bulb beyond it's limits will twist and break the filament wires. Once damamged you will not be able to start your baby.

After 10 hours, I finally gave up and brought it to my wrench and he figured out that I damaged the Speed sensor. He placed a known good one and wouldn't you know it it started right up. Expensive Lessen Learned.

The unsure purchase.....there seems to be several listing of various BMW fits to this part number, 12-14-1-708-619-M14. Anyone have a recomendation or are they all the same.

1984 911 3.2 ref sensor replacement w/bmw part #.

Thanks, Dave

I simply ordered two BMW 12-14-1-708-619-M14 sensors from Pelican. They've worked perfectly for over a year on my 911.

One of my friends is one who confirmed to our local group that the BMW sensors work.

Our cross-reference search yielded the original Bosch part number: 0 261 210 002 which appears to be from E24 635, E24 735, E28 535, E28 533 BMW models. See page 16 of this Bosch application manual

http://apps.bosch.com.au/products/sa...on_modules.pdf.

On Pelicanparts, this equates to the sensor for 535 cars from 1985-1988 and 533 cars from 1983-1984 which is BMW part number 12-14-1-708-619-M14

These sensors are working great (been going strong in Jay's car for two years now), the plugs are the same. So there is no need to buy the Porsche part number!

Great, thanks for the follow up...ordered 12-14-1-708-619-m14 from out host.

I have used that BMW sensor in the 84-89 Carrera they plug right in! They seem to be the same part as the Porsche part just different number. Will work just fine.

Where can I find some instructions on replacing these sensors, I'm in a no start situation on my Carrera and have already replaced the DME relay as well as checked the fuel pump relay so running out of options to get this thing going. Right now not getting any noiuse for the fuel pump but not sure when it is supposed to make noise, is this when the engine is cranking or when the key is turned to the on position.

Pump comes on engine cranking, put a test light on the fuel pump fuse while cranking the test light must come on. The fuse is in the front trunk fuse block. You can also jumper 12V to this fuse to be sure the pump runs.

911 1985 won't start after engin wash
 

My 1985 911 was working fine, until I washed the engine, now it won't start. Replaced the DME realy, checked the connections to the timing position and speed sensors, and they are worn but seem to be working.

The car will only start in hi idle for a minute in fast idle, the it slows down and starts failing, if I disconnect the Head Temperature Sensor.

Any ideas???

first thing I would do is check your distributor cap and plug wire connectors for moisture, and completely dry them off....this happens frequently with our cars.

If this doesn't do the trick, unplug your CHT sensor again and jumper the connector (not the sensor) with a paper clip. If your car continues to run while jumpered, you've found your problem.

the BMW part is 900 ohm vs 1000 for the Porsche. It makes no difference as long as the ecu sees it.

Micker,

Thanks for the info - so, that is apparently a meaningless difference?

Kurt,

No, i have worked with many different setups, and my experience is that sensors in the 4-500 ohm range are quite sensitive to correct gap settings. The "weak" sensors don't like to be further than 0.5mm away.