who wants to hear some more rebuild rambling???

Tonight I got to work splitting the case.
I removed all of the case nuts as well as the through-bolts. Then I tried gently splitting the case halfs.
No luck.
Did a bit more tapping...
Still wouldn't budge.
Ok..."I'm missing something.."
I stopped and took a break and returned cool headed to think everything through again.
I said to myself " ok, I got all of these,...got these, got that one, and the ones behind the flywheel (at the same time I looked at the flywheel)...
Hmmmm...the flywheel is still on the car so HOW did I get the nuts off that are behind it??
Doh, Ok, I'm an idiot. Perfect example of what happens when you get so excited you start rushing a bit and get tunnel vision.
Alright, so I need to remove the flywheel but how do I do that with no jugs on the case?
I was concerned about trying to break loose the flywheel nuts and jamming the piston skirts against the case because the crank would surely try to turn with the bolts.
I looked around for a while and found a double closed end wrench. I slipped one end of the wrench over one of the tranny studs and the other end over a pressure plate bolt hole and bolt. Ha! just like a flywheel lock, just without the lock
So I got the flywheel off and removed the nuts.
I tapped for a while longer and I was starting to get concerned because I wasn't seeing any movement. I almost gave up and was thinking of posting a message on Pelican about my problem. As these thoughts ran through my mind, I saw the light!
Oh, the beautiful light! (through the case)
After it finally broke free I started to remove one half and all of a sudden I met some pretty strong resistance. Like something was definately making contact with something solid. So, I stopped again and started looking.
The problem was obvious to anyone who has ever split a case without removing the Pistons first!
Second "Doh!"
"Ok dumbass, lets remove the damn pistons so I can get this thing apart"
I got all of them off and only lost one wrist pin clip which went flying across the hobby shop at "Moch oh ***** shaggy".
After that I seperated the halfs and removed the crankshaft. No horror to report as to the condition of the bearings.
All of the main bearings looked the same, probably worn, but not really anything visable. (even the mechanic on hand said he thought they looked pretty good)
I can see a bit of wear on the intermediate shaft bearing and on the #8 bearing. Nothing unusual for such a high mileage engine.
I didn't have time to remove the oil pump or con. rods but I did take a flashlight and looked through the holes in the pump and didn't see any pitting or sludge in there. The only referance to the oil pump I have ever seen is to "check for wear or excessive pitting" but I haven't really ever figured out what that really meant.
Woo hoo...it's serious now...no turning back.


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Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

Leland, I am truly envious of all the fun and experience you are having. I only wish I had the time, a fully tooled garage and extra motor to do the same. Thank's for posting your daily progress. How about some pictures. If anything, take pictures for your own documentation. After your completed you can always post them in a shot-by-shot engine rebuild. Did you see the web site old_skul has put together. That would be a perfect place to document your work. And a perfect place for you to share your accomplishment! Good Luck. I look forward to hearing your continued progress.

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Paul
78SC Targa

[This message has been edited by pbs911 (edited 12-12-2000).]

Keep going, this is interesting as we may also someday be in the same spot. Thanks for the information.

Les

Leland's already been told to take pictures.

Congratulations, Leland. Soon you'll be at my favorite point in a major operation...the point where you click the ratchet so it puts fasteners BACK ON. Get everything machined, reassemble and, how do they say this in France, "Voila."

Are you gonna use the Folgers HI-PO exhaust upgrade from the other car?

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'83 SC

Make sure none of your "friends" throw any extra nuts and bolts in the containers you have....nothing worse than having extra parts when done....

Beware of anyone with shirts that say Honda power or Type"R" rules...they are NOT your friends....trust me.

Yup, wish I could be there to see all of that. Damn!
I know the excitement is tremendous. Exciting, scarey....

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Kurt B
1984 911 Carrera Cabriolet
75 914 1.8

Leland,

Sounds great, so far! I knew you would be able to figure our something to hold the flywheel in place, and you triumphed!

And, you found that area of the crankcase webs that Bruce says can be 'boat-tailed' for less aerodynamic resistance inside! Any thoughts about doing the mod on p. 178?

Did you discover any oil leakage/seeping at the case-to-cylinder joints?

Only one wrist-pin clip launched into low-earth orbit, huh? Well, there ARE worse things to drop or lose control of!

Did you get those top compression ring side gaps measured?

Funny how the adrenalin works so well during engine rebuilds when the weather is 15 degrees F outside in December!!!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Thanks for all of the replies so far.
No Foldgers Team racing for this car, Jim..

Warren, nah, I really don't think Boat-tailing the case flutes would really get me to work that much faster . But it would be cool if I had money to blow on neat stuff.

No I didn't find any sign of leakage between the cyl.s and the case.

Very funny about the "worse things to drop" remark... ha-ha... verrrry funny...

Anyway, I tried to find a set of metric feeler guages at the hobby shop. All they has was a standard set that had the metric equivelents on them. So, they were all odd ball sizes and none of them would work. I think that type of measurement will be left up to my mechanic. I'm too worried about making a beginners mistake.
Thanks again,


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Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

I forgot to ask a couple of other questions.
My injection lines looked like crap. Then I realized that it was just the rubber (insulator?) sleeve around portions of the lines that was badly cracked and deteriorated. I ripped a bit of it away and was supprised to find that the hose under it looked brand new.
My question is: what do these "sleeves" do and are they nessecary? At first I thought they were there to protect against freezing, then I thought no, there are only portions that have the sleeve and that would defeat the point, right? Then I thought that maybe they are there for protection against rubbing through in spots. Any ideas?

And second, how do you remove the injectors off of the intake runners?
I got the lines loose but they are still in the runners. They look like they require a special type of wrench or something... what gives?



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Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

I am also curious about the sleeves-and even more to get a replacement.

For the injectors, you usually just pull them out. Sounds easy, but is not, as the O-Ring fitting is pretty tight. Here, the Haynes manual has a good hint to "fabricate" a pulling device by using a piece of cable and welding it to a nut which can then be put on the injector.
It worked perfectly for me, and I assume that's also good for an SC.

Keep us posted!!!

Jens

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Leland:

I appreciate the blow by blow "real world" comments on your project. I am glad you had your "oh ***** shaggy" experience with your engine and not in your real job! I am enjoying your posts. Good luck.

Eric
'83SC

Keep up the good work.
Good luck !

What is the Hobby Shop ? Is this a place
where you can rent time to work on your car ?

Joe A

The Auto Hobby Shop is the Valhalla for the do-It-Yourselfer; They vary from base to base but most have all the equipment of a large garage has, lifts, wheel balancers, presses, and standard tools galore( not much metric as the military supply system has mostly standard stuff) You can rent a bay for around $30 a month as an average; some have dedicated engine rebuild stations that you can rent for a few dollars a month(engine stand, drip pans, parts tables; the works)
All the ones I used when I was in the service would charge a few bucks for the use or a lift and if you got into a pinch for time you could leave your car on the lift for a few more bucks!

They usually have hours like from like noon to 8 or 9pm and are open sat/sun and closed Mondays!

The ones I used were Navy and Marine Corps Auto Hobby Shops; so I imagine that Leland's Air Force Hobby shop is way better! They tend to spend all their money on the facilities; run out before they get to the runways and get more from congress to finish; while the Navy and Marine Corps spends all the money on the equipment and has to refurbish old WWII buildings

Yes, the injectors just pull out. You might not need any special tool since your runners are on a bench. The o-rings shoudl be replaced. The plastic injector holder probably unscrews. if there is a female hex pattern in the top of the injector holder then use a big allen wrench and they unscrew. Unfortunately, mine do not unscrew, they press in like the injectors. This means anothter o-ring is need on the outside of the holder. And the BEST time to try to get these out is when the runners are on a bench. If you have the non-screw-out type DO remove them and replace the o-ring between the holder and the runner. It will be like a flat piece of hard plastic instead of a round rubber o-ring.

My '83 has metal fuel lines. Presumably this is better, but with them, you CANNOT remove an injector without first detaching the line. Unless you don't mind bending the line. Bruce does not recommend this.

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'83 SC

What's up, Leland???

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa