HA YES!

Unobtanium. Your problems are solved no need to worry any longer :o)

Check page 1 post number 2 of this thread ..... :)
And here:
http://www.************.com/c-37-engine-ignition-distributor.aspx?pagenum=3

Thanks Dennis, I wasn't familiar with that site. Looks like they have all of the distributor bits.
Ian

I just found out about that site when I was reading a recent distributor bushing replacement thread. They have a lot of distributor parts and services. My parts came quickly.
Good luck with your rebuild.

Great thread, thanks to everyone for the help.
All cleaned up with new trigger coil and green wire.
Runs like a top.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376069285.jpg

I know all this is old, but its great info. Thanks to all who posted here. Gotta tackle this job real soon.

Subscribed

Phillips head screws
 

Thanks Gunter for starting this workshop.

I am Rebuilding my 83SC, was reading about the distributor, and decided to refresh it. What I found was I had 3 Phillips head screws instead of the Allen heads like the other post. I cleansed the slots but no luck, so I will try the Roberts head and let you all know.

Also What grease is recommended? Can you recommend a source for the cap spring clip?
Thanks

bad thing about just posting a link.

anyone have the part number?

One is ECH MP304 (the one shown above) and the other is BA 1800144. The part numbers are contained within the original URL in the original post.

UPDATE: 07/28/2016 per a PM request on the wires..................yea, it's been five years.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469726594.jpg

NOTE: Never take the top part of a Pertronix Ignitor magnetic pick up disk from one set, and mix use with the lower half assembly from another kit/box.

I suspect these are matched pairs (top and bottom halves) and let's just say keeping sets together is the more cautious approach. Use everything in the box, every time, no shortcuts.

I am in the process of taking apart a distributor for a '79 911. I have the magnetic pulse generator loose and ready to come out, but I cannot figure out how to remove the vacuum advance module. Gunter says to use a "slight upward movement and wiggling the inside connector arm downward at the same time." I'm not quite sure what this means. I have tried with no result. I appreciate ideas. Thanks.

Success! Ironic that right after I posted on this thread, I was able to get it out. Now that I have access to the end of the connector arm, I understand how it connects to the internals.

Is it possible during this process to swap the single vacum for a dual vacum in a 930 dizzy and if so can the dual vacum be bought separately and from where?
Apologise I have limited knowledge but had heard that the dual vacum was a better solution in a 930?
Boydyrs

Bumping this thread. Does anyone have a web site for spare distributor parts?

Thanks

David

Try parts klassik dot com
They have a wealth of fiddly parts that are not available on our host's site, otherwise I would just recommend our host.

Hi looking for distributor with either part nos, 0237301004 or 007? 
Or Can anyone advise where I can source the magnetic pick up, coil and advance unit for a 911sc clockwise dizzy or spare dizzy?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1565199278.png

Gunter, thanks for the writeup and illustrations. I decided to do mine last night. It's a 1980 SC engine I put in a 1973 911T. It took me about an hour and a half, start to finish, not counting re-timing the engine.

My dizzy wasn't really dirty. It was a low-mileage engine when I got it, and I haven't driven it much since I put in the SC engine. However, there was some reddish crud around the lower inside of the housing, which I'm sure was the original grease that went into the flyweight assembly and got flung around the inside over the years. After cleaning everything up, I decided to use motorcycle chain lube for the lubricant, because chain lube is designed to not fling off a chain. I figure that's a good property for this application too.

Let me add two amendments to your initial posting:
1. The 3 screws that hold down the magnet coil assembly are staggered, so they can only go in one way--no need to scratch mark the ring.
2. The two screws that hold the cap clips on the side of the housing interfered slightly with getting my magnet ring assembly out, so I had to loosen them a turn or two. Look for that interference if you have trouble removing it.

In a related project, I also replaced the intake boot on top of the engine, since it had cracks that I had glued previously.
Note to others: If you have the original intake boot, check it carefully for cracks (almost certain at this age). It will cause various idle problems that may cause you to chase other things trying to fix it. Mine had cracks in the rubber just above the two clamps that hold the boot onto the air metering housing and the throttle body. Pelican has them for about $95.00.

And I took out the decel valve while I was in there and had easy access to the front of the engine with the boot out of the way. I wrote that up separately on a thread titled "Deceleration Valve Help."

Hi, I am at the point where I am about to pull my distributor in order to replace the infamous green wire. My question is how important is it to find z1 or TDC? Why can’t I mark up everything before I were to pull the distributor and after swapping the wire reinstall it based on all my previous markings. Is there something critical about doing this and having to be TDC? Thanks

You could, but finding TDC Compression stroke for #1 lets you have everything set up, and for me, gets me focused on what’s happening. Just in case the inevitable ‘Murphy’s law’ happens by, you have quick reference to everything you need. Crank position being key. I like to use a whistle-stop to find tdc on any cylinder. It’s fast and easy. Unless you have the intake valve cover off. In that case you can simply watch #1 intake close as you rotate crank in right direction. As soon as the valve closes look to line-up the mark on the belt pulley with the case seam.