Aeroquip Oil Fittings

[randywebb]

My cooler (Earls) has the red & blue anodized Al fittings on it - US sizes - I think those are Aeroquip.

My question is whether there is something that can rotate when I turn the ends (where these fittings join onto the stock Porsche oil lines)?

I can't undo the fittings since there are dual lines/hoses -- my hope is that the Aeroquip fittings have a rotating part -- do they??

[Grady Clay]

Randy,

Please post some pictures.
Do you have the original invoice with the Aeroquip, Russell, or Earl’s part number?

Best,
Grady

[TimT]

Some of those fitting are swivel type ie you can rotate them others are not..

[TimT]

swivel type pictured, I dont have a non swivel to show

[randywebb]

Here's a pic. None of the coupler fittings rotate (easily) - I don't have big US wrenches so I haven't torqued on anything with the Stilson you see in the pic - yet. If it looks like a certain component is the swiveling part, that would make it safer to apply torque there....

I have no invoice, etc. All I know is that one of the 6 previous owners put it on during the past 33 years...

Thanks.

[randywebb]

OK -- the pic doesn't display when I look at the thread... ???

[randywebb]

another try....

[bigbrotherjohn]

not all of the aeroquip fittings swivel but some of them do, yours look like the swiveling type try turning the red part, if it is a swivel connector then the red part will turn along with the hose and the thin blue hex. You can also seperate the thin blue hex from the red part and then the hose will slip out of the red part and you can turn it that way if it doesnt swivel how it is now. Hope that helps.

[randywebb]

Not sure I understand - my first pic (which would not post for some reason) showed a kink in the hose to the right. When I turned the leftmost blue connector it caused the kink.

So if I wrench on the blue nut and the red nut it should rotate at that junction?

Also, how do you separate the thin blue hex from the red part? By unscrewing or do these things have some sort of slip coupling in them (remove by sliding axially)??

[mackskibum]

Looks to me like a swivel- place a backup wrench on the left-most blue fitting and turn the right blue fitting with another wrench.

[mackskibum]

To answer you other questions- the left blue fitting appears to be an adapter to mate the right blue fitting with your oil line. The right blue fitting should be a swivel head. The small blue hex and the red fitting appear to be part of a field attachable (non crimp) fitting using a ferrule (compression) fitting, so the small blue hex and the red hex should come apart to expose the ferrule and allow disassembly. The "hose" looks to be a braided tubing teflon or some sort of poly construction.

Hope this helps!

[Grady Clay]

OK,

See EDIT below for correction.
This is the INCORRECT version.
I labeled the hex A-E from left to right.
A = Metric male fitting on oil pipe.
B = Metric female end of adapter B-C
C = US female end of adaptor B-C
D = US hose fitting male end
E = US hose fitting hose collar
Pipe is to the left, hose is to the right.
A is part of the pipe assembly.
B-C is a metric-to-US adapter.
D-E is the screw-together US hose end and should be
considered part of the hose for this purpose.
To get apart, Hold D stationary with a thin wrench.
These are commonly available where fittings are sold.
Turn C with another wrench. The C part of the adaptor that is
closest to the camera goes “up.” C is a nut that screws onto D.
Once the connection C to D is apart, then the connection A to B
can be unscrewed.


EDIT EDIT
EDIT TO CORRECT ABOVE

I labeled the hex A-E from left to right.

A = Metric male fitting on oil pipe.
B = Metric female end of adapter B, male end
of adapter is under nut C.
C = US female end nut of hose fitting C-D-E
D = US hose fitting C-D-E center part
E = US hose fitting C-D-E hose collar

Pipe is to the left, hose is to the right.

A is part of the pipe assembly.

B is a metric-to-US adapter.

C-D-E is the screw-together US hose end and should be
considered part of the hose for this purpose.


To get apart, Hold B stationary with a wrench.

Turn C with another wrench. The C part of the adaptor that is closest to the camera goes “down.” C is a nut that screws onto B.

Once the connection B to C is apart or loose, then the connection A to B can be unscrewed.

C-D-E is part of the hose assembly.

End EDIT



Best,
Grady

[smdubovsky]

Grady is close, bot not right. I have these exact ones on my car. (And had to put together ENTIRELY too many AN fitting for my TWM EFI setup)

B is the metric to AN adapter
CDE is the complete AN fitting

That does NOT look like a swivel fitting.

C is held onto DE by a pin that gets inserted into a hole (look around the right hand side of C). B has outside threads and a male flare, C has inside threads, and D has the female flare.

Put a big wrench on B and another on C and unscrew. It will all become obvious how it all works once you have it apart

FWIW, an AN swivel fitting is on that allows the fitting/hose to rotate once the flares are clamped together. It is helpfull to have ONE fitting on each hose be a swivel - keeps the hose from twisting and kinking. Its almost mandatory w/ a hose that has an angeled fitting on both ends. Else, you cant turn the one of the fitting the right direction once you install (Imagine two 90 deg fittings. Use your thump and index fingers to form Ls. Now put both of your thumbs together to form a U. Swivel one index finger down - this is what a swivel fitting allows (one finger to point up/down/front/back/wherever).) They have some sort of o-ring and therefore HAVE to be more leak prone, so I tend to avoid them on anything that has at least one straight fitting (plus they cost more). BUT, again they are almost mandatory w/ TWO angled fittings (only one needs to be a swivel).

SMD

(EDIT: Crap, I need to learn to spell

[Grady Clay]

SMD,

Good eye. I looked for the pin and didn’t see it. Looking at the lower set of fittings I can see the thread of adapter B going under the nut C of hose end fitting C-D-E.

I’ll edit my above post to correct it. Thanks.

I agree about swivel fittings. In this case there is probably an angle fitting on the hose assembly at the oil cooler end. When reassembling, have everything tight except B-to-C. Have that snug where it can still turn. Once everything is in place then tighten B and C against each other. This reduces the chance if installing the hose with a twist preload on it.

Best,
Grady

[randywebb]

Thanks Grady & SMD - that did it.

I didn't even have to tear the fittings up with the Stilson wrenches. Altho I did commit the smelly tactical error of using pb Blaster instead of Kroil in an enclosed garage...

[JohnJL]

Guys,
Anyone have the threadpitch/diameter of the meteric-to-AN adapter or even better an Earls or Aeroquip or Summit part number? I don't want to disassemble just for the measurement since shipping will take 2-3 weeks...

Also, what AN size? -10? -12?

thanks!

[Early_S_Man]

John,

That appears to be AN-16 hose and fitting, based on no reduction in OD size from the metric 22 mm tubing.

Here is a page from the BAT/Mocal catalog ... M30x1.5 X -16AN adapter is the appropriate one, though not the one on Randy's car.

I will repeat here a suggestion I have made to several Pelicans ... if you take a late model factory short junction hose [going from factory hard line to any front cooler other than the trombone] and carefully cut off the crimp rings, then remove the female M30 x 1.5 fittings ... they will slip directly into AN-16 hose! Another crimp ring can be fitted at a local hydraulic hose shop ... very low cost metric fitting on a AN-16 hose! I did this on my own fabricated front cooler system to join the AN-16 hose to the return scavenge fitting on the oil tank!

[JohnJL]

Thanks Warren, great suggestion too!

[jhelgesen]

If you contact BAT in Florida, they also have hose fittings with 30mm ends. I used those on my cooler setup and did not need to use the adapters.

[randywebb]

I think it is generally a good idea to cut off and keep the factory fittings on old hoses and broken or crimped metal pipes. The fittings could come in handy some day...


John - you might post the full name or address for BAT to help others find them.