Dropping the steering rack...
 

Is it absolutely necesary to also remove (or loosen) the dust boot allen bolts? Those buggers are on there good.

Todd

What allen bolts? I had circular springs holding mine on like a belt.

The allen bolts up by the coupler, in the smugglers box....

Can you not just loosen the clamp on the coupler and slide the lower spline-shaft down?
Center the steering wheel and hold it with bungi cords so you have it right when re-installing the rack.
What are you doing?
Turbo tie rods?
Bump-steer kit?

Gunter, I was hoping that's all I had to do. I've got that loosened and the car on stands so far.

I'm doing turbo tie rods, poly bronze bushings, bump steer, ball joints and I think monball's. Maybe some paint in there as well. Next winter will be torsion and sway bars perhaps.

Remember that the clamp bolt needs to be removed, not just loosened, in order for the shaft to drop out of the coupler.

It helps to loosen allen bolts around the bushing so that rack can be moved around a little when dropping it.

Ok, so I've got the whole front suspension off the car, including the cross member. I'm trying to get the steering rack to drop. It wiggles quite freely, but doesn't seem to want to slide out.

Frankc, you mention the coupler bolt has to come out, not just be loose. Why is this? Does the bolt also go through part of the shaft? It doesn't look like it. My coupler is situated in such a way that the bolt won't come all the way out. If it really must come out to drop the rack, should I just turn the steering wheel a bit until the bolt is in a position where it can be completely removed?

There is a detent in the shaft that the bolt sits in (like the ball joint shafts) - you have to remove it to separate - rotate the steering wheel till you can. Everything will be aligned when you ..... get it aligned - you will want to tell the alignment specialist to loosen the coupling to adjust 'paired' toe rather than adjust both tie rods or the steering wheel nut. After new tie rods it is possble to have the rack off center. A good alignment will addesss this and the indexing of the steering coupler. If the rack isn't centered you will not have equal steering limits on R vs L and get wheel rub etc. Might affect parking - but not hitting the apex right.


The allens will budge - a sturdy hex wrench or hex socket is best.

toddu,

Here is a link I posted a while back that might be of some assistance for reference pics and what I did when I had my rack out. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=224112&highlight=diy+ra ck

Here is a pic from that post showing a cutout on the rack input shaft that IIRC, is where the coupler bolt passes by it. It traps the shaft and indeed needs to be removed to allow the shaft to come out. It is the shaft at the top of the picture and the cutout is on the right side at the top.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1176079738.jpg

Oh, fantastic!!! This is a little more clear now. I will try this a little later today then. If I get it out, and feeling brave, I may rebuild the rack then.

You guys are great!!!

Todd,

Todd, a simple test to see if your lower bearing is good is to rotate the input shaft back and forth.....if there is no lag/slop prior to the rack moving back and forth, your lower bearing is still intact. Mine was toast and allowed the pinion gear to travel up and down prior to actually driving the rack.

Ok, I'm still struggling with this f'n steering rack.

The coupler bolt is completly out, rack wiggles like crazy, but it won't drop out.

One allen bolt on the boot "clip" is rounded, so that's not comming out anytime soon. Shouldn't have to come out (well, should come out, but shouldn't prevent the rack from dropping). Does the coupler clamp squeeze that hard, even with the bolt out? I tried to spread it a bit, but it's not very flexible. This is the very last step in my front end removal, and has been the biggest PITA out of all of it (even getting the ball joints out was way easier).

Maybe I'll just leave the f'r in and do the tie rods with it in the car. Can I re-pack it while it's in the car? Should just be that access cover on the bottom that I can easily get to.

Frustrated,
Todd

Hmmm Todd, it has been awhile since I did mine, but maybe you can wedge the clamp open a tad then spray with penetrating oil. I seem to remember having to jiggle mine around a bit. When you say "boot clip", what are you referring to? You did remove the rubber encased bearing clamp near the u-joint coupler right? If not, that is the problem. I think allen head of one of mine stripped and I had to get creative with a chisel and use it at an angle on the head of the bolt and smacked it with a hammer a bit to loosen that bolt enough that the allen would then remove it the rest of the way.

No, that is the clamp that has the bolts I'm having issues with. I was afraid I would have to get those out. Maybe I'll be drilling them out.

Thanks Tim.

Ok, finally got the rack out. Biggest pain in the a-- thing I've done so far. The only hard part was getting those damn allen head bolts out. Top one required a similar chisel method as you mention Tim. The bottom one had enough "allen" left on it to where I could hammer in a allen key socket and hit it with an impact wrench.

Patience and determination....

Thanks for the tips Tim.

Todd

Yeah but just think how easy it will be to do again someday since you will no doubt slather everything with Never Sieze before re-assembling!

Glad to hear you got it apart!

Ok Tim.... one last question and then I should be done pestering you about the steering rack.

Moves just fine, so I think my bearings are ok. In fact, while I was removing the tie rods, I accidentally applied a little inward preasure, and the rack moved quite easily. When putting the rack back in the car, can I eye-ball center, and then center the steering wheel to match (as the current position is not going to match where I now have the steering wheel)?

I don't think it is all that critical, but I do not recall a place on the rack where a centering tool is installed like some other cars have.

The Bentley manual simply says to turn the wheel lock to lock and count how many revolutions you get, then back the wheel up half tthat amount. Set your toe in this position, and if necessary, I guess you can just re-install the steering wheel in a different position on it's splined shaft, so that it is straight.

You can also leave the clamp on the U-joint loose to center the steering wheel.
Center the rack to find the "Sweet spot", tie the steering wheel down with bungy cords, then clamp the U-joint on the column.
That saves you taking the wheel off.

Found this on a search and I am in the middle of this. Seems like the best info so I'm subscribed...