I think 3.2 P&Cs might be almost useless, unless the better exhaust is used. Stock SC heat exchangers cannot properly get rid of the exhaust from 3 liters of compbustion, let along 3.2

And the CIS system may not work as well either. AT least this is my suspicion.

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'83 SC

Well, OK, like to have had a heart attack until I figured the price was in German Marks!!! DM4950 = $2413.22 for the 3.2 conv. set at 1/05/2001 conversion rate from the Federal Reserve!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

I just looked in Bruce Anderson's book, according to him:
"The only changes made in these conversions were a new set of pistons and cylinders and resetting the fuel mixture, yet 220 hp was claimed as the output"

I guess what it boils down to is if you need to replace your pistons and cylinders anyway, what is the cost difference between stock 3.0 set or the 3.2? Is that difference worth 40 hp?

Tom

I think the 220 hp would be with the SSI type headers also. Not the more restrictive cross-over cat type.

Hey Leland,

With regard to "220,000 miles so that means they are no good" is flat out not true, BUT with 220,000 miles they usually are worn out because of not replacing the oil enough or bad fuel adjustments that wash the oil from the rings and wear the ring grooves of the pistons. It is just that I think your mechanic knows that at 220,000 miles they "should" be pretty worn out, but I have seen pistons and cylinders with more miles look and measure better then a 80,000 miles motor. It all comes down to "how" they where treated while in the motor, not just miles.

Now, if your cylinders are Nik, the cylinders maybe still be fine but you may just need pistons or the pistons maybe fine and you just need cylinders OR maybe you just need 1 piston???

See any mechanic is here to provide YOU with a good running motor and to make money. Now, how they will rebuild "YOUR" motor is a lot different then how they would rebuild their "OWN" motor. They will not put their neck out to save YOU money, but on their own car they will use their head then their cash. This is not just mechanics, you could be roofer or plumber ect.

So, take your time and just go by what the Dealer calls out on the tolerances, or send me your pistons and cylinders and we will check them out for free, Motor Meister will inspect anyone's parts for free advise in "if the can be used".

Mahle Pistons and cylinders are not cheap because of one main issue, they ARE THE BEST quality you can buy. Soooo, slow down the toss them away process, find out if they are good or not. Also did you ever wonder when you go to a swapmeet and you see a mechanic out there selling 3 to 4 boxes of pistons and cylinders that are used, but good?

Where did they come from? Hmmmm? That could be your pistons and cylinders Leland, so take your time and get them inspected, let me know if you need any help.

Roy at http://www.motormeister.com

This has been a very educational thread for me but I'm also interested in EWPurdy's question, can somebody answer? Thanks in advance.

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Rob Fix
'78 SC Targa

Robfix,
To answer your question,
I'm pretty sure that both Alusil and Nikasil cylinders were used on SC's. I think it was Warren that told me that if they say "Mahle" on the bottom that they are in fact Mahle clyinders.
Mine are thank goodness.

Roy, I appreciate the offer very much. Perhaps I can give you a call and see what we can do.
I just got done thumbing through the Boise phone book and the machine shops listed seemed to be more industrial than automotive.

Oh, and whats the deal with this refurbishing of Mahle cylinders? Can it be done?...honed or something? Does honing take the plating off of the cylinder walls?
Options???
thanks,

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Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

Nikasil cylinders are shiny on the working surface inside the cylinder from the Nickel component of the plating, whereas the Alusil cylinders are a 'dull' aluminum working surface.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

In telling what you have either Alu or Nik, Warren is right was is a shinny inner bore (Nik) and the other is a dull gray (Alu), if you are still confused, then take a little sand paper and if you can scratch the wall its Alu , if it is slippery inside it is Nik.

You can work the wall of a Alu and a Nik wall, it is an art more then anything else. See the Nik is kinda easier since there is a protected Nik wall coating, but if you hone it normally you will damage or pull the coating off the cylinder walls, and on a Alu it is even harder to work the wall since there is no coating at all it is just bare aluminum, it is more of a polishing job then honing, but you need to work the surface or the rings will not break in, that is why you will here of the walls "washing off", what this is the gas washed the oil off the rings not letting them break in good, and you will loose compression slowly. The old days when pistons and cylinders where under $900 a set new, Mechanics would just toss them away, well them there days are over partner http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/frown.gif.

When re-using old cylinders and pistons, you have to use the right piston rings, the right break in oil and the fuel system has to be correct.

Roy at http://www.motormeister.com