911 SC oil line removal

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 10:30 AM

I'm performing the SC conversion from OEM heat exchangers to SSI exhaust.

As we know > with this conversion > one must remove the old oil line from the thermostat > and replace with the oil line designed for the SSI. In particular > it is the rearmost/deepest/most difficult of the two lines connected to the thermostat.

I've searched the archives and read some different techniques..

I'm currently preparing the lines by hitting them with PB blaster.. and when my Kroil comes in > I'll use that too.

I'v read of heat cycling.. and I sued heat cycling to remove some stubborn barrel nuts from exhaust studs > using a MAPP torch > heat the barrel nut to cherry red > douse with water >> repeat > heat cherry red > douse with water > and the barrel nut came off nice and easy.

I've also read of "heat cycling" of the oil lines but with just running the engine.

Question: Has anyone used a small bit of heat from a torch/MAPP/propane on the oil line head> I'm not talking cherry red > but a "moderate amount" of torch > and dousing with water??

I realize that there is oil in the line > and too much heat in the line might be a real bad thing...

I'm waiting for the special 36mm wrenches

Do I have to remove the forward most line [thermostat to oil tank] to get access to the rear line? I'm thinking I do..

appreciate any been-there-done-that advise > techniques > what worked for me info

thanks

kgl

Shawn 357 · 03-26-2007, 10:47 AM

I didn't use a torch. I did hit them with Liquid Wrench (PB Blaster is probably better) a couple of times a day for a couple of days before I took off the line and it was fine. I was able to just remove and replace the line without messing with the other line. As long as you hit it with PB Blaster or similar a lot before you try to loosen the fitting it should be fine.
-Shawn
P.S.
Just for reference my car is a 1982 SC

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 10:53 AM

What tool did you use?

I've ordered the Pelican special 36mm wrench.. and the long handled 36/32mm.

However > in my research of this topic > I've seen where a guy took a normal 36mm box end and made it a home brew "line wrench" > like what you use on brake caliper lines.. also torched it and bent the head to provide a optimum fit in the limited space of the thermostat..

I'm seriously considering making my own 36mm line wrench> as I think it would provide optimum fit and torque.

kgl

Superman · 03-26-2007, 11:02 AM

I bathed mine in Maltby's but PB Blaster probably works too. Over several days, at least.

I also placed a block of wood between the thermostat and the body, to keep everything still while I appled substantial torque with the wrench.

And finally, yes. I used heat. They all came off fine.

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 11:05 AM

Superman:

Saw your writeup > at least I think it was yours > you made a cardboard funnel fo rthe oil coming out of the line >

the block of wood to stabilize the thermostat >> Excellent data point...

Superman · 03-26-2007, 11:09 AM

Yeah, the threads on that thermostat are fine. Removal sometimes destroys the thermostat. You don't want to do that. So, patience is key. Soaking with penetrating oil. Support the part firmly (you will be putting some substantial pressure on it), and use heat. I don't think there is much air in those lines, so I didn't worry about fire problems. I didn't get it THAT hot. But, heat is your friend. Heat will enlarge the nut. That will help a LOT.

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 11:16 AM

I just ordered a HF heat gun >> pumps out hot air... 600-1000F .. plus I have the MAPP and propane torch.. thinking I'll heat cycle with the heat gun for a bit and use the torch if that fails... plus I've probablly ordered $100+ in blinking 36mm wrenches...

I busted the thermostat back in 87 > when I was a cherry 911 owner..it was a major trauma experience... seeing/feeling the thermostat aluminium housing just fracture..... gawd!!!! so I'll do whatever not to revisit that event...

Shawn 357 · 03-26-2007, 11:32 AM

I just used a regular wrench very carefully. I would guess that making your own wrench will take more time than changing the oil line : )
Keep in mind that I live in San Diego so we don't really have to deal with corrosion from salt on the roads etc.
I would recommend getting a special wrench for the job because if you do strip that fitting it will be a real pain.
Lots of PB Blaster!!!!

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 11:40 AM

Shawn:
I've ordered both 36mm oil line wrenches from Pelican > the short handled version as well as the 32mm and 36mm set

plus a box end 36mm that I'm going to make a "line wrench"out of...

Give me an excuse to fire up the MAPP and the dremel... plus I think a 36 mm line wrench with the proper angle on the head is the optimum tool in the narrow confines of the thermostat place

kgl

pookie · 03-26-2007, 11:45 AM

Might want to slide over to dorkiphus.net site for Porsche owners in the NOVA area. Good bunch of guys.

Shawn 357 · 03-26-2007, 11:47 AM

It sounds like others have had good luck with the torch so it is probably worth using. I was probably just lucky and didn't have to use the torch.
-Shawn

kimlangley7 · 03-26-2007, 11:49 AM

I subscribe to Dorki-pus also > as I'm in Herndon VA >> Dave Riley, Kurt Mc, TD.. finest kind of guys >

I get more "action" response from Pelican though ... Pelican rocks!! I mean it > the Porsche knowledge base on this site is superior...

Whereas Dorki might have 10 people viewing >> Pelican will have 377..

Not dissing Dorki mind you > just Pelican is more powerful

Superman · 03-26-2007, 11:58 AM

I used regular wrenches. And I used FLAME. The heat gun is not what I'd use.

safe · safe's Garage

To be on the safe side:
Cut the nut with a Dremel just down to the threads, your replacing the line anyway, then you spin it of with a hammer and chisel.
This way there is no chance of ripping out the threads.

KTL · 03-26-2007, 02:21 PM

Heat gun will be fruitless- the oil line and oil within it are too much of a heat sink for the gun. Flame heat is what you need.

But the cutting of the nut is a very good idea. You want to release as much grip on the threads as you can, so you don't gall them. Plus, the nut also gets rusted to the solid metal line, between the OD of the line and the ID of the nut. Sometimes you can loosen the nut and the line rotates with the nut due to corrosion. So give the line a sharp blow (not too sharp so you don't crack the thermostat housing) with a hammer to attempt to break the corrosion loose between the nut and the solid line.

Quality penetrating lube is of course a good idea as the others have mentioned.

glewis80SC · glewis80SC's Garage

I had to replace my oil line on my 80SC about 4 months ago. The nut behind front wheel i soaked to death with PB Blaster and heat. Placed a wood block behind the line to prevent heat buildup on the fender.
In my opinion the "special wrench" for it was useless, I used a large cresent wrench and a cheater bar.
Use a LOT of PB Blaster over several days before starting.
greg

munsonbw · 03-26-2007, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by safe
To be on the safe side:
Cut the nut with a Dremel just down to the threads, your replacing the line anyway, then you spin it of with a hammer and chisel.
This way there is no chance of ripping out the threads.

Ditto, 5 minutes or less and its off. IF you ever feel the need to put the old style back on, I'm sure you can name the price on here... lots of people taking them off to backdate. As a further suggestion, I also used a HF air cut off tool (I guess that's what they call it). It was about $10 and I have worn out many wheels with it. An excellent tool for the $. Faster than a Dremel too.