"Adjustable" Factory anti-sway bar Modification
 

I need some input here, I've been thinking about this for a couple of days and I can't see a single issue w/ the idea. Is there any reason why I can’t/shouldn’t drill additional holes or slot the flat portion of a factory rear sway bar, then use adjustable droplinks to make it a truly adjustable swaybar?

Seems like a really easy way to save a few hundred bucks. Don’t worry, I’m not planning on going at it w/ a hand drill. A mill seems to be the right tool for job here. Anyone ever see anyone else do this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads/surfrs3.JPG

I had a Neuspeed bar on a VW that just had 3 holes drilled in the end instead of the single hole you have there. It also had adjustable heim jointed end links.

Oh and your car is not nearly dirty enough!

I have done this and it works fine. Another customer (fellow pelican) also just did this. A pair of Tarret drop links will help out here like you mention.

You can do it on a drill press with lots of nice sharp high quality drill bits or take it to a machine shop. It is not fun to drill through...

Cheers

Should I just put a couple more holes in it or give it a three inch slot?

Thanks!

I would only put one more hole in it, There is not a whole bunch of meat there....

cheers

Today just finished wevo mount welding tomorrow I will install it with Tarret a. droplink Jeff is right not much meat just drill 1" c to c . I rec. do it in machine shop, BTW the droplink is mounted between sway bar and spring plate not trailing arm. I will post some picture tomorrow.

Cool, thanks guys!

I did that very thing many years ago works fine. Then you can spend your money on a good front bar and fine tune with that.

You sure can.

What model car is that?

Fully restored?

I like the way the plate looks, has it seen any water/moisture yet?

Here are the pictures

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Resolution.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Resolution.jpg
Ryan,one thing I am confused too the drop link comes with cam bolts which replaced factory
Eccentric bolt but the cambolt is free play between the bolts and cam not like the factory solid piece so I do not know the alignment guy know to adjust.
Remember send the sway bars to machine to drill,it is special steel, I also install ER cambermax.

Is it better to mount it to the spring plate instead of the trailing arm? I assume so but unsure why, other than maybe not adding other forces to screw up the alignment settings and for freedom of movement of the trailing arm.

Miguel, that pic is a few years old but it still looks pretty good, just a bit dirtier. '81 SC Targa w/ 3.6, hardly a mechanical thing on it that I haven't cleaned, modified, or rebuilt.

Ryan I also feel a bit uncomfortable and agree with you, but the instruction from tarett is mounted in spring plate, I also edit the post under the picture, if someone have any comment pls advice me . Thanks

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Resolution.jpg

that the different between factory bolts and tarrett cambolts.

Don't worry about mounting it through the springplate. All quality aftermarket bars (SRP TRG TARETT) mount there. When you are cornerwieghting or aligning the car just disconect your adjustable drop link. Then when you are done hook it back up and adjust for zero preload.

Cheers

thanks Jeff but I still confuse with the eccentric cambolts come with the droplink how to adjust.
cheers

Are the Tarret eccentric cams available separately?

Sherwood

Why do you want more rear bar?

Good question John. I'm not sure that I do yet. This is for a car that I'm starting to prep for the track, '81 Coupe.

I plan on using an Elephant Racing (Tarret?) through the body front adjustable sway bar, and a 21mm factory rear bar w/ adjustable drop links. I just figured that if I set it up w/ the option now it would be there if I ever wanted it.

Just drill a single hole in one side and try that.

I don't know whether the bar is heat-treated after it is bent and flattened; if it is, you might try drilling the smallest hole you can get away with lots of coolant to keep the bar from losing temper.

Honestly: it's more important to have the rear suspension move without stiction in the bushings or binding from the antiroll bar. If you really want to do this mod, I would mark the spring plate position with the car at laden ride height, then REMOVE THE TORSION BARS and use a jack to support the car, then use another jack to move the banana arms through their full range of motion with the bar connected, to see if it binds. It gets complicated quickly, but the big advantage of a bar like the Smart Racing one is that it has the correct kinematics so it doesn't bind when the supension is moving, which can act like a third torsion bar and do all kinds of weird things to the handling.