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Axle shaft removal.....

I'm helping a friend on his '74 Targa and we got some minor problem. Even without the 4 CV bolts, the axle shaft won't come off from the stub axle (wheel side). What's holding this in place (gaskets)? Any advice, tips, suggestions is highly appreciated. Thanks.

Tony

Old 04-26-2007, 06:35 PM
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Two "Spirol" roll pins. The flanges may have to be wedged apart at the gasket; I separate the flanges apart by driving in a trimmed, high impact plastic tent peg to avoid marring the flanges.
Old 04-26-2007, 06:45 PM
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That is a great idea Jim!

You can also spin the shaft and tap the flange with a plastic dead blow hammer. Light taps.
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:53 PM
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Axle shaft removal......

Quote:
Originally posted by Jim Sims
Two "Spirol" roll pins. The flanges may have to be wedged apart at the gasket; I separate the flanges apart by driving in a trimmed, high impact plastic tent peg to avoid marring the flanges.
The gasket area between the CV joint and the stub axle is well hidden or covered by the trailing arm cavity. I'll take some pictures to illustrate what I was describing. And lastly, what's "Spirol" roll pins? Do I need to remove the axle nut to get the flange separated? Thanks again.

Tony
Old 04-26-2007, 07:07 PM
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you can also use door jamb wedges - prob. more likely to break
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:53 PM
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Item 16 is a "Spirol" roll pin. No, one doesn't have to remove the stub axle nut (23) nor the stub axle (13) to remove the half-shaft/CV joint assembly (14). What are you trying to do?

Old 04-26-2007, 07:53 PM
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Tony - It sounds like you need to search up recale + CV + joint to find Randy Cale's long and highly instructive thread on how to do the whole thing, what to avoid, tips for greater efficiency, etc.

There or elsewhere Jim explained the Spirol pins - they are the 2 cylindrical things poking out that are not bolts - they help locate the axle and hub together.

Be sure to use new Schnorr washers, keep the bolts and female threads clean when you torque them & inspect the threads and the Allen "recess' on each bolt. If Ok, they can be reused as can the moon plates.

Drive it 100-200 miles and check the torque again.

Remember - no oil or grease on the threads - even the ones inside the hub.
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:04 PM
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Pelican rcecale, Randy Cale’s classic thread.
”Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints”

Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:32 PM
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Axle shaft removal......

Jim,

I'm helping friend do an engine swap. Actually, it should be called body swap. The motor/trans to be transferred from a '74 Targa to a '78SC coupe. The motor/trans are out already. He needs the axle shafts from the the '74 to his new '78 coupe.

I've removed and rebuilt CV joints several times before for my SC. But never encountered this problem. These earlier half shafts or axle shafts use only 4 bolts with 2 guide pins on the trans side. I guess they have pins on both ends. So the questions now is what technique do you use or apply to break the outer CV flange from the stub axle? The gasket section is not exposed to use a wedge to pry it apart. Would taping with a rubber mallet help?

Randywebb,

I've read Recale's thread (very long) and we got different predicament. He's having a clunking noise from the CV and needed a rebuild while all I need was to remove it from the car. There must be a method or technique to get this off easily.

Will try your suggestion. Thanks to all.

Tony
Old 04-27-2007, 06:13 AM
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find where the surfaces mate and drive the wedge in there.

BTW, by door wedges I mean the 'plastic' ones that are used in construction for door frames -- not wood & not rubber things to hold a door open

yes, you can use a shot-filled hammer (best) or plastic faced hammer to part them -- if one end is loose, pretend it's a slide hammer...

wedges are easier....
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:42 AM
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"The motor/trans to be transferred from a '74 Targa to a '78SC coupe. The motor/trans are out already. He needs the axle shafts from the the '74 to his new '78 coupe."

You may encounter compatibility issues: Item 13 on the SC likely has a six-bolt pattern (and an 8 mm bolt size). Before you attempt to salvage item 13 from the '74 check to see if the rear bearings are the same between years. Do not pound on item 13 otherwise you'll damage bearings. This may not matter on the '74 (scrapping the bearings) but you will want to draw item 13 (the stub axle) into the SC rear bearings using the nut on the threaded portion of the stub axle spindle.
Old 04-27-2007, 01:45 PM
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Compatibity Issues......

Jim,

All I want is to detach item #14 (axle shaft) from stub axle (item #13). Assuming I would be able to separate item #14 (4 bolts) from item #13, will this axle fit with the newer 6-bolt stub axle (SC)?

What other alternative do I have to be able to utilize old 915 trans with 4-bolt CV to 6-bolt stub axle? Would switching to 6-bolt axle shaft and trans drive flange the only solution in this case? Need your advise. Thanks.

Tony
Old 04-27-2007, 07:57 PM
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"All I want is to detach item #14 (axle shaft) from stub axle (item #13). Assuming I would be able to separate item #14 (4 bolts) from item #13, will this axle fit with the newer 6-bolt stub axle (SC)?"

No.

"What other alternative do I have to be able to utilize old 915 trans with 4-bolt CV to 6-bolt stub axle? Would switching to 6-bolt axle shaft and trans drive flange be the only solution in this case?"

I don't think that will work either, as the drive flange splines from the SC will not likely work in the older 915 differential. Probably you will need to extract the '74 stub axles out of the arms and install them in the SC arms basically using everything from the '74 axles. I looked up the rear wheel bearings and they appear to be the same for the '74 and '78 (PN 99905302001)

Others may have additional suggestions.
Old 04-27-2007, 08:55 PM
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One thing I found out when trying to fit a 901/911 trans into a car that had a stock 915 was that the splines on the trans. drive hubs changed, so you couldn't just swap newer ones in for my application. You could see if that will work for you.

Otherwise, you can work at the wheel hub end,

or have custom half-shafts made that will mate to your new trans. on one side while still mating to the wheel hubs on the other side.
-- might be cheaper to just buy a different trans. or rebuild your old one.

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Old 04-27-2007, 09:22 PM
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