Butt welding flares vs. lap welding - Page 2

Kemo · 05-22-2007, 02:15 PM

mattmcginn,

EXCELLENT WORK! Thank you so much for posting your technique. I do have a question. When you start tacking in the flare, do you position the flare flush with the body with no gap at all? after reviewing the "cut a little and weld" technique, it seems there would be a gap from the cutting blade. Your technique seems to offer up a flush welding surface thereby minimizing the "blow thru" problem that newbie welders like me have.

thanks again for posting.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Kemo, I was thinking the same thing. That said, if you used a body saw, the gap would be very minimal. Just enough for a sheet metal clamp to fit in perhaps.

Kemo · 05-22-2007, 02:33 PM

emptyo,

I read somewhere that the metal shrinks at the weld. with the metal flush you would think it would shrink and pull the flare either up or down depending on which side of the weld cooled faster. so is that the reason for a hammer and dolly? to get the flare back flush with the body metal?

rennch · rennch's Garage

Yes, if I understand it correctly, the hammer and dolly takes the tension off the weld. I guess ideally you have someone there with a hammer and dolly ready to rock between spot welds so it stays consistent.

rw7810 · rw7810's Garage

I think when you butt weld you should have a small gap. These ltittle tools help.

Matt - thanks for your great contribution!

mattmcginn · 05-23-2007, 06:49 AM

Bob

I've seen those tools you posted but have not used them myself. One of the guys who works for me likes them and gets good results with them so its a lot a matter of preference. I learned the trade doing tons of 365 work at Karosserie Kolbe doing all straight butted welds (there are tons of butted joints on the outer skins of the 356)

I wrote up a big reply at home last nite and never posted it-maybe it will still be there when I get back but I am at my shop now...if its there I will post tonite.

Basically my millermatic 185 set on to run 30 percent of max voltage and 50 percent of max wire speed has no problem with full penetration and working slowly, has no warpage problems that are out of whack from any other welding on sheet metal. In fact, I usually have to dress the hangers on the back side of the weld prior to doing and final hammer/dolly work.

Welder settings are hugely a matter of taste and style. Ditto for basic welding practice. I say if it works for you, do it and have fun!!

rw7810 · rw7810's Garage

I have the same Miller, but still a rookie with it. Thanks for the set-up tip. i'll try that next time.

rennch · rennch's Garage

They actually have those sheet metal clamps (the illustration above) at Harbor Freight for just a couple bucks. We're lucky enough to have a local retail store right around here.

mattmcginn · 05-23-2007, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rw7810
I have the same Miller, but still a rookie with it. Thanks for the set-up tip. i'll try that next time.

Its a great welder. I have had mine for 7 years and have had no problems. I have welded 3/8 plate/tubing for my english wheel all the way down to thin body metal.

Getting a welder dialed in to your preferences can be a bear. One of the things you may have to do is to push the wire just as you strike the arc to artificially increase the wire speed in certain areas where you may need to fill a gap.

rick-l · 05-23-2007, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by emptyo
They actually have those sheet metal clamps (the illustration above) at Harbor Freight for just a couple bucks. We're lucky enough to have a local retail store right around here.

They are only available in the stores, not in the on line catalog. I did a search for the part number on their website and came up empty.

rfuerst911sc · 05-23-2007, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by rw7810
I think when you butt weld you should have a small gap. These ltittle tools help.

Matt - thanks for your great contribution!

Those are the clamps that I use, I purchased them from Harbor Freight.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Wow, deja vu!

squidmarks · squidmarks's Garage

I'm glad to see this discussion as I plan to add turbo flares to my SC. I just finished rebuilding the engine and will now start stripping the body.

Where's the best place to buy steel flares? How much can I expect to pay?

Thanks.

Geoff

rennch · rennch's Garage

A lot of folks get them from Restoration Design, if Bill is actually there to answer the phone. I think you can expect to pay $200-$250/corner, generally, unless you can find a Pelicanite that's got a couple lying around.

village idiot · village idiot's Garage

like me

rennch · rennch's Garage

Hey Village...I'm in the market for front flares. What do you want for 'em?

village idiot · village idiot's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by emptyo
Hey Village...I'm in the market for front flares. What do you want for 'em?

I just picked these up, and I'm debating to use them right now. If I decide to get rid of them I'll let you know.

I just figured the chances of anyone having a complete set in Hawaii was so remote that I'd better buy them before someone else did...just in case

rennch · rennch's Garage

Fair enough...keep us posted!

Gillies · 10-17-2010, 05:21 PM

Subscribing... Great thread !!

T77911S · 10-18-2010, 05:30 AM

i did not read any replies.

when i did some, i screwed the new flare on as the one picture shows the guy scribing it, except i left it on, cut about 12 inches or so of the old flare, spot welded the new one, cut, spot welded and so one until the old one was cut all the way off. then remove the screws and the old one will fall off.