Rear Bumper

[kwm]

This weekend I hope to remove the rear bumper and bumperette shocks on my 83SC to replace with a cool newly painted RS rear bumper. Can anyone tell me where to start when removing my rear bumper and offer any pointers? I would really appreciate it. Thanks

[FinallyGotOne]

I did this on my 79 SC, should be about the same.

This was a PAIN in the A$$!

Them dang bumperettes were not budging. I reached up underneath and removed the buper shock nuts. I then removed all the little screws or bolts around the accordion type parts. I cut the wires to the rear plate lights. And removed the full bumper as a whole. I think I had to remove the rubber trim to get to some bolts.

There is not much room on the passenger side with the oil reservoir there, so I found it easiest to remove the passenger side tire to get inside better.

I replaced it with a Yellowbird rear bumper and had to cut vents into it to try and help it stay a bit cooler. It got really hot B4 i did that.

I also added reinforcement bars for abit of safety

[kwm]

Originally posted by FinallyGotOne
I did this on my 79 SC, should be about the same.

This was a PAIN in the A$$ ]!----GREAT! but then what job I have done so far on this car has not been?

Them dang bumperettes were not budging. I reached up underneath and removed the buper shock nuts. I then removed all the little screws or bolts around the accordion type parts. I cut the wires to the rear plate lights. And removed the full bumper as a whole. I think I had to remove the rubber trim to get to some bolts.----where did you buy new bumper trim?

There is not much room on the passenger side with the oil reservoir there, so I found it easiest to remove the passenger side tire to get inside better.

I replaced it with a Yellowbird rear bumper and had to cut vents into it to try and help it stay a bit cooler. It got really hot B4 i did that. ---I dont get it, why was it getting to hot? And, is there too hot for fiberglass?

I also added reinforcement bars for abit of safety

----Where you able to use the stock bars that drop down to support the stock bumper? How sturdy is your new bumper can you push on it?

[kwm]

Glad I bolded those questions so that they would just blend in with the rest of the quote....stupid

[jester911]

You really should purchase the Bentley manual. It gives all the info for this and most other similar projects.

I put a fiberglass bumper on the back of my car last year. Removing the old one was not that hard for me. You more than likely will have to remove the bumper shocks. I fabbed up a couple clips to hold a bumper reinforcement I made from some aluminum channel. I probably should have taken some pics but I was kind of rushing to get it all back together so I didn't think of it.

The difficulty will lie in how rusty the nuts/bolts that hold it all together.

[kwm]

I have a Bentley manual. I think, it only cost like $20 thought so maybe not the same you you are talking about. Since I obviously cant drill holes in any part of the RS bumper that is going to show what are my main mounting areas going to be?

[jester911]

Bentley new is around 90 or 100 bucks. Anyway what I did to attach my bumper was to take a piece of fairly stiff metal and attached it to the underside of the sheet metal under the Porsche reflector. The metal was about 3' x4" by roughly 3/64. Letting the metal become sort of a shelf for the bumper to sit on. You have to make sure when attach the metal to put the screws far enough back to let the fiberglass slide in as far as it needs to.

Slide the bumper into place and then you need to attach each side under the fenders. It takes some fitting and adjusting.

I would suggest also to use some thin sheet metal around the muffler inside the bumper. The heat will melt the paint if you don't protect it. Do a search on this. Someone posted pics of how to do it.

[KCPSG]

here is a thread where I think I showed or talked about how I attached my bumpers...if not just search my threads..you should find one where I talked about it. Update pics of the IROC front bumper and RUF rear install I just used some of the bolts that hold the heat shrouding under the reflector and of course the 2 on each side that holds the bumper to the quarter panel

[kwm]

KCPSG is that pretty sold mounted like that? Thanks for the link!

[KCPSG]

Well it is more than enough to keep the bumper on, however I don't really want to be sitting on the rear bumper either.

[kwm]

I sit on my stock rear bumper pad all the time. That is about all those bumper pads are good for.

[FinallyGotOne]

My fiberglas bumper is attached at the holes directly behind the wheels. With a good size bolt, nut and lock washer, then again about 6 inches with a screw and clip. then I have removed the light assemblies and using flat top bolts and aluminum supports I have two bolts holding the corners of the bumper on. That is VERY secure. Lastly the bottom of the bumpers have a piece that attaches to a aluminum tubing that fastens behind the rear wheels also. I will post a pic of the bumper here in a couuple days, car is in the paint shop getting all the trim blacked out better.

[FinallyGotOne]

Sorry KWM, let me address those other questions...

I went to a shop downtown denver that specialized in rubber and rubber type trims. But then in the end I used no trim. It mates closely enough that Trim is not needed.

As far as the heat, this is REALLY a debatable question. Think of how the corners of the fiberglas bumper create a pocket where air can get trapped. Now think of how hot the exhaust is and how closely the exhaust is to the fibergals (about 6 inches or less I think) Now imagine a black car sitting on a hot summer day in Denver traffic on I-25 and now that air has NO where to go. It permeates the fiberglas.

I have large vents now cut in and it lets the standing heat escape now. I do think different types of fiberglas react different, and i have learned a LOT about fibergals along the way. So you may or may not need to worry about vents. However the yellowbird type rear bump has several vertical slits in the bottom back side and therefore it seems they already were designing it to dissipate heat.

As far as using the stock bars, I think you are referring to the aluminum tubing? yes i was able to use them.

One thing you have to determine is how you are going to wire your rear license plate lights? I ended up going with LitNBoltz of an amber color. Just enough to illuminate the numbers. This really worked the best for me.
The reinforcement bar (nerf) was easy enough as it just slid right into the bumper shocks area.

I did not use a heat shield. or any reflective heat tape. Then vents really are sufficient to let it breathe now.

[kwm]

Thanks for bringing up the plate light issue. I plan to leave mine off altogether. The plate lights on there now don't work anyway. Many cars on the road do not have them from the manufacture so it can't be illegal to run w/o them.....? I am going to fab. some sort of heat shield for mine b/c I like the ventless look.

[randywebb]

Illegal to not illuminate the license plate in every US state & territory.

[kwm]

I know there are vehicles made w/o plate lights I used to own one.

[randywebb]

if it is made in the last 20-30 years, it probably illuminates the plate from some other source of light

But, hey, why take my word. Just ask the cop that stops you for a coke dealer/transporter... He will be very keyed up as his life is at risk on those types of suspicious vehicle stops, and will surely be very very happy to fill you in (so to speak).

[kwm]

My 64 1/2 Mustang had no plate lights

[KCPSG]

http://carpartsdiscount.com/product/523846A

[si Banker]

There are small "blister" lites that are available at motorcycle shops that cater to sport bikes. I have also heard of a company in England that is called "Lite Bolts" that are used to hold your plate on and supply a source of light at the same time.

Go to Barnes and Nobles and you will find them in any of the English bike mags