Boxter Brake Upgrade ?

[pmajka]

Hi, i am just starting my boxter brake upgrade....on my 88 911 carrera

Any advice, gotchas???

Torque setting for the bolts to brake calipers?
Do i bleed the inner side first then the outer side?

thanks...

Also, if anyone who has done this, would like to offer opinions, please...I would like to hear about it.

[V12man]

Don't forget to swap the bleed nipples and crossover tubes around on the front calipers.

I always bleed the inside nipple first.

Torque - adapter to the carrier plate - 51lb ft on the front - 43 on the rear according to Haynes - caliper to adapter - don't know - tight but not stripped.

[JMatta]

BTW, that would be Boxster, with an S, not "Boxter".

[pmajka]

Originally posted by V12man
Don't forget to swap the bleed nipples and crossover tubes around on the front calipers.

I always bleed the inside nipple first.

Torque - adapter to the carrier plate - 51lb ft on the front - 43 on the rear according to Haynes - caliper to adapter - don't know - tight but not stripped.

what do you mean by" swap the bleed nipples and crossover tubes around on the front calipers" ???

[carrera1975]

use the porterfield r4 s brake pads, or this conversion will squeak you out of your mind.

[TRE Cup]

52 ft lbs (70 Nm) front caliper adaptor to spindle

44.5 ft lbs (60 nm) rear (on aluminum trailing arms) rear adaptor to arm
52 ft lbs on steel rear arms

Drive it 100 miles, bed in pads well. Then retorque all fittings to spec and check for fluid leaks

[V12man]

"what do you mean by" swap the bleed nipples and crossover tubes around on the front calipers" ???"

On the Boxster, the caliper mounts 'behind' the front wheel - on the 911, the caliper mounts 'in front' of the wheel (when you look at the car from the side)

When you move the caliper to the front of the wheel, in order to keep the caliper pistons oriented correctly, you should swap out the bleed screws to the other side - otherwise you have the bleed screws under the caliper (impossible to bleed) or the caliper on the wrong side of the car (and the pistons clamp in the incorrect order on the rotor when it is turning (they are different sizes))

Putting the caliper on the wrong side of the car really badly affects the brakeing, and you get strange pad wear patterns.

[KTL]

V12 is right on. Boxster calipers are trailing mount (on a Boxster they mount aft of the wheel center instead of in front of the wheel center) and therefore if you do not swap locations of the bleeders and crossover tubes, the caliper pistons will not be oriented in the caliper properly- the caliper is basically upside down even though you may have the bleed nipples properly positioned on the top of the caliper.

The smaller piston must be ahead of the larger piston relative to wheel rotation. In other words, a spot on the rotor when turning in the forward direction will encounter the smaller piston first. The reason the pistons are different sizes is to address uneven pad wear- the pads wear at an angle if the pistons are oriented incorrectly. Having the pistons in the wrong location isn't highly dangerous- i've seen serious race cars have them installed improperly with the only ill effects being angular pad wear.

[barney911rs]

This is the first I recall hearing about the swap of the bleeders and cross over. It makes perfect sense. When I do my front suspension changes, I'll have to take a look at that. I almost hate to mess with it, I've been very happy with the brakes on my race car so far.

Maybe I did it and just don't remember. The mind is a terrible thing to waste.

[pmajka]

wow, thanks all, will check tommorow...

[pmajka]

THe were already flipped...They are now in stalled.

I am using Textar pads...Right front Squeals like nothing i have ever heard. its Horrible! even if i push harder on the pedal, its squeals just the same, until you are almost stopped and then its gets really loud until copletely stopped.

any advice? is this just breakin?

[carrera1975]

refer to my earlier post, the ONLY pad that will fix the howl is the porterfield 4r-s pad. The squeal will get to a point that you will drive the car off a cliff and walk.

My would squeal the worst the last 5 feet.

Do it,

[TRE Cup]

as carrera1975 said- PORTERFIELD R4S

[V12man]

I am running Pagid Orange - keeps the pedestrians off the street.... see sig - work good on the track though.

[pmajka]

ok , i believe you , but what makes the porterfield so quiet?
what black magic has been cast upon these pads?

[carrera1975]

don't know but TRE cup is da man, he turned me on to these pads. Had pagid blacks...stoped great BUT! the noise was way over the top. The 4rs make it streetable. Yes they do stop the car, and leave a fair share of dust

[white85carrera]

Great info. Never knew the orientation tidbit....I have had the Boxster fronts for a couple years and don't remember fiddling around with bleeders and crossovers.....wonder if Brembo did that as part of the kit?
My pad wear pattern is fine, regardless.

As for pads, I've run Hawks, Porterfields and a variety of Pagids and squeal has rarely been an issue.....actually prefer some feedback, but this is a track-only car. Overall a great upgrade.

[KTL]

If it's only one corner of the car that squeals, then there is a pad alignment issue or some bad material in the pad. Textar street OEM Porsche pads should not squeal too much at all. I had problems with even street pads squealing a bit when I had 993 brakes on my car. Simple solution was to file a bevel on the trailing edge of the pads, problem solved.

[JeremyD]

Textar blacks squealed - pagids squealed, orange pagids squealed, Porterfield R4s - no squeal

The plain R4's squeal a little - but nothing like the pagids.

[pmajka]

1. the brakes are the Brembo Boxster upgrade..and were flipped correctly from the box.

2. new rotors that are slotted and looks like they were crossed milled not turned, so that could be a squeak issue, cause its getting better as rotors are smoothing out. but still loud.

if textars dont shut up in a week, i am going with Porterfields R4s.

thanks for all the input.