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jwerion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Loveland, COLO
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Question DENVER Pelicans, Looking for a company to remove the undercoating on a 70

I am looking for a company or person in the Denver or Northern Colorado area who can/will scrape/blast all the undercoating from my 1970 tub.

I did this on my 78 race car and know what it takes but I just don't have the time to do it again.(or the desire)

I would rather not acid dip it but if there is no other choice I will, if there is a company in the Denver area or with in a 150 miles of Denver.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

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1978 race car scca GT2
1998 C2S sold
1996 C4S sold
1973 911 T restored with 2.7 RS running gear
1970 911 E Project
Old 06-14-2007, 06:43 PM
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1978 race car scca GT2
1998 C2S sold
1996 C4S sold
1973 911 T restored with 2.7 RS running gear
1970 911 E Project
Old 06-15-2007, 07:46 AM
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Talk to Bob at Storz garage in downtown denver, if he cant do it he'll point you in the right direction 303 333 1911.
Old 06-15-2007, 09:51 AM
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Thanks, I will give him a call.
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1978 race car scca GT2
1998 C2S sold
1996 C4S sold
1973 911 T restored with 2.7 RS running gear
1970 911 E Project
Old 06-15-2007, 10:37 AM
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Try Blasttech, they are located by 3R racing.
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:55 AM
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+1 Blast tech.
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78 SC hotrod
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:16 AM
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Josh,


Gary Nardi
Blast-Tech, Inc.
3775 S. Kalamath St.
Englewood, CO 80110
303-806-9992
303-806-9985 (fax)


They are just south of 3R (in the same block). NW corner of the intersection.


Can you find a salvage piece of sheet metal with the plastic sound deadening still in place? Try DART. I talked to Blast-Tech about this. It isn’t clear if any of their considerable processes will work without potential damage.

There are only three was of removing that kind of stuff (and it varies by Porsche models): Heat, chemicals and media blasting. Not infrequently a finished project requires all three. There is always mechanical scraping necessary. There isn’t a single vendor here who can do everything.

The coating is designed to repel mechanical abuse from stones. “Sandblasting” has to be very intense to remove the stuff. If the tech isn’t careful, it is possible to warp or even breech the sheet metal.

There used to be a company in Golden (Lakewood?) with a caustic tank big enough to dip a 911. I still have a bare metal 914 chassis they did. Worked great but their “temp labor” employees spent many hours scraping off the chemically loosened material. It doesn’t just fall off.

You might consider experimenting with “paint removers” to see what works. Once you have your system down, you could hire some labor to strip it at your place. It is very labor intensive and obnoxious. This yields the best result IMHO.

Once you get the material off, Blast-Tech is great to prep the surfaces for priming and repair. As I recall they offer soda, CO2, glass, plastic and other media. Whatever they do, the metal needs immediate cleaning (if necessary) and primer painted. There are several body/paint shops in the area for priming. Of course 3R is for the finish work.

Best,
Grady
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:15 PM
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I have a call into blast-tech to see what they can do. If all else fails I guess I will hire someone to do it in my shop.

Thank you all once again I really appreciate it.

Grady if the metal needs immediate primer do you recommend that I weld the cage in first and make any repairs before having it blasted?
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1978 race car scca GT2
1998 C2S sold
1996 C4S sold
1973 911 T restored with 2.7 RS running gear
1970 911 E Project
Old 06-15-2007, 12:54 PM
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Josh,

I just talked to Dave@DART and he is going to have one of his guys cut up some chassis pieces for experiments. These are things destined for the crusher so we won’t be wasting any good parts. I figure sorta 2’X2’ pieces are easy to transport and deal with.

He did his current race chassis with a heat gun and a scraper and with a wire wheel. He tried unsuccessfully the most aggressive sand blasting.

Can someone offer information if there are different compounds post the tar era (<-’68)?

Josh, I think the sequence should be; clean the areas where the cage needs to be welded or the cage limits access for cleaning and more. Add or remove any other brackets, mounts, etc. I think closing off the dash “firewall” between the cockpit and trunk with welded steel is important. Weld in the cage. Finish the cleaning.

All during this process an aerosol can of primer can protect bare metal when necessary.

After the chassis is totally outfitted with the cage and all the components are test fitted (most important is the seat and belt mountings), then you should do final cleaning and perhaps media blasting with immediate primer.

Sequence is very important when building a race chassis. Think first, weld later. Once the cage is installed you have limited access for other operations.

Best,
Grady

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Old 06-15-2007, 01:58 PM
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