Optima red top : dead after 3 years.

[cdrik915]

Hi mates ,

I'm a bit despited with my Optima red top . (730 A / 44Ah)

I bought it to be sure of starting , and just after 3 years , the Optima is completly dead.

No power to start .

I've tested it and the result is no Amp' !!!

I precised my car has no radio , no electric equipments used , even the defrost has been removed.

I've a cut-off switch so no leaks of courant possible.

In the doubt , i tested it : no leaks of volts.(amperemetric tool on the wire)

I can't understand that a battery like this not last for more time at the price i paid for : 200 euros , and the brace to imagine and build.......

Any imput appreciated ,


Ced'

[brads911sc]

Do you keep it on a battery maintainer/tender?

With the red top it is REQUIRED. They will last and last if you use one.. they will crap out if you dont keep them fully charged.

In any event, you should be able to get a warranty replacement at 3 years if its bad.

Just my .02. Good luck...

[Steve@Rennsport]

Optima's are excellent batteries with a few ideosyncracies.

1) They must be kept fully charged when the car is stored.

2) One needs an AGM-compatible charger such as the C-Tek ones

[Wil Ferch]

Steve:
Allow me to pursue your point further. You say you need a AGM-compatible ( gel battery) charger, and I've heard this mentioned before. BUT....I've had great service from a regular "smart" trickle charger ( like a Schumacher), as it senses a very small voltage drop on the battery ( < 1 volt) then starts a low-rate recharge....just as it would for a common lead-acid battery. I don not understand Optima's warning about using these... as they've worked well for me and for others I know of.

To the original poster, you may either have a defective battery as indicated....OR....the battery is noe "flat" and needs a particularly short-duration, but high-rate charge to bring it back alive. The Optima web site should give you guidance on numbers. You may need to get a shop to use their high-rate shop charger. After that is done, the battery *should* respond well to topping-up trickle charging as mentioned in the beginning.

[cdrik915]

Thanks for the replies mates ,

My Optima was completly charged , i verified it.

I used a gel battery charger /maintener.

There is a few voltage staying in , 11 volts , but no Amp' to start the engine.

I've a special tool that simulates a real starting and it says "no power"

The seller said me "two years warranty " , but on Optima's website , i can read 3 years .

I'm very embarrassed , i was very proud to use an Optima cell , i was sure of its quality , remembering the numerous testimonials i had read here .

What's your thoughts mates ???


What to do ???

I've tryed to charge again it , but no way.........the voltage shuts down immediatly , i can see it lowering on the voltmeter.

[mpetry]

Steve - are you sure you don't have a short somewhere in the car ? Is the battery showing discharged AFTER you install it ?

I wonder if there's a short that is rapidly discharging the battery?

[911pcars]

It's possible the battery is kaput. It happens. Not every Optima or whatever brand is going to meet specs. in its lifetime. If possible, confirm it cannot be brought back to operational state by an Optima dealer, then move on; have it replaced under manufacturer's warranty (typically, 72 mos. in the US) or buy another battery, Optima or otherwise.

Venting your frustration always helps, except for starting your engine.

Sherwood

[porschenut]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

I've had great service from a regular "smart" trickle charger ( like a Schumacher), as it senses a very small voltage drop on the battery ( < 1 volt) then starts a low-rate recharge....just as it would for a common lead-acid battery. I don not understand Optima's warning about using these... as they've worked well for me and for others I know of.

Add me to that list. I've used a Porsche Charge-o-mat on my Red Top for the last 6 years and the battery is still doing great.

[jetstar911]

I sell Optima Batteries and i personally wouldnt install one in any of my cars. They made good batteries 10+ years ago but the "Optima" name has been sold to Interstate Bateries and Johnson & Johnson since then. I sell many type of high performance batteries and the Kinetic work best. Just my 2 cents......
K

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by jetstar911

I sell Optima Batteries and i personally wouldnt install one in any of my cars. They made good batteries 10+ years ago but the "Optima" name has been sold to Interstate Bateries and Johnson & Johnson since then. I sell many type of high performance batteries and the Kinetic work best. Just my 2 cents......
K

Realizing your relationship and possible bias, please provide us with a link or some info on the suggested battery.

Thanks,
Sherwood

[Wil Ferch]

11 volts is "dead"

12.6-12.7 standby volts = 100% charge
12.4 V = 75% charge
12.2 V= 50% charge
12.0 V= 25% charge
< 12.0 V = "Dead"

[Wil Ferch]

I've heard the Optima story this way....original were good.....company was sold and quality problems cropped up ( this story came up a few years ago), but the *latest* are back to being good.

Being in the sales/rep business myself...I need to ask.....if you sell them but don't have your "heart" into what you are selling....why sell them??? I would never hawk a product or service I don't believe-in. Could be the reason I'm going broke, too !.....

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

11 volts is "dead"

12.6-12.7 standby volts = 100% charge
12.4 V = 75% charge
12.2 V= 50% charge
12.0 V= 25% charge
< 12.0 V = "Dead"

Wil,
The above may not apply to an Optima battery or any battery not at full charge.

Sherwood

[jetstar911]

http://kinetikaudio.com
I sell them because the company i work for carries them. In general they help out with other battery lines we carry for something to compare to. Most of the batteries we sell are for highend car audio and video systems for manafactures demo cars that you at SEMA and larg product shows.

[Wil Ferch]

Any 12V car battery, of any construction ( AFAIK) that measures < 12 V across the poles at idle standby...... is "dead"...........

What do you mean "not at full charge".....that's what we're talking about. It *won't* be at full charge if the Voltage numbers are low.

?????

What am I missing? The only thing I know that may be different is that the fully-charged Optima lists a decimal fraction different number when fully charged ( 12.8 v? )...but under 12 is no-go.

[Wil Ferch]

Jetstar911...
Well that explains it....it sounded you were an independent who ran his own business and who chose what lines you carry. Sorry for the misunderstanding. What non-venting batteries do you like?....if you can say?

[Wil Ferch]

BTW....maybe you meant Johnson Controls....not Johnson and Johnson.....

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

Any 12V car battery, of any construction ( AFAIK) that measures < 12 V across the poles at idle standby...... is "dead"...........

What do you mean "not at full charge".....that's what we're talking about. It *won't* be at full charge if the Voltage numbers are low.

?????

What am I missing? The only thing I know that may be different is that the fully-charged Optima lists a decimal fraction different number when fully charged ( 12.8 v? )...but under 12 is no-go.

For example, early Optimas, as you noted, require a substantial high current charge to begin accepting any charge. When first measured, the voltage would indicate a dead battery. Not so in this case.

The condition for assessment would be after a 24 hr. trickle charge before confirming it good or not.

Sherwood

[stlrj]

Originally Posted by Wil Ferch

BTW....maybe you meant Johnson Controls....not Johnson and Johnson.....

That's what I was thinking too.

[RWebb]

"shock it" with a high amp charger - use a 2nd battery initially (in parallel) to overcome the built in "computer" in your modern charger

then check the voltages when it's done

let it sit a day or 2 then check again