so i should unbolt the other end of the a-arms at the cross bar and leave the ball joint intact?

i looked this over yesterday and i think it would be okay as the 'cross bar' doesn't appear to have any adjustment in it so re-bolting into the same exact fit would be easy as pie.


btw, did you guys slosh any POR15 into the rearward portions of the longitudinals?

I haven't done that yet, but it is in my plan. I can look up into the insides of the longitudinals and there is some surface rust, so I thought POR-15 would be good preventative - better than ignoring it. I think that it should be kept a couple of cm away from where any welding will be done. I am not sure about the part of the pan that will be under the tank support. I am now thinking that I should leave the weld-through primer there (I plan to remove the weld-through everywhere else when I prep the surface of the pan for POR-15). Again, I figure its better than nothing. Might be better to get some opinions of people who know what they are talking about on this issue. There are alot of different opinions out there.

Yes, I left the ball joints attached. It still gives you a few extra inches of wiggle room.

rob, i can't find the darned fabrication site i had looked at but the guy talked about using a pipe with a slot cut in one end to gradually bend a flange onto shaped parts. it LOOKED easy.

http://www.austin7.org/sheet_metal_flange.htm



found it!