New ball joints for Helga...

[azasadny]

I took my car (Helga) to the alignment shop this AM to get adjusted since Tab and I just replaced the front struts a little over a week ago. The alignment guy is very familiar with Porsches and other foreign cars, which is rare in my neck of the woods. He just called to let me know that my ball joints have alot of play in them and are "loose". I have already ordered the parts and tools required to replace the ball joints. how hard is this job? Should I take the parts to Tab Tanner and pay him to do the work or can I reasonable do the job in my garage on floor jacks (no lift available yet)? Thanks!

[Moke81]

I did them on my SC, the hardest part was getting that large nut off.
I ended up chiseling them off and then replacing them with new ones.
Don't use that special socket for taking them off you will end up having to buy another one, its for putting them on. I think the torque is 150 lbs.
___________
1981 SC

[JK-81SC]

Art,

I did mine a few months ago. It's not too bad, once the nut on the bottom is removed. I used the tool sold by Pelican to remove and install the nut. I read that the tool is only for installing the nut, not removing. Oops, my bad.

I had to put a jack under my torque wrench to keep it in place on the nut. The jack provided enough upward force to keep it firmly in place against the nut. You have to torque the nut to 184 ft-lbs, so it wants to jump off the nut without the upward force.

I was lucky and the threaded pins were not rusted. Some people have had trouble removing the pins.

It is some serious grunt work though, so see what the shop wants to do the work.

[Moke81]

I also used the jack method for torquing purposes.
If you use some PB Blaster on those pins or some other kind of spray lubricant they will slide out, you should replace those too.
The 101 Project Book was very helpful.
Doing the ball joints was my first big project, it was not that bad.

[azasadny]

Guys,
Thanks for the useful advice! I'll check with the shop that did the alignment to see if they will do it, if not, I'll check with Tab Tanner or do it myself after the "Porsches to Oxford" event the last weekend of July. Thanks again!

[azasadny]

Guys,
Thanks for the useful advice! I'll check with the shop that did the alignment to see if they will do it, if not, I'll check with Tab Tanner or do it myself after the "Porsches to Oxford" event the last weekend of July. Thanks again!

[Thrasher]

I did this one last Winter when replacing my control arm and had the most difficulty getting the ball joint's "male" part to come out of the strut's "female" receptacle. I think it had rusted up enough in there that it was stuck. PB Blaster and a BFH eventually prevailed, but then I also had a lot of difficulty in getting the new BJ to go in.

I found that one of the sanding drums on my dremel tool was the precise opening and once I ran it in a few times (only removing scale) it went right in.

I would also second not even trying to remove the old nuts with the tool. Maybe a really good impact wrench after a few days soaking in PB, but you do run the risk of trashing that tool. I chose to cut mine off since I had borrowed the tool and didn't want to trash it.

[azasadny]

Thanks! I'm a big fan of PB Blaster and Gibbs lubricant and I have a BFH if I need it. when we replaced the front struts, rotors and pads/lines a week ago, I looked at the front suspension and it didn't look rusty, but I know from my engine replacement last summer just how stubborn these parts are.

[JK-81SC]

I agree with both of the comments about not using the tool to remove the nuts. I found out after I had completed the work. Luckily I was able to finish the work, but the tool looks a bit worn out.

[Thrasher]

Originally posted by azasadny
I looked at the front suspension and it didn't look rusty, but I know from my engine replacement last summer just how stubborn these parts are.

Neither did mine

The other bugger that lots of guys have had issues with is the pin; mine came out with a little bit of work and was unscathed, so I chose to re-use it.

Lots of good knowledge in the archives, too.

[azasadny]

The guy who did the alignment on my car told me it wasn't off by very much. He said that since I've ordered the parts for the ball joint replacement, he would do it for me for $200. I don't think that is too bad for a potentially PITA project. I don't have a 2-post lift yet, so I would be crawling around on the concrete garage floor, so paying him to do the work sounds pretty good to me...

[mthomas58]

Originally posted by azasadny
..........." I don't have a 2-post lift yet".......

Hey Art, what are you looking at? Sure would be nice to have a lift.....I've been thinking of the bend pak or harbor freight scissor lift myself.

[azasadny]

Mark,
I'm still looking as my new garage won't be built until next spring, but it will probably be a BendPak (or similar) 2-post lift...

[Thrasher]

$200 for both sounds very fair, especially considering it requires a $50 specialty tool. IF that includes an alignment follow-up then it's a killer deal!

Given the potential PITA on this one, I may be inclined to pay for it (and I have yet to spend a single dollar for someone else to do work on my 911!)

[azasadny]

I bought the tool and parts, but the $200 includes the realignment (if required) after the ball joints have been replaced. The owner of the shop knows Porsches and seems to be very competent. They will do the work the same day I get the car to the shop because they know I'm driving the car as much as possible since this is prime "driving season" here in SE MI.

[Thrasher]

That seems like a no-brainer, then. It's all too easy to break off a bolt or cross-thread something and get yourself into a bigger jam.

For that sum, I'd job it out since it's easily a 3 or 4 hour per side job. That brings the cost down to about $25/hr for your time - probably worth it!

[JeremyD]

yeah $200 is a no brainer -

[azasadny]

Yep, thanks guys!

[Moke81]

Since you will have to have it realigned, have it corner balanced too.
______________
1981 SC Coupe