Ever seen a custom alternator plug?

[B Goode]

I'll be assembling my 2.4L soon ('73 T), and I'm thinking about a modification that I have wanted to do for years.

Has anyone seen a plug just behind the alternator attached to the fan shroud? The reason that I would like to do this is that it always seemed to be a real pain getting the alternator out of it's housing when you have little space below the shroud to get all of the bolts and wires disconnected.

I was thinking that I put a heavy duty plug mounted right on the fan shroud, I could just pull the alternator out with a short section of wiring still attached.

I know that alternators typically pump some high amps, so I need a burly plug. Hopefully some of the more electrically minded folks on the board could chime in here and let me know whether this could work, or might it not be worth the fire risk.

(I've searched, but not found any posts relating to this.)

Thanks for any advice - in advance.

[911pcars]

Nice project idea.

The environment under the air shroud isn't very nice. I would propose having the harness connector on the ambient air side for longevity, easier service and diagnostic access. You'd have a wider assortment of connector types to choose from. This probably requires a larger access hole in the air shroud so it can pass through and leave when removing the alternator.

PS: Oh, there's already the external factory harness connector. Maybe something smaller to fit through the shroud access hole.

MHO,
Sherwood

[304065]

The wire actually acts like a heat sink in addition to carrying the current.

That said, other cars of the period, (the BMW 2002 comes to mind) have a plug for the alternator.

What you REALLY don't want is for it to come loose in any way. Not only would you lose the charging circuit, if the B+ contacts the top of the engine case in the slightest, you could have a nice magnesium incendiary fire-starter on your hands.

Last time I did my alternator it took about five minutes to fasten the five M6 nuts that hold the fiberglass air deflector to the back of the fan shroud. It took about three minutes to fasten the four wires to the back of the alternator with the appropriate wrench. I suppose using your approach the air shroud could be assembled on the bench which might make it easier to install the whole thing, but I wonder whether the fan housing can properly mate to the "saddle" on the engine case with the air deflector bolted up. If you can, that might make the difference.

If you do decide to go with a connector I would do as Sherwood says, put it on the outside of the shroud and use standard lug connectors on the alternator. You could even have an entirely separate voltage regulator and +12v power source for diagnostic purposes, which could be hooked up independent of the car. Again, query why you would ever need that capability, because the time invested in assembling a test system could be more productively put to use actually FIXING the one in the car, but hey, I'm an electrical geek, why not?

Good luck!

[Early_S_Man]

A relay socket for an extra heavy duty DIN [icecube] relay should do the trick ... four poles -- two 0.25" and two 0.375" Fastons. The two heavy wires, B+ and ground, for the 0.375" Fastons, and the DF and D+/61 get the 0.25" Fastons.

Here are a couple of datasheets for Aromat/Panasonic CB relays ... page 4 of the smaller document, & page 10 of the larger document has the drawings of the HD 70/50 Amp-rated relay:

http://pewa.panasonic.com/pcsd/product/auto/pdf/mech_eng_cb.pdf

http://pewa.panasonic.com/pcsd/product/auto/pdf_cat/cb.pdf

[DUK]

Here's the Deutsch connector I used. The black is for the main and the grey houses the two smaller wires.

[B Goode]

Thanks for the good info, gents!

John, I see your point about not sparking the case - important safety tip. I'll check the fan shroud clearance when I'm assembling the engine, and if the alternator assembly can slide in as a whole, then I think I'll give this a shot.

I'll be sure to post it if it works.