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| Registered Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PNW 
					Posts: 664
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				Tach dies when hot.  Why?
			 
			My tachometer will not run when the guage itself gets hot.  This happens when sitting in direct sunlight for a period of time.  When I start the car - nothing, it lies at 0.  When I get driving and I run cool air through the blower it comes back to life. As a control, I parked the car so that the dash was not directly exposed to sunlight. After a couple of hours it worked fine. Also this is not a problem on cloudy days or in the winter. What would cause that? Is there a DIY repair? If it's an easy fix, I'll do it to avoid sending the guage off for $$ repairs. Thanks. 
				__________________ Nate | ||
|  09-11-2007, 06:01 PM | 
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| Registered | 
			I posted a thread on this a few months back and had a few others said they have the same problem.  Unfortunately, there weren't any real solutions offered to me.  Hope you have better luck.  If your tach is like mine, it will start working a couple miles down the road once the needle unsticks after sitting in the sun.
		 
				__________________ Mattlock18 1983 Porsche 911SC (Katarina) | ||
|  09-11-2007, 06:23 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PNW 
					Posts: 664
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			Exactly right.  Sorry, didn't find your thread when I did a search.  Maybe the answer will come this time around.
		 
				__________________ Nate | ||
|  09-11-2007, 06:29 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: MYR S.C. 
					Posts: 17,321
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			could be a "cold" solder joint inside the tach. temp change can make the joint expand and contract resulting in the solder point making and breaking contact. if you want, you may be able to take it apart, use a good light and viually check all the solder joints. you are looking for a very fine line around one of the connections. if you cant find it, try taking a solder iron and just heat up all the joints and hope you fix it. i have never taken one apart, so i dont know what to expect inside, i imagine there is a chip in there, that is where i would start. also check around any wire connections, resolder them just to make sure. i had "cold" solder joints in my TV and in my stereo, they are quite common. 
				__________________ 86 930 94kmiles [_  _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_  _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 01 suburban 330K:: [_  _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: RACE CAR:: sold | ||
|  09-12-2007, 04:59 AM | 
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| Slumlord Join Date: May 2001 Location: Canada 
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			Mine was a cold solder joint. I don't know which joint, I just touched all the joints with the soldering iron and it has worked fine since then.
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|  09-12-2007, 05:05 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Northern VA 
					Posts: 585
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			My olny experience with a "wild" tach was when my alternator / voltage regulator was "over -volting"... the tach would swing wildly.... //80 SC
		 
				__________________ Kim Langley 2012 Carrera / 991.1 80 911SC 97 C230 73 BMW 2002Tii | ||
|  09-14-2007, 04:32 PM | 
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| Designer King Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Toronto, ON Canada 
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			I don't know the answer, but I think I would look into things that may expand and bind in the heat/sunlight, like the needle itself, or the case, the glass, etc.  Have you removed the unit and looked it over carefully?  Maybe under different heat conditions?
		 
				__________________ Paul Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9 Never leave well enough alone | ||
|  09-14-2007, 04:51 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PNW 
					Posts: 664
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			Thanks for the good leads.  I'm going to try the cold solder fix and then check any expanding components.  I haven't had it apart yet but I think I have a good idea of where to start now.
		 
				__________________ Nate | ||
|  09-14-2007, 05:24 PM | 
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| Moderator Join Date: Dec 2001 
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			Nate, I would save yourself the aggravation of prying off the bezel ring, which despite the best efforts of anyone outside of two specialty shops in California, tends to look like a pit bull chewed it off.  Once inside, you'll be looking at an old brown circuit board filled with components so old even Early_S_Man can't find a cross-reference for modern equivalents. Then you'll be faced with looking for a bad solder connection or failed component.  But what then? Since the tach works intermittently you might be able to press the iron onto one spot and get it to work again, but it's far more likely that one of the discrete components has failed.  If it were me, I would look out ahead and determine what ignition system to use, whether Bosch CDI, MSD, Perma-Tune, M&W, etc., and have North Hollywood or Palo Alto fit a new board to accomodate signals from that kind of box. It's not super expensive and you can have the face re-screened if necessary. If you need an old '74 tach I can dig one up, I have one from the race car I am no longer using, yours for a handshake if you want it. Here's a bad picture of it but you can see the black bezel and the black center with red trapezoidal needle, should match what you have. It will take me a few weeks to dig it up, though.   
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|  09-14-2007, 06:07 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: May 2001 Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY 
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			cramer's probably correct.. a few years ago a pelicanhead posted that his lens would expand into the needle when hot. 
				__________________ Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 | ||
|  09-14-2007, 06:31 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Docking Bay 94 
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			This would happen to me too. As the guage heats up, the needle presses up against the glass and it sticks. I sent it to North Hollywood Speedometer and they installed a thin spacer ring behind the glass (it's not an uncommon problem as you have found).  I'm in Arizona and it's been fine ever since.
		 
				__________________ Kurt | ||
|  09-14-2007, 07:02 PM | 
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| Crotchety Old Bastard | 
			2nd on the needle hitting the glass (in my case). I figured it out by tapping the glass when it froze. The needle moved then stuck every time I tapped it. I could also hear a "pop" which sounded appropriate for plastic expansion every now and then when the car sat in the heat and then began to cool as I drove. 
				__________________ RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds '78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8 | ||
|  09-14-2007, 07:37 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PNW 
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When isn't he?  Sounds like sage advice.  It'll save me a few hours of aggravating work.  John thanks for the kind offer but there's no need to send your tach out here, I'll go ahead and use mine. 
				__________________ Nate | ||
|  09-14-2007, 08:10 PM | 
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