Easiest, Most Secure Way To Jack Up a 911

[xmach]

I have seen a lot of philosophies as to how to jack up my new/old '85 911... more so, in fact, than any other vehicle I've owned. It is such a pleasure to work with/on this vehicle that I don't want to make an error. It's also perplexing because the 911 is so low to the ground that it's a little more challenging to view what one might be (accidentally) jacking up.

I would like to change the transmission fluid and I know that I've gotta get the wheel off to do it from Wayne's book. I would also like to change the oil.

With the parameters of this: I am a blank slate when it comes to tools (e.g., I can buy anything; I haven't bought anything yet), I ask ye wise Pelicans out there who are experts. What is the easiest way to do this? What do I need to buy and where do I put them?

Thanks!

[scottbooth]

The *easiest* is to buy a scissors lift. But I assume that you are probably thinking jack and jack stands.

There are many variations on this theme but this is basic and will work.

(1) Jack pad adapter - this goes in the jack point socket on either side of the car, on the rear end of the rocker panel. Then you use a floor jack to lift up on the pad part of the adapter.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=911M&section=TOLtol&page=1&bookmark=4&part_number=55-6641-030-M230

(2) Floor jack - anything from Sears or a local auto parts store will work. More expensive, higher quality, lighter options exist elsewhere. But the cheap heavy jacks will lift your 911 with no problem. (Mine came from AutoZone.)

(3) Jack stands. You need 4. There are 2 common sizes, I have 2 small (for the front) and 2 large (for the rear). You don't really need the larger size in the rear unless you are trying to do an engine drop, in which case the extra height helps. As with the jack, cheap & heavy steel ones will usually be OK. Beware of ones that are both cheap and lightweight (aluminum) as some of those are poorly made.

Here is my process:

(1) Transmission in gear, parking brake on, car on level surface.

(2) Remove jack socket cover, insert adapter, and raise one side of car.

(3) Put rear jack stand on torsion bar cover - the stub that sticks out just forward of the rear wheel, inside the wheel well.

(4) Put front jack stand under the cover that is at the front end of the A-arm (which attaches front wheel to the chassis). Or, on the A-arm tube itself - though I like to use the cover so as not to scratch the A-arm itself.

(5) Lower jack, move to other side of car, repeat steps 2-4 over there.

Another option is to jack the car from its center line. In the rear this means jacking on the engine case or the transmission, which seems to work OK but some are nervous about it. In the front there is not a really good spot for that because there is a protective cover that blocks access to the front crossmember, which would be a good jacking point otherwise. The chassis itself can dent if you don't pick the right spot for the jack. And that is no fun.

Some have warned that when jacking the car one side at a time you should split it into phases so as not to get things too tilted over. I admit the car looks a bit alarming all tipped to one side but I have never had any issues.

But, safety first.

Good luck
Scott

[fred cook]

I prefer to use a floor jack and a lift plate. The lift plate fits into the jack port on the side of the car and provides a flat surface for the floor jack to lift against. Also, you don't have to worry about denting or scratching anything. Once up, I use a floor jack under the rear suspension torsion bar cap. If you are raising the car a lot, do the lift in 2 o3 steps moving from side to side. The higher you put the car, the heavier duty the jack stands should be. I use a 3 ton jack stand for "normal" lifts and a set of 6 ton big guys for the high lifts. If you are going to buy a floor jack, get one with a large lift plate. Also, be sure to chock the front wheels. Wayne has the lift plate here at Pelican Parts for a reasonable price.

[RWebb]

I've never removed a wheel to change the trans. oil. Maybe on the later cars...

It should be level when you put new oil in, so you need to lift th whole car. No pref. over side to side vs. front to back - both about the same time. Be sure the side lift gizmo does not slip (watch the angel on it, as the car goes higher, less area grabs the jack pad).

you could prob. drain the oil w/ the car tilted - might get more out that way

[old man neri]

My addition:

Once you have it jacked, give it a good push and pull, see if it is really secure. Better to find out then rather then when you are underneath it.

[tcar]

I use the jack pads upside down. Jack on the square tube. It seems less likely to slip off when the car is at an angle. The top of the pad on my jack has notches every 90 degrees and the square tube nests in the notch exactly.

[burgermeister]

For the front I bought an extra jack. That way I can jack up both sides at the same time, avoiding the horrible tilting that otherwise ensues and scares me somewhat. I made an oak 2x3, with 1" pine, 8" long, on both ends on top of said beam (2" vertical, 3" horizontal). I also cut out a 3" x 3" area on the bottom 1" deep on either end, extending to the end of the beam. The entire thing is 6 or 8" wider than the jack pads under the front corners. My jacks fit in the 3x3 recesses, and the pine boards up top sit against the jack pads on the car, allowing the rest of the beam to clear the miscellaneous stuff under the car. I jack up evenly on both sides, and put some jack stands under the wood beam when I'm done. (I really ought to just take a picture...). A bit unorthodox, but it works.

In the rear I use the engine & torsion bar covers.

[burgermeister]

Thar she be...

[RWebb]

I have to ask -- why the rabbets?

[rusnak]

I'm with Burgmeister. I bought a second floor jack, and lift the front corners in unison. I believe this is the safest way with floor jacks. If I want to lift the entire car, then I jack up the rear first and rest the car on jackstands at the rear torsion tubes. I rest the car on jackstands placed at the union of the front bulkhead and the floorpan, just in front of the sheetmetal seam, usually on top of a pad made of folded shop towels. I usually leave one of the floorjacks under the car for extra safety, or scoot the tires under the car.

[burgermeister]

Originally Posted by RWebb

I have to ask -- why the rabbets?

So the jack comfortably fits under the wood. The 2" beam and 1" pine spacer eat up 3" of ground clearance - with the rabbet, it's only 2". That part of the beam is mostly loaded in shear, and 1x3 oak is strong enough for the loads (no calculations done, just empirical observations )

BTW, the cheesy faux-red brakes are a PO's doing....not mine.

[dentist90]

As far as tools, do yourself a favour and buy a 17mm allen wrench to get the drain & fill plugs out of the tranny. It will get those stubborn plugs out no sweat, and an Allen key that big just looks cool! Should only set you back $8-10.

Another tip...loosen the the fill plug first, just in case you do have difficulty getting it loose. It would be a real bummer to drain the fluid out and then not be able to refill it the same day. But I'm sure you'll have no trouble. Good luck!

[old man neri]

Originally Posted by dentist90

As far as tools, do yourself a favour and buy a 17mm allen wrench to get the drain & fill plugs out of the tranny. It will get those stubborn plugs out no sweat, and an Allen key that big just looks cool! Should only set you back $8-10.

Another tip...loosen the the fill plug first, just in case you do have difficulty getting it loose. It would be a real bummer to drain the fluid out and then not be able to refill it the same day. But I'm sure you'll have no trouble. Good luck!

I did the exact same thing. The allen key I had to buy for an older VW. It does look super cool.

The fill plug first is a good idea. Hell, get some PB blaster on it first. I found I needed a small pipe fitted over the allen key to get it lose. Filling it is going to be fun. I shoved a extra piece of hose into the fill hole, ran it up through the wheel well, fitted a funnel at the end, and then gravity fed the oil through. It took a bit of time but it was cheap.

Good luck!

[mossguy]

I use two sets of ramps as well as a pair of jackstands. I'm a belt and suspenders guy. http://mossguysgarage.blogspot.com/2007/05/back-to-spot.html
Check out the link for pics.

Tom

[mossguy]

here's a link to the way I use the wheel chocks. I had the car roll back at me once. Once was enough!
http://mossguysgarage.blogspot.com/2007/04/latest-on-ramp-hole-in-wall-project.html

Tom

[cak]

Once you get the fill/drain plugs out, wrap them in teflon plumbing tape before putting them back in. Then they won't stick!

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by cak

Once you get the fill/drain plugs out, wrap them in teflon plumbing tape before putting them back in. Then they won't stick!

TERRIBLE IDEA. Not more than a week ago, Jim Sims posted on the danger of this -- it allows small bits of plastic to get into and clog the tiny oil passaes in the motor. Bang! You are now out $10,000 or more.

Anyone who has ever put teflon tape anywhere it can get to a oil galley should remove it and change the oil.

[cak]

Yes, if you overdo it, you can end up with tape hanging off. If you leave the first thread bare, none of the tape will be exposed to oil at all.

But ... whatever works for you.

[barney911rs]

These are a pipe thread, a very light coat of anti-seize would be better then the tape.

[burgermeister]

Teflon tape is for in-home plumbing. I'd use anti-seize as well, or maybe teflon past would be ok. NO TAPE! The bits get everywhere... (I learned on a carburetor wayyy back...)