Floorboard Preservation - POR-15 versus KBS coatings

Porsche-O-Phile · Porsche-O-Phile's Garage

Anyone have any testimonials on one versus the other? My floorboards are in generally good shape, but I want to keep them that way and clean up the 33+ years of weathering, wear and abuse they've taken. I've used stuff like Herculiner in the past and was less-than-impressed with how it held - mostly it likes to peel off. Are these other two "super products" that I've heard about much better?

mdurbahn · 09-26-2007, 09:06 PM

I have used por-15 on old cars and jeeps. Works great.

Porsche-O-Phile · Porsche-O-Phile's Garage

OK search on here seems to indicate POR is the way to go also. How does the stuff hold up over time?

mdurbahn · 09-26-2007, 09:13 PM

I sprayed it on a custom swing away tire carrier/ bumper on my jeep. Held up great to mud/salt/snow/tow straps/etc. I don't think it has a very long pot life though, so gotta use it right away once you crack the lid. I first used it about 12-13 years ago and it is still holding up.

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

I was reading on a restoration board that did a shootout between Por-15 and Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator and the consensus was that Eastwoods overall was slightly better.

I think either is adequate and superior to the factory coating for creating a moisture barrier.

What ever you use just make sure the surface is rough and dry if you want a good bond.

Zeke · 09-27-2007, 10:40 AM

Polyurethane based coatings are, in general, pretty tough stuff. Notice that POR 15 and Gorilla Glue are both activated by moisture. Thus, when just the humidity in the air gets into a partially full can, the stuff will go off sooner rather than later. (If you can keep reducing the size of your containers as you use up your material, it will last longer. So will it if you keep it in the fridge.) However, GG is formulated to foam, so the similarity stops there.

The surface has to be clean; it can be hazed with rust, but no flakes. Has to be solid. The principle is that the polyurethane blocks out all moisture so the rust can't continue. And, the polyurethane uses any ambient moisture on the metal to catalyze itself.

I have used POR 15 and fiberglass cloth together to bridge questionable areas. Neat stuff, huh?

Shaun @ Tru6 · 09-27-2007, 10:47 AM

I use POR15 with excellent results, but I keep the Metal Ready wet for a solid 30 minutes+ versus 10-15 minutes recommended for clean metal. wash thoroughly, then spray thinned with a little Xylene.

Dry the next day, you can hit it with a hammer and it won't chip or crack.

DW SD · 09-27-2007, 11:20 AM

If you spray, make sure you wear the proper mask. Since it goes off with moisture, I can only wonder how it would make a home in your lungs. Serious caution, if spraying.
Shaun, how do you protect yourself?

Doug

ianc · 09-27-2007, 11:22 AM

Never having used POR15 before or seen the instructions for it, is it suitable for applying over clean metal?

I will be grinding off old ripped sway bar brackets , and when the new ones are welded in, would POR15 be a suitable material to use to coat them and the surrounding ground-back area to preserve the metal?

Thanks,

ianc

Shaun @ Tru6 · 09-27-2007, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DW SD

If you spray, make sure you wear the proper mask. Since it goes off with moisture, I can only wonder how it would make a home in your lungs. Serious caution, if spraying.
Shaun, how do you protect yourself?

Doug

Excellent post Doug. DEFINITELY wear a proper respirator. I did my A-arms stupidly with just a dust mask. Was hard to breathe the next day. Very hard to breathe. Fine in 2 days, but go get a real dual canister approved for paint respirator if you don't have one. Did my rear trailing arms with no problems, even getting up close and personal with all the nooks and crannies.

Hard-Deck · 09-27-2007, 11:28 AM

Yes, POR-15 can be used on new metal according to their instructions as long as it's "roughed" up.

They have an informative website: www.por15.com

Shaun @ Tru6 · 09-27-2007, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianc

Never having used POR15 before or seen the instructions for it, is it suitable for applying over clean metal?

I will be grinding off old ripped sway bar brackets , and when the new ones are welded in, would POR15 be a suitable material to use to coat them and the surrounding ground-back area to preserve the metal?

Thanks,

ianc

See my first post above. I like to leave the Metal Ready on longer than recommended by the MFG.

ianc · 09-27-2007, 11:33 AM

Excellent, thanks for the quick info!

Next question (sorry to hijack this), but where is the best place to obtain? Does our host sell, or is buying direct best?

ianc

RickM · RickM's Garage

The POR-15 company is about 4 miles from my house and they have an attached retail store. That said, since the manufacturer charges list price I found it 25% cheaper at a local lawn mower / power tool shop.

If you call the company they may be able to provide you with a list of local retailers. Be sure to call a few as the price will vary. 800 726-0459.

Zeke · 09-27-2007, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianc

Excellent, thanks for the quick info!

Next question (sorry to hijack this), but where is the best place to obtain? Does our host sell, or is buying direct best?

ianc

Google and you will find lots of dealers. I get mine from a Pontiac restoration place not too far from here. OK prices.

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

Metal Ready is basically acid to etch metal and zinc phosphate to protect it. You can also use PPG DX 520 Metal Conditioner which is basically the same thing only it comes in quart size bottles which is great if you have a lot of metal to prep.

TargaFlorio · 09-27-2007, 08:12 PM

I used POR15.

Incredible results. The floorboards come out looking brand new, not only that they also feel stiffer now.

Cheers,
n.
_
http://nicolashunziker.com

don werner · 09-28-2007, 10:22 AM

Anybody ever use Rust Bullet for a project like that ?
I used it on the bottom of my 914 project 2 years ago, and it looks better today than the day I did it. Very hard, very smooth finish.

Just do NOT let it dry on your skin. Nothing but 80 grit sandpaper will get it off.

Zeke · 09-28-2007, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by don werner

Anybody ever use Rust Bullet for a project like that ?
I used it on the bottom of my 914 project 2 years ago, and it looks better today than the day I did it. Very hard, very smooth finish.

Just do NOT let it dry on your skin. Nothing but 80 grit sandpaper will get it off.

Sounds like the same formula.

cnavarro · 09-28-2007, 01:14 PM

I used POR-15 when I restored by squareback about 8 years ago, and also used it with fiberglass mat in a few questionable areas. Anywhere there was any rust, I wire brused it and used their metal prep (acid etch) to take care of the rest, then POR'ed over it. The floors and fenderwells look awesome still! I should have done a few other spots too that now seem to need some attention!