Bought me a sandblaster - yea!

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Whoo-hoo!

Shows up next week sometime. Can't wait. No more oxidized/rusty parts or panels - goin' bare naked metal all the way. . .

If I get decent with it, maybe I'll start offering media blasting services to people on here for cheap.

[bell]

hope you have a big compressor
what kind of setup did you get?

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Yea, compressor is next on the list - probably going to Sears this weekend. One o' these:

http://www.badboyblasters.com/id70.html

Pretty good price. I thought about a cabinet, but the stuff I want to do requires a portable unit versus a cabinet (large panels, etc.)

There's a local place that has about a bazillion kinds of media so I'll go in there next week and talk with them about the "proper" kind for various types of work. I fiture glass beads of 200-ish grit should work pretty well for most P-car parts though.

First goal for my own car is to get everything on it working exactly as it should, then disassemble it completely - right down to bare metal. God knows what's on the body after 34 years. Basically if it didn't come from the factory, I don't want it on there. Engine compartment & floorboards keep a healthy coating of POR-15 and the chassis/tub goes in for paint other than that. Then the real fun begins.

[Zeke]

Holy Walnut Shells, that thing is a beast! You better make sure your compressor has a trailer hitch.

So, where's this local place??

[Shoepop]

Milt isn't kidding about the size of compressor your going to need. I went to the website and could not find specs for CFM air requirement. It's going a big boy, I suggest if you don't know call and find out before you purchase one. Just a guess but 18CFM, 80 gallon tank unit minumum. It's kinda like buying a horse, that's the cheap part, it's the feeding it that kills ya.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Heh heh heh. Here's the place I was thinking of (Vista Industrial Equipment over in Signal Hill):

http://www.vistaindustrial-llc.com/

I looked at another model by Campbell Hausfeld that was similar and that one recommends 6.0 CFM and 60-125 psi working range, although that seems a bit low. I'll probably call 'em next week to see what they recommend but if it means I have to get a big'un, I'm okay with that. I'm looking at this 911 project from the "Norman Swartzkopf" point of view, "there's no such thing as overkill".

[RickM]

Jeff, Check out Lowes and US Tractor Supply (if in your area) for compressors as well. Last I saw they had very nice units for the $$$$. BTW I have a dual cylinder, 2 stage, 60 gallon, 13.5 @ 90psi compressor and I would consider that a starting point for a blaster of your size.

[Jeff Hail]

I have been around compressors all my life. I have seen good and bad. I have bought and regretted because I did not do my homework. I sold those after learning a lot.

First thing to look for is the duty rating. Choose a 100% continuous duty model and you will not regret it especially if you are running a media blaster and high cfm airtools. Blasters are air pigs. Buy the best you can afford. A 60 or 80 gallon tank is ideal for heavy home use.

A hint that compressor companies do not want you to know. 2 stage models are not always the best. 2 stage pumps are great if you are running high pressures over 125 psi or a shop full of techs. 99% or automotive air tools operate at 90psi or less. Cubic feet per minute delivery of the pump is the most important thing to look for. Tank size is second as it is just a storage pond for air.

Stay away from the Home improvement store models. Yes some models are made by famous manufacturers label for the chain but are not always
the same and most of the time lacking in quality. Most are not rated for continuous duty either. Stay away from aluminum heads as they have warpage issues with continuous use. 2 cylinder Iron pump and head are the way to go.

[Porsche_monkey]

I have the same thing. With a 25HP 110 PSI compressor. It keeps up.

[Danny_Ocean]

Wherever you decide to save money, do not by a cheap respirator. Your lungs are the most expensive part of this set-up.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Excellent advice.

[Mitch Leland]

I have the same unit which I purchased for restoring an aircraft tug. I used 80 grit plaster sand for the steel members. The 80 grit sand either had moisture in it or debris because it kept clogging up. It's messy so you need to take it to an area where you don't mind having the spent media piled up. I don't know if you can recycle the media once you've used it. If you can't then using a high quality media can become expensive. I used it once, it was a hassle using it, I would sell it cheap... I think cheaper and better take the parts to a professional.

[RickM]

Since we're on the subject of media blasting, a two stage is what you would want as it's designed to deliver cooler, drier air. Since we're on the slippery slope you may as well consider an air dryer. You want lots of dry CFM.

If you know what to look for a good unit can be found at the places I mentioned.

This from a previous thread:

"FWIW, CH makes different grades of compressors. Their Iron Force series... is a pretty decent machine.

..... If going for a cast iron cylinder type unit make sure it's solid cast iron and not sleeved....or another material.

Unfortunately the motors can vary in quality and getting info can be tough. Look at the amp consumption on the motor. If two motors are rated at the same HP then the one with the higher AMP rating is likely closer to the claim. Does the motor have solid copper windings? Bushings or bearings?

Other features to look for:

- Lower running compressor. The lower the rpm requirement the better. (noise and heat)

- Pressure unloader- restarts are easier on the motor, starter and electrical system.

- Look for ceramic or SS disc valves as opposed to "reed' valves "


Posted by CarreraDan on same thread:

"The good news is that I talked to the tool vendor at Lowe's today (same one we had at Home Depot) and the Kobalts are made for Lowe's by ABAC American who make Bel Aire, etc. Also, if you have any problems during the warranty period they will pay to get yours picked up and a new unit sent out--I don't know if I believe this 100%, I would think they would make small repairs if needed. I think this is one of the best units in my price range (around $500 to $600)."

[Dennis Kalma]

I just bought a sandblasting cabinet...one of the Chinese knock offs so I need to make sure I don't get lead poisoning.....

Anyway, I have a good Speedaire 3 hp compressor, 230 volt, 7.6 cfm at 100psi....and it is not enough for continuous use.

I am thinking of adding an inexpensive compressor, maybe even one of the little Home Despot ones and putting it in parallel to the Speedaire. Idea is to get another3 or 4 cfm plus have a smaller system to keep my air system filled without firing up the big boy....

Also watch your hose lengths and sizes, you can take a lot of air delivery out of the system with long hoses and too many fittings.....

Dennis

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Some good info here:

Need recommendation on blast cabinet


Thanks Milt! (bead blasting thread)

[Zeke]

I think I'd back up on the blaster unit and go smaller. I have gotten by with a lot less so far. The comment about the medium building up is spot on. Even a small outdoors project is a hideous mess. Anything you can get in a cabinet, great. Anything you can transport to a blasting service, better. For nooks an crannies in the chassis, well, dig in.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

You may also want to consider some good old fashioned elbow grease:

Project 73 911 R/RS -- Week 3


I'm doing the same with my 69E (if I ever find time), especially noting that media gets EVERYWHERE, and POR15 will love any residual rust.

Builds great shoulders.

[Dixie]

Just don't use sand to strip those panels! Many, many moons ago a freind and I stripped a '57 Nomad with a sand blaster. When we got done there was no rust. Nor was there a straight panel left. And the panels were all work hardened. Ultimately the body went to the crusher.

[Porsche-O-Phile]

A lot of that is controlling heat and keeping the gun moving. If you linger, yes, you're going to get heat build-up and distortion.