Project SC Cabriolet -- Return Fuel Line Fitting

1982911SCTarga · 07:04 AM

I'm in the process of getting ready to drop the engine and transmission on my '83 cabriolet as part of an overall inspection, top-side re-seal and cleanup (of the engine/tranny and engine bay).

I'm ready to go with the exception of one return fuel line fitting. This is a joint that connects a rubber fuel line section to one of the long hard lines behind the fuel filter and fuel accumulator. The hard-line section has a 17 mm hex fitting and the rubber section uses an 11 mm fitting that can only take a wrench in one of two ways (if you've been there, you know what I mean).

Anyway, over the past three days, I've been squirting this fitting with Kroil and periodically giving it a tug. The trouble is, it's difficult to get any amount of decent leverage on the two wrenches to get the fitting to break loose.

Where do I go from here? Should I cut the rubber section in the middle and use a proper barbed splice and appropriate fuel injection hose clamps? I can't see the dynamic changing with this stuck fitting. Thoughts?

Funny thing, the one item I feared would kick my @ss in this -- loosening the hard oil line below -- was easy. Go figure.

Brian

trconway · 10-08-2007, 07:12 AM

I had to cut a fuel line when removing my engine. I failed to take into account
the amount of pressure in the line and got a nice gasoline shower. Sorry I can't be more specific about which line it was but it was at the top left of the engine compartment. What do you mean when you say a "proper barbed splice?"

Tom

1982911SCTarga · 07:29 AM

Tom, "proper" refers to my cutting the rubber section of the fuel line at the midway point and on reassembly, using a barbed steel or brass mending splice of the correct inside diameter, along with the correct fuel line hose clamps (the type that don't dig into the hose). These connections have to hold up to 100 PSI pressure.

I'd like to avoid that if possible, but I'm not seeing a lot of alternatives. This fitting is tight.

Brian

Tim Hancock · 10-08-2007, 07:42 AM

I use a torch to loosen stubborn threaded connections

....... On second thought, maybe you might not want to use it on THAT fitting

Sounds like you need to enlist the aid of some homegrown leverage on those wrenches (piece of pipe).

Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?..... Hell no, now get back in there and use some serious "applied pressure".

1982911SCTarga · 10-08-2007, 08:17 AM

OK, I won't give up, Blutarsky.

However, it's going to take some creative fabrication to get in there to put more leverage on the 11 mm wrench and fitting. This thing is in the extreme left corner of the engine bay just below the cruise control servo.

I'm donning my leather gloves and goggles for this adventure -- just on the off chance that I have seriously applied force with disastrous consequences.

Let's just say, for the sake of argument, that a mechanic in an hourly production shop sees my situation. The mechanic would simply cut the rubber line and not screw around, right?

Brian

trconway · 10-08-2007, 09:16 AM

For a mechanic in a shop, or I should say the owner, time is money!

What is a barbed steel or brass mending splice? I am not familiar with that.

Tom

Tim Hancock · 10-08-2007, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1982911SCTarga

OK, I won't give up, Blutarsky.

Let's just say, for the sake of argument, that a mechanic in an hourly production shop sees my situation. The mechanic would simply cut the rubber line and not screw around, right?

Brian

He would probably order and charge you for replacing the entire fuel line with a new one from Porsche after he cut the old one out.

Tim Hancock · 10-08-2007, 11:34 AM

Brian, can you simply remove the line at it's other end. Once the engine is dropped you could then get at the b@stard fitting better?

1982911SCTarga · 10-08-2007, 12:38 PM

Tim, the other-end fitting is behind and below most of the injection lines, so it's even more innacessible than the b@stard fitting.

I just saw the replacement line is $46.25, part no. 911-356-089-01-OEM.

I'll suss my situation out further when I get home. It's just a matter of figuring a way to get sufficient leverage onto the 11 mm wrench. That one has to turn while the 17 mm fitting stays put (or else you put a nice twist into the hard line).

Stay tuned.

Brian

47silver · 47silver's Garage

the barbed fitting may cause a higher pressure drop than the fuel pumps wants to see. So unless it is line diameter size, i would not put it into the line.

1982911SCTarga · 10-08-2007, 05:16 PM

Here's a pic of the fuel line joint I've been talking about. It still isn't budging, so no joy.

Brian

47silver · 47silver's Garage

would this work on the smaller side?

Jeff Alton · 10-08-2007, 06:00 PM

You can get a flare wrench on the big one, but no the 11mm one which sucks......

Try your favourite penetrant for a couple of days and try again.

Cheers

Tim Hancock · 10-09-2007, 03:39 AM

Brian, can you index the 11mm CCW 60 degrees, then use a pair of channel locks to squeeze the two wrenches together to break it loose? It looks like you have decent wrenches and have not rounded the fittings. You just need to get some muscle on those wrenches somehow.

beamonk · 10-09-2007, 04:23 AM

They are usually not that tight. Are you turning the right direction, righty tighty? I always relpace my lines when in there. I get hight quality MBZ or BMW line in bulk from my friend and use it. Those lines see a good deal of heat, water etc. The kroill should have had an affect by now.

1982911SCTarga · 10-09-2007, 04:23 AM

Tim, good idea on the Channel Locks. I'll try that. I had already thought about the crow's foot idea -- too bad my set goes 10, 12, 13 and so on (skipping the crucial 11 altogether).

I could weld up my own crow's foot extension by cutting up an old 11 mm wrench. Or I could cut the line, get everything apart after the drop when I've got room to work in the engine bay and bill myself $46.25 for a new section of line.

If you look in my photo, you'll see an identical fitting in the foreground -- it's tighter than a tick as well. In that situation, I could work around that fitting because I didn't need to loosen it. These flare fuel fittings mate for frickin' life.

Brian

1982911SCTarga · 10-09-2007, 04:39 AM

Quote:

They are usually not that tight. Are you turning the right direction, righty tighty?

Yes.

Brian

1982911SCTarga · 10-09-2007, 03:58 PM

Success! I got all shadetree on this fitting sumbi@#h. Two minutes with the welder and I had combined a broken 15 mm 3/8 socket (now I know why I kept that) and a throw-away 11 mm wrench from a set of cheap-o garage sale wrenches to create a tool only Tim Hancock can appreciate:

Then, using a 6-inch impact extension and a 1/2-inch adapter to get my big ratchet on there, I was in business. I carefully blocked up the 17 mm wrench on the other side of the fitting and started pulling .... then wham!

That bastard fitting broke loose with some substantial force, banging my knuckles into the rear relay panel (should have worn my welding gloves). The result:

See that corrosion on the end? No amount of Kroil or other penetrant was ever going to get in there to help out.

It's Miller time.

Brian

scottbooth · 10-09-2007, 07:26 PM

nice hack...

Tim Hancock · 10-10-2007, 02:57 AM

I call foul! I am missing a welded up wrench just like that from my tool box!

Most excellent Brian!