Clutch to the board (floor that is)

[oneblueyedog]

I replaced my clutch cable yesterday. I was having to hit the floor board to get it to go in gear in 1st and R. before. We'll I noticed that the stop on the board was missing its rubber bumper. I found it in the footwell and put it back on.

Now I have to still hit the board (bumper stop now), the Stop is all the way to the top. The Clutch is adjusted to 1MM (Followed Bently manual). I have less travel till engagement of the clutch. Maybe 1/2 "off the board.

What does this prob point to? Pressure plate sprung out from the stop not having a rubber bumper?

I've got 40Kmi on this Sachs Sport clutch Kit.

I have a feeling that it's engine drop time again.

[oneblueyedog]

Drove it today for a short run. The clutch engages instantly off the board. I think less than 1/2 inch. No grinding into gears except for first if going over 5mph.

I just don't think there's enough travel.

Is this fork trouble? Does the fork pull the TO bearing or push it in, to disengage?

It pulls like an OX with no clutch slipping. I just sense something is gonna go.

Thanks for any help.

[Walt Fricke]

Forget the manuals. Adjust your clutch so you get the pedal to engage/disengage about where you want it.

Shorten the cable up front by screwing the clevis in some more. If that isn't enough, screw some more. At some point the threaded end will stick too far through the clevis and bump into the lever arm.

If still not enough, adjust things back at the tranny. Ultimately you can put both washers on the front side of the slot, and engage the rear cable nut (really, the nut on the tube) with just a few threads.

Last thing to mess with is the bolt that transmits the force from the long arm to the short arm. All you really need there is a little bit of play so you are guaranteed that the throwout fork isn't pressing on the TOB when the clutch is engaged.

I can't imagine the lack of the rubber bump stop causing any trouble. Certainly not throwing things out of adjustment.

Walt Fricke

[oneblueyedog]

Sounds like a good thing to try. All I want is a tad more travel. I have plenty of threads on the underside. Thanks!

[Gunter]

I assume it's an SC?
Like Walt says and:
Don't forget to check the total travel: 25mm (1")
A picture of the location of the small arm vs the rest would give an indication of how much the disc lining has worn.

[oneblueyedog]

Here's a pic of the small arm relation. I removed it to see if the large one was free and it was fine. I broke the circlip though ( I used criclip pliers?)

I studied the diagrams and see that the TO bearing pulls the pressure plate back so I guess when the disk is worn (flywheel too) the pedal has more to pull thus you have to push down more.

Sorry for the crummy photo. I don't have my Mac so I can't photo enhance it.

Thanks

[Gunter]

[QUOTE=oneblueyedog;3534771]
I studied the diagrams and see that the TO bearing pulls the pressure plate back so I guess when the disk is worn (flywheel too) the pedal has more to pull thus you have to push down more.

Worn lining on the disk changes the position of the small lever slightly but you can make up for that by adjusting the cable on both ends if necessary.
Do you get the total 25mm travel per Bentley?
Do you get the distinct help from the C-spring when you press the pedal about 1/3?

[Walt Fricke]

Yes - these large changes are not apt to be due to wear, which is slow and incremental. I have had one clutch disk wear to the point of not gripping. Pedal worked fine, but when shifting into 5th on the highway it would slip a bit and then hold. Felt like I had an old automatic (revs increase more than car speeds up, then settle down when I back off, and hold thereafter).

Besides, wear moves the short arm toward the rear, which is like moving the long arm that direction, which is like making your cable shorter. Wear will raise the pedal release point, not lower it.

Walt Fricke

[oneblueyedog]

I'm going to put the cable back on and check for travel. All of this jogs my memory that when I did the rebuild, I had the flywheel refaced. When I got it back he said it was in tolerance but more near the No Go limit. Maybe disk wear and the flywheel not being as thick contributed to 40k wear.

I went through some treads about disks and flywheels last night and found good info too.

Something is not right. I'm going to drop the engine and find out. After the travel measurement though.

I'm going to check the pedal cluster out more closely too before dropping.

[RWebb]

- might be a way to measure the flywheel by pulling the starter & going thru that hole. The specs for min. thickness & etc. are in Bentley.

Good luck.

[1982911SCTarga]

might be a way to measure the flywheel by pulling the starter & going thru that hole

All that opening is going to provide is a look at the ring gear and pressure plate. Some disassembly is required to measure the flywheel for wear.

Brian

[RWebb]

good point - I wasn't thinking too clearly, was i