Clutch Not Disengaging

[gregwils]

I purchased my first porsche, an '86, this summer with 86k miles. I'm getting acquainted with the car, but don't have other 911's to compare.

The car has been tough to shift, so I replaced the shifter and coupler bushings. Those improvements did seem to improve things. As I have become more acquainted with the car, I came to the conclusion that my clutch seemed to engage really low off the floor board, almost the instant the pedal was released, the car started to move. Plus, unless the clutch pedal was mashed into the floorboard, it would grind going into any gear.

After a bunch of searches, I came the conclusion that the clutch wasn't completely disengaging.

The prior owner had recently put in a new cable, so I thought I would check the adjustment. Not surprising, it was out of spec. I adjusted the clutch at the transmission according the 101 projects, but now the clutch pedal doesn't want to return completely unless you rapidly remove your foot and I can't get it into any gear - worse than before - without grinding.

I looked at the clutch cable at the clutch pedal (clevis) to see how far the cable was screwed into the clevis pin. It seemed to be quite a bit over wayne's recommended .8 inch listed in the book. Would bringing this closer to spec remove the slack that would let the clutch completely engage? It doesn't seem to me that there is any other place to take slack out of the cable.

Thanks.

[Oh Haha]

It sounds more like the clutch cable needs adjustment where it attaches to the trans housing. Meaning, the cable housing with the two nuts. You should be able to take up the slack at that point rather than messing with the clevis. Did you measure the total cable travel at the attachment point on the trans?

[gregwils]

Wayne – thanks for the reply. I thought about it further and came to the same conclusion, that I can take up the slack at the trans. I haven't had a chance to measure the full travel, but will do so next.

I have a follow-up question about the gap settings at the trans. I can move the clutch arm with my hand in and out of what feels like a final snap in, and it arm will sit just before the snap in point unless I move it back with my hand. I am basically snapping it in with my hand.

My question is where should the arm be located when I set the gap – snapped in (or all the way toward the rear of the car)? I'm not sure there is enough clutch left to get the gap set correctly if the answer is 'snapped in'. Also, does the fact that it will not necessarily snap in on its own indicate a weak omega spring?

Thanks again.

[Oh Haha]

Strange. Anyway you could post a pic of the transmission bottom. I am wondering if your omega spring isn't "sprung" into the correct position causing this problem. It should almost touch the DS heat exchanger when installed correctly. You can see a portion of the HE indented for this purpose. Disconnect the clutch cable before getting the clutch arm and omega spring into place.

[gregwils]

Wayne - My omega spring was close to the HE, so I adjusted the slack out of the cable which fixed the issue with the pedal. The adjustment didn't seem to alter the gap on the shift arm. I checked the travel with my wife in the driver's seat (only time) and it was correct or very, very close.

I just got back from a test spin. The car shift easier, probably because the clutch is fully disengaged. The clutch also seems lighter to me, not sure if it is or I am getting use to it, but if feels lighter.

Anyway, I am good to go. Thanks for comments. It really does help.