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Location: Austin
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stranded on the road no start
I was driving at about 3k and the car simply died. Happened this am but restarted almost immed. I adjusted the timing Sunday and had it too advanced. Test drive had the power die off at 5k. So I put it back to how it was. Other conditions: adjusted clutch, first cold day in Austin, cold start has been bad for a while. I checked the popoff and its not hanging up. Waiting for the tow home while I type. Any ideas greatly appreciated ESP if I avoid the tow. Jack
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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I think we should all carry something to be able to test spark without assistance. I helps if you know which side the issue is, fuel or ignition. Maybe carry a spare rotor. There's not a lot you can do along the side of the road. If you had a DME relay, that's one you can do anywhere.
Have you lifted the air flow gizmo? |
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yeah. I've only heard the fuel once when lifting that elbo and it screamed. This time it sounded more fizzy airy. But maybe its louder. I've got about an eigth of a tank of gas, 40 miles left by the odometer. If only.
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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Sounds just like what happened to my car (fortunately on my driveway) - sudden stop of the engine. Waited a few minutes, started up fine, ran 5 minutes then suddenly stopped. Turns out it is the fuel pump.
With ignition on, lift the air meter plate - if you don't hear it buzzing, it may be dead. Also, jumper the relay (pin 87A to pin 30) and with ignition on it should buzz if working. Mine does intermittently, and when making noise it's loud and "labored". New pump coming soon.....
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Update.
The fuel is hitting the injectors loudly--fuel pump is buzzing. No spark, though. Onward to other ideas.
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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bump.
I've been searching for the easy/safe/accurate method to check my coil and the only thing I found was to pull out the wire at the distributor, hold it, and ground it while cranking. Is this safe enough? tia. Jack
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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Quote: "Is this safe enough?'
___________________ Be certain you use an insulated pair of pliers (or something) to hold the wire about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from metal. Watch for a good spark. (NOT your bare fingers!) Ouch! ![]()
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Don't fear the reaper. |
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Great, thanks.
If you don't hear from me by tomorrow, you'll know I either didn't take your advice or that it wasn't "safe enough". I'm damn close to ordering an MSD and coil anyway--Thank you. Jack
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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I've had a similar thing happen twice on my car......'73 with a 3.0L transplant.
The cause in both of my cases was the wiring at the fuse box that feeds power to the firing system. The first time was right after a restoration where the mechanic had disabled the firing system (CD box, etc) at the fuse box by disconnecting the wire there so the car couldn't be started but power could be supplied to accesories for testing. He hooked the wire back to the fuse box but didn't tighten the screw enough and the wire slipped back out causing the car to die. The second instance occured with similar symptoms....I checked the wiring at the fuse box and found the screw was tight but this time, whitish green chalky corrosion had built up in the wire......I wiggled the wire to clear the corrosion off/out of it and the car started back up immediately. |
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I make sure I carry a coil, rotor and dist cap with me at all times (in addition to DME relay and a HOST of other stuff....nice travel kit,..heavy and full of good stuff!!
BTW: you'll grab that coil wire only once,..that's a guarantee. NOT fun......use insulated tools to hold it... Good luck!!
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Thanks about holding the coil wire with insulated tools/glove. I tend to not like learning lessons the hard way, which I would have done had I not asked.
I did check power to the cdi and was getting 12 volts, so I assume that situation is ok--I get the whine on ignition, too. Ordered an msd + coil today. I figure if one or both is the problem, may as well upgrade at the same time. I am suspicious that the alternator might have wigged out something--I feel like my VR is blown again after just a couple of months. Jack
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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***Update** No spark at the coil. Pulled the ignition wire from the distributor, held it about 1/2 inch from metal, cranked the ignition, no spark. Note that I wore one of those rubber/kevlar oven gloves holding pliers.
I've ordered and MSD and the coil, so I should be covered. Question for you all: Since I don't believe in coincidences, could my timing being about 5-10 degrees too advanced at total advance have blitzed the coil? I can't imagine this being the case but..I don't believe in coincidences. Jack
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Warren Hall (Early S Man), 1950 - 2008 ------------------------------------ 2006 Tri D675 Scorched Yellow 2006 Ducati Sport Classic mono SOLD 1979 SCWDP #0020 Talbot Yellow SOLD |
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