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			I managed to strip a head bolt trying to get the heat exchangers off, I tried to remove it with no luck, is there a trick to removing this or does it get expensive from here?
		 
		
	
		
	
			
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			I am confused.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			There are no head bolts, only head studs and barrel nuts holding the heads to the case. On the heat exchanger side of the head, there are also studs/nuts assembly. So, which ones did you strip? 
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	Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851  | 
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			Headbolt = engine drop...can be expensive 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	  Exhaust stud = in situ... not expensive   Cheers, Mike "All's well that ends"  | 
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				83 3.0 Stripped head bolt
			 
			
			This would be a head stud on the heat exchanger side. Thanks.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			That is easier. If it still sticks out, you heat it up with a MAP gas torch, grab it with a vice grip, and turn it to remove it.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			If it breaks, then you have to drill it with a jig. 
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	Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851  | 
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			I have a question related to the head studs (where the heat exchangers bolt to) ... 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			My oil return tubes have been leaking for years. Not a big deal, usually a few drops of oil onto the heat exchangers. I was planning to replace the oil return tubes on the next rainy weekend. Yet, after reading Wayne's book, I am pretty scared to remove my heat exchangers (to get to the return tubes) in fear I may strip or damage one of the heat exchanger studs. .....curious how fragile these studs are? How common it is for them to break? 
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	1977 930 Turbo  | 
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		  Hi, these studs at 5/16" (m8) diameter are pretty small and over the years go through a lot of heating and cooling cycles out in all weathers. This means that they are almost certainly rusted and cooked along with the nuts. Soak them in PB Blaster or the likes, for a few days before trying to undo the nuts. I find that delicately tightening and then loosing the nuts works but I still average 1 broken stud per engine.Cheers, Mike  | 
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			if you heat each one red with oxy/acet, you usually don't break any. the allen nuts need to cool to a dull red before trying to turn then or they will be too soft and prone to round out the centers with the wrench.
		 
		
	
		
	
			
			
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			I find working on exhaust hardware on 930s to be the most aggravating of all. Last time I removed a set of HEs on one, it involved a really big cold chisel and ball peen hammer, and a lot of swearing. The hardware was so corroded that no wrench would grab 'em, they just crumbled (54k garage queen, too). However, do you need to bother? Installing a set of return tubes with HEs in place is completely doable. Tricky, but doable.  
		
	
		
	
			
			
				
					Pssst, I will tell you a secret: hose clamps. Sssshh, don't tell anyone. 
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