Torsion Bar Problem, or maybe something else

[squelch]

Gunter,

- I did install the bumpsteer kit, but not the turbo tie rods. Good results.
- Do you know how to convert 0.34* to inches to confirm 1/8" of front toe?
- I do intend to address the right rear camber and rear toe.
- Any good method for measuring front caster? Everything I have read indicates that it can not be done by the "do it yourselfer".

Thanks,
Chuck

[Gunter]

To be clear on the front Toe: That's 1/16" per side, 1/8" total.
Don't know how to convert because the shop gave the Toe setting in inches for me.
As for the Caster: It's basically non-adjustable but you could try and move the whole strut forward ~1/4" on top.
You'll need to take the weight off by lifting the car up and let the strut hang loose.
Scribe the position of the top plate, open the 3 Allen socket bolts and push straight forward, there is very little play in the holes.
Be careful not to change the camber settings.

[flat6pilot]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but just a few dumb question(s) that I couldn't find elsewhere.

I'm replacing my front (and eventually rear) torsion bars with Glen Sanders hollow bars.

Is removing the front bars as simple as removing the back cover (height adjustment piece) and sliding it out? Is there other pieces that need to come off to be out of the way? (I understand it could be stuck too and may need to remove the front cover to push out)

Also, when I put the new one in, is there a certain way it has to be indexed? I noticed a little "x" on one end of the bars. Is that what needs to be "up" when they go back in?

Thanks guys...

(great thread BTW)

[sig_a]

flat6pilot

First thing is to raise your car at 4 corners well away from suspension interference.

For front, remove adjuster cap and grab hold of the torsion bar splines and pull straight back. An insulated spark plug wire removal tool will fit over the spline end might help. Don't know for sure, but I bet having to knock the bars out from the other end is rare. If they are stuck that badly, I'd be tempted to try PB Blaster first.

Front Sander bars have an equal number (46?) of splines at both ends. And they are not pre stressed, so no left or right. You simply coat the complete bar (water resistance) with grease and engage/insert with the stamped end at the adjustment cap end as an option. Some future owner may want to identify the size of the bar without complete removal.

Following the references in Bentley Manual and references on this site should get you thru successfully. Fine tuning ride height comes after installation. This project will be complete when the car is at the ride height you want, and the adjuster caps are in place equally centered within their mounts. They may not be centered exactly, but they should be close. Good luck.

[richde]

Wow, I'm new here but I'm surprised in the lack of stickies in this forum. It's not that there's a lack of technical knowledge here, but it's difficult to find at times. I wouldn't even want to attempt to search for "alignment."

I currently have a Subaru and became accustomed to information being easier to find.

Here's what I found on NASIOC about alignment methods:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1326323
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=645484
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=627490

[Gunter]

flat6pilot:
Get the Bentley SC Repair Manual and read/study. There is more to it than you think.
Cheers.

[NathanUK]

This is what you need for accurate castor settings. If you buy the adapter/frame you can then also do the camber.

UK
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=PEG3760

USA
http://advantagewheelalignment.com/camber_gauge.html