Help! Weber plug won't budge

[pope]

I started with a six-sided 17mm socket on it which was unfortunately one size too big and it damaged the nut (which wasn't in the best condition to start with).

I have tried various 16mm tools on it and it will not budge. It's at the point where I think I'll destroy the corners completely.

What should I do? Should I put some WD40?

[dweymer]

Rust penetrant of some type, I like PB blaster, not sure if that is available there. Then a pair of locking vice grip type pliers. The cap is trash already and should be replaced once you get it off.

[jpnovak]

Look at your 16mm socket. The end will be chamfered so that it does not fit down square to the bottom seat of the cap. This means it does not sit all the way down on the nut. You can see the result as the top corners are rounded and the bottom of the cap is sharp. Use a grinding wheel to remove this taper. Next heat up the surrounding carb top. Use penetrating oil as you heat and cool the carb top to shock the cap loose. I suspect it would come right out with an impact wrench after that.

Yes, replace it once you are finished.

[dweymer]

always soooo technical Jamie

[Christien]

Uggh, I had exactly the same problem. Sucks, doesn't it? I almost broke my thumb trying to get it off with vice grips. What Jamie said about the chamfered 16m socket is exactly right - that's how I got mine off. Grind it down and use an impact wrench. Mine was completely destroyed in the process, but the bastard came off eventually. Another suggestion I received was to dremel a slot into the top, so you can use a slot screwdriver to turn it out. That was my next step if the ground socket didn't work, but the socket did work. And yep, you'll have to replace it. At least it's cheap.

[SCrescue]

Just a thought. If the socket you've used is a twelve point, try a six point. Also, Sears sells a nice set of Craftsman sockets for removing rounded nuts & bolts (sorry, I'm at work so no picture to provide), but I doubt they'll work well on soft metal.

[pope]

Thx all for the replies.

I tried six point sockets but indeed both were chamfered. The 12 point ring spanner is also chamfered so that didn't work either. I tried an open end spanner which is not chamfered but as in all cases I stopped torquing when I was getting the feeling that the metal was giving way.

I've put some WD40 on it now. I'll try again in the morning. If it won't budge I'll leave it until I take the carbs out and dismantle them completely. I bet I'll find more parts I'll need to order at the end of that task

Why the hell have they used such a soft metal? Should I replace nuts on the carbs that are in bad condition with normal nuts? Or will these scratch into the carb body when I torque them?

[Christien]

Do you have a grinder to grind the 6 point socket down? That will make a huge difference, because you're effectively doubling the contact of the socket.

WD40 probably won't do much good - try PB Blaster.

I'm not sure why this part is brass either. This was the only problem I had with a complete tear-down of my carbs, and the only part that needed replacing, aside from all the gaskets in the rebuild kit.

[john walker's workshop]

the cap is hollow, so dremelling a slot won't work. if the socket with the ground down face doesn't get it, a small sharp chisel and a hammer usually will. dig the chisel into the TOP edge, not the side and tap lightly with the hammer. you don't want to distort the carb metal, but if you do, lightly dress it with a file. be patient. PMO used to have those.

[WI wide body]

Along with soaking it with some type of penetrant you can try to loosen it with a center punch and hammer if you have room to get a good shot at the corners of the bolt.

If you can, it acts as a sort of impact gun on the threads so that when you do finally try a 6 point socket or vise grip to remove the bolt it might break loose. Sometimes very easily.