Pelican Parts Forums - Refreshing old hardware, keeping it rust-free

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Typically, the platers I use in So. Cal charge a minimum fee of around $50 for a batch treatment - good for about 20-30 lbs. YMMV. Pre-clean all parts and don't include any non-ferrous parts in the mix. They will disappear in the chemical process.

Sherwood

Quote:

Originally Posted by euro911sc (Post 3597025)

When I was an engineer in MA we used these guys a ton:

http://www.globalspec.com/Supplier/profile/AotcoMetalFinishing

They may not do CAD, but I'm pretty sure they did zink... It's an easy drive, right up 93 and over on 128... there may be others nearer to you, but Cambridge is pretty tight and the industrial part is getting smaller every day :( You should not have to mail it all out.

Best regards,

Michael

Thanks Michael, they are about 30 minutes away, I'll give them a call tomorrow. Cambridge industrial, heck MA industrial, is a memory sad to say.

Quote:

Originally Posted by john_cramer (Post 3597228)

Sean,

Black oxide doesn't have ANY corrosion resistance. Sure, you get a uniform black finish, but the corrosion resistance comes from being coated with oil, which also makes things shiny for a while. I know this because I've got a fair amount of experience with the Caswell Black oxide kit: the Studs on an early SWB engine case are all black oxide. And they are all, invariably, rusty. You can re-black them, but make sure you rinse well with water, or you'll get brown rust from the acidity of the solution. And then it won't be period correct. If you want black, you can get black zinc.

I agree with the crowd here, have everything plated in Zinc with a Yellow Chromate Conversion coating. This is what the factory did. Like I said, if you want black, there's even black zinc, or olive drab, or clear (like silver cad). Zinc plating exhibits MUCH higher corrosion resistance than any older-technology treatment.

When you wire wheeled it the plating came off. Now it's a sitting duck for R U S T. Gibbs is an interesting idea, but how would you ever keep every nut and bolt treated while assembled?

If I were you I would get every nut bolt washer and other piece of loose metal you could lay your hands, INVENTORY it like you're OCD and then send it off to the plater. It's amazing what a difference it makes.

Geez John is there anything you don't know! :) thanks for the info on the black oxide, and that I can choose plating colors. because the E is going to be more of a racer interpretation than a Pebble Beach restoration, I like the black, understated look. But I will defer to the plater's opinion on maximum protetection.

As to inventorying, I just picked up an old, old typesetters cabinet on Craig's List, free! I have maybe 2000 compartments to fill.

Will post what I find tomorrow.

Shaun, I might have a castellated nut for you. The project is going well, I'm actually working on it right now.

I vote for yellow zinc as well - I just got a big bucket of parts back and they look pretty good. I glass bead blasted them before I ran them over to the platers to save a bit ont he cost.

Regards,
Andrew M

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1195518216.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by klaucke (Post 3597451)

Shaun, I might have a castellated nut for you. The project is going well, I'm actually working on it right now.

Great, thanks Jonathan, hope your project is going well. I'm not going to plate these, so no rush on it. can't imagine bright gold nuts inside light ivory cookies.

BTW, I forgot to mention (and really should have) that there is no lubricant at all in the cylinders, so if you are spinning it, please throw something in.

nice looking jewelry.

So I've been following these threads and the one thing I'm still unsure of is the best way to go from crusty, rusty, caked-on-greasy to clean enough for the plater.

How do you prepare the stuff for the platers? I can't imagine the hours it would take to bead blast all that stuff.

I've used a rock tumbler with great results, but that takes time, lots of time.

I cleaned mine in a parts washer, followed with Simple Green and ended with Eagle One Mag Cleaner (contains Hydrofluoric Acid). Then off to the platers.

FWIW, I did not pre-clean mine (although they came off a garage queen, and were not that bad). Both the yellow cad and yellow zinc came back looking like the pics above.

If you want to clean lightly rusty parts - toss in a container of coke overnight - Coca Cola does contain some phosphoric acid - just enough to take off surface rust overnight, and not enough to do major damage. You do need to degrease it first.

I am of course assuming the formula for coke is the same worldwide, but on good authority, it is.

After that I would CAD plate it, those boxes of jewels look too good.

We black oxide tooling where I work. In the summer it rusts just from finger contact.

CAD plate and live with the bling.

Called AOTCO.

They don't do small jobs, but they let this fellow Reggie, also an auto enthusiast, come in and use the facilities. He's going to call back.

Shaun, When I had mine done, I went in person and hooked up with a fellow I had talked with over the phone (this was not a huge plating operation) who did it "on the side".

Talked with Reggie, he's the on the side guy. :) Just did some chrome for a an old Ferrari he tells me.

He charges by the hour, $50/hour, everything is hung, no basket/barrel work. figures it will be about $150 if I have everything done.

I'm going to bring 2 batches up next week. What I need done versus everything I have. it will be a true CAD plate.

After talking wtih 2 platers here in MA, I'm going to go with

Texas Precision Plating
3002 Benton Street
Garland, TX 75042
972-4941547

Thanks MyTurbo.

Cleaning everything up this weekend and sending it down. Post Office has a $9 fixed price Priority Mail Box and I think everything I have will fit right in.

I "think" those Priority boxes are limited to 2lbs max (or at least they used to be). Don't know if you'll have that issue, but just FYI.

keith, the Post Office has what they call a Flat Rate Box. It measures 11" X 8.5" X 5.5" and costs $8.95 no matter how much it weighs. Perfect for shipping a pair of calipers BTW.

I went with Texas Precision because they were the only ones who asked if I had any grade 8 or greater bolts and springs, noting that these will have to be baked due to the enbrittlement thing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1196364704.jpg

Shawn - how did this turn out ??

Bob, sadly I haven't sent everything yet. Getting stuff plated is like a disease. It's no longer enough to plate just your nuts and bolts, EVERYTHING that was once shiny and new must be plated. then there's the sorting into types of pieces and then there's yellow CAD vs. silver CAD piles to segregate. and I have a few more pieces to take off the car I discovered just the other day. Sooooooo, I hope to get everything sorted, bagged, labeled and shipped by the end of the year.

Will let you know when it's done.