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Window woes

my right window goes down fine with either the drivers or passengers switch. However, I have noticed that the up opperation has gotten progressively slower and slower to the point that it does not go up any more. I have the panel off and I am trying to figure what's wrong.

I'm not sure what to check or how to get the window back in the up position. I tried pushing up on the window with the inner panel off and the switched in the up position but it would not budge.

What should I do?

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1986 944 Turbo - Guards Red
Old 11-16-2007, 01:48 PM
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direct 12 volts to the window motor.
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:02 PM
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can I do this with it in the car?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
direct 12 volts to the window motor.
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:12 PM
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Yes, pull the switch out of the door panel, becareful not pull all the wires, if you want you can mark them, just in case, the two middle wires go to the motor, put 12 volts to them. doesn't matter which way, one goes up the other goes down
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:19 PM
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Here is a diagram of the switch, which wires go where:

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Old 11-16-2007, 02:27 PM
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B & C are the ones that you need, pull them of the switch, positive to one side, negative to the other, if it does not work, reverse them, if nothing happens, your motor might have gone bad,
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Old 11-16-2007, 02:42 PM
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Well, I checked to see if I have a 12v sorce and I don't - not without a lot of hassel. However could I check the switch with multimeter? If I wanted to do that to eliminate that as a factore which tabs would I test.

I don't really think its the switch though, the window does go down fine, and use to go up really slowly, just now it doesn't go up at all. Can the motor go bad in just on direction?

Also, if the window is stuck in the down position, how can I get it to go up?
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:20 PM
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The switches can go bad. Checking with a multimeter won't tell you much, because the switch works - the window goes up and down. It might be because the switch is border-line.

It can also be a bad ground.

When my passenger window stopped going up and down, I confidently obtained new switches - and when I went to change them, realised the ones in there looked very clean and new...

In my case, it was the motor that stopped working.

Others have had problems with the regulator needing lubrication, adjustment, or the glass binding in the channel.

Here's the explanation for the switch wiring (thanks Ron!):

Power Window Switch schematic
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Old 11-16-2007, 03:50 PM
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Well I checked the continuity of the switch and its fine. But remember my drivers switch is the one I ususally use and it did the same thing as the passenger - easy down, slow up.

How can you tell if the window is binding?

And how can I get the window to go up it the motor is bad?
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:05 PM
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If either switch is bad, the effect can be the same because the current has to go through both. Continuity doesn't prove anything.

Do you have the emergency sunroof crank and the owner's manual? On some cars, this is also used to roll the side windows up.
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:14 PM
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I dont have the crank but I do have the OM. I'll check into what it says. . .


Quote:
Originally Posted by spuggy View Post
Do you have the emergency sunroof crank and the owner's manual? On some cars, this is also used to roll the side windows up.
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:28 PM
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I cant seem to find anything on manually raising the window in the owenrs manual.
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:34 PM
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Don't know if this will apply to your coupe but my targa was slow going up then I noticed when the door was open it went up fine and the same speed as my driver side.

The issue was, the windows edge was rubbing against the targe roll bar trip/seal. I lubed it with SS200 Lube a non-abrassive type and it works fine now. Bonus it made the fade seal look new

Maybe you can take off the window guides to see if the window will go up easily, if so they may need to be lubes due to years of use may have dried them out.

Just my $.02
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:38 PM
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i think i ran across your post earlier today. I tried openning/closing my door but to no avail - the window did not go up.

Is it easy remove the veritical guides?

Ithiought maybe I might have to grease the regulator slides but I cant get the window to go back up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG View Post
Don't know if this will apply to your coupe but my targa was slow going up then I noticed when the door was open it went up fine and the same speed as my driver side.

The issue was, the windows edge was rubbing against the targe roll bar trip/seal. I lubed it with SS200 Lube a non-abrassive type and it works fine now. Bonus it made the fade seal look new

Maybe you can take off the window guides to see if the window will go up easily, if so they may need to be lubes due to years of use may have dried them out.

Just my $.02
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:46 PM
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Opening your Coupe Door is not going to make a difference because the window in inside your door window frame where Targas and Cabs do not. Unfortunately the Bentley guide has no points on this.

I am not sure how to remove the guides. If I may suggest use a silicon based non corrosive spay lube on the side guides (front & back). Becarefull not to over spray so it won't foul up your glass. The try the up/down to see if it improves it.
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Old 11-16-2007, 04:59 PM
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If you have jumper cables you can bring 12 volts closer to your window, two pieces of wire, and you will able to test your motor, try that first, that way you'll know the problem, you can lube things after the window is up.
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Old 11-16-2007, 05:36 PM
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^^^ have to agree with Axiom
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Old 11-16-2007, 05:41 PM
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AHH, good idea. I'll do that. Do I need to have the switch disconnected to do this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
If you have jumper cables you can bring 12 volts closer to your window, two pieces of wire, and you will able to test your motor, try that first, that way you'll know the problem, you can lube things after the window is up.
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:48 PM
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Any car battery is a 12V source. Use that. Gradually slowing to a stop could also mean a worn or frayed wire between the body and door. It's a tight path that part of the loom traverses. It's the passenger side, so check for continuity from power supply all the way through drivers side switch.
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:48 PM
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AHH, good idea. I'll do that. Do I need to have the switch disconnected to do this?

Pull B & C wires out of the switch and test it, if nothing happens, reverse the wires, if nothing happens most likely your motor is death, you can try checking for lose or damaged wires to the motor to see if there is a sign of life

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"EVER SINCE EXCUSES WERE INVENTED, EVERYBODY IS PERFECT"
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Old 11-16-2007, 07:58 PM
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